Scud

Welcome. In addition to the main electrical issue and the engine oil change, I suggest the following: Give it a thorough inspection - maybe even take the wheels off so you can lube everything properly and make sure you have plenty of brake pad left - and that your calipers are working well. Flush brakes (front and rear) and clutch - you want new fluids there. Drain and replace transmission oil and final drive oil - you can decide between the factory recommendation and the Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil that many use instead. Lube the driveshaft - at least the rear if you can't get to the front right away. (the front grease fitting can be difficult to reach). Figuring out how to lube the front of the driveshaft is part of the initiation ritual.

Not a very difficult project at all. It's bolt-on, with the exception of the need to elongate a hole in the sidestand mount. Here's a good thread on installation: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8985 Update re my oil leak: the leak nothing at all to do with the plate or gaskets. My problem was that I failed to secure the breather hose (I had engine out to replace the clutch at same time). It turns out that I wasted time by reinstalling the plate with a sealant.

As I understand it, the transmissions were different starting in 2002. It seems like lengthening the arm on the foot lever would apply to all model/years - but do you know if the internal modifications are also needed in 2002 and later models?

Godzilla: I ate Tokyo. ZZ Top did a custom Cadillac they called Cadzilla - it had a similar plate.

1 N/m is 0.74 lb/ft I use an app on my phone called Converter+ so I can type in the spec in Nm and see it in lb/ft. I think I should just get a metric torque wrench.

All I can see is a map with twisty roads....

Despair: I just recovered from my own self-inflicted oil-leak despair. You'll get there too. Looks like the stable-mates will keep you riding while you sort this out. History: Did you ride the bike before you got it? By that I mean: did it appear to be trouble-free and then this problem just suddenly appeared - or is it possible that this is the reason the PO sold the bike? Color: Scuras are supposed to be dark and stealthy. I think yours suffered deep psychological trauma by being gussied up like a cheerful Coppa Italia. It's like making an introvert dress in pastel florals and go to a baby shower. Simply dreadful... It's acting out against social pressures that go against its nature. Relays: I have seen more than one problem solved by replacing all 5 relays with 5-pin Omrons. It's an inexpensive, and easy thing to do. It also gives peace of mind against future relay failure. Get 5 of these: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND

well... assuming the rider is fully restored, I'm looking forward to see how the bike project goes.

And the bonehead award goes to... Scud for his leading role in failing to put the hose clamp on the breather hose when he put the engine back in. Good news - I just ran 50 miles with lots of time at 5,000 to 7,000 RPM. Not even a single drop of oil on the floor (and only a bit of residue from the mess before came out the bell housing weep hole). Bad news - I burned a lot of time thinking of the worst possible scenarios and re-sealing stuff that was probably not leaking in the first place. (I tried to post 11 Dohs as pennance, but got an error message that I exceeded maximum allowed emoticons) Without this forum, I would not have thought to look at the breather hose. I think I would have gotten about halfway through the engine removal process before I noticed the missing hoseclamp. Thanks. It turned over 13,000 miles this evening - which means I've only put about 5,000 on it in the year-plus I've had it. But it spent about as much time on the lift as on the road. Maybe lucky 13k marks time for a change. Actual mileage remains unknown, since odometer was not working - but I think it has quite a lot more than 13,000. Good times (and a proper assault on the Sierra Nevadas) ahead... Oh - and the clutch is fabulous. It even lost traction at the rear wheel on a downhill, engine braking, downshift (no rear brake applied). Very exciting...

Just start a topic in 24/7 V11. We've had a few project-bike threads and I tried collecting them here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18962 Some forums have a dedicated project section for people who want to document a project and get advice along the way. I've seen some of your other completed projects and would enjoy tagging along as you do a V11.

I have a trouble-free Yuasa in my Scura - and no modifications to wiring, with the exception of an extra ground to the voltage regulator case. For the ground, look behind the seat lock, not the helmet lock. Remove the seat lock (2 allen screws). The ground should be securely attached to the transmission case behind the seat lock. Some have cured the melting fuse problem with a MAXI fuse holder instead of the OEM 30-amp in the fuse block. Docc has some good posts on the issue. I put one in my LeMans as a preventative measure, but didn't get around to putting one in the Scura yet.

Thanks guys, I think all the evidence points to the breather hose. The leak didn't appear when I warmed it up at idle, nor when I rode slowly around the neighborhood (with lots of sloshing back and forth and a few quick starts). The leak only became active when I got the revs up. I have a new breather hose and maybe can install it tonight - if not, it's going to be a couple weeks.

Now that's worthy of starting a dedicated build thread so we can follow along....

Hmm... I found this very useful thread about the same type of leak that plagued Docc for a while. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18243&page=1 Will order in all the appropriate hoses and O-rings to address the non-engine out issues. Since I just had the engine out for the clutch, it makes sense that I may have disturbed things that were not previously leaking.

Pardon the dirty biological humor. Let's be scientific and sanitary now. Step 1: How it's supposed to look under there. (Don't say "underwear" or you will have fallen for the oldest and worst joke ever.) All degreased and blown out with compressed air. Step 2: spray with foot powder, warm it up at idle... no problem... ride around the neighborhood a bit, possibly seeing first signs of seepage... ride it hard for 1/2 mile... and then we have our evidence: And I happened to notice this oil seeping out of the plug on the bell housing, where Czakky stores his used wine corks. It's supposed to be all dry and sanitary in there - and it was when I did the clutch. I'm assuming a bad rear main seal at this point. Has anyone seen this before - and can confirm my diagnosis or suggest an alternative? She's running soooooo good.... I am not looking forward to taking the engine out again.

It seems to me that the fairing is such a good fit for the tank that it must have been part of the original design. Does anyone know the history? Did Moto Guzzi have both faired and unfaired versions designed from the star - and decided to go to market with only the naked Sports first? The fairing on that Greenie looks very similar to the LeMans fairing with the small side-scoops removed. She needs a green belly pan like Lucky Phil's. A set of mirrors would be nice too...

Batman would be proud

Try the parts catalog from "this old tractor", pages G3 and G5 for Marzocchi axle and Ohlins axle: Here's the link to download: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_misc_spare_parts_catalogs___exploded_parts_diagrams___parts_fiche.html

The photos you referenced in post 10 are the same as my Ohlins forks on my 2002 Scura - but the 2002 LeMans came with Marzocchi forks. That suggests that somebody upgraded (good news for you). If the above advice doesn't work, maybe you don't have the correct spacer for the Ohlins. I was just looking at the parts manual to verify that they have different part numbers. I think you would be wise to download a parts manual and compare what you have to the illustrations.

This is for my 2003 LeMans - with the improved paint. The oil return line was still clean, except for the fitting, which obviously had oil flowing to it from above. I think I will have time to clean it really well, and spray the offending area with foot powder before I leave on Thursday. This time, I'll just let it idle till I see the leak start. It's very difficult to see exactly what's going on (and harder to get a picture), because it's all tucked in between headers, crossover, block and transmission. It's the Guzzi's "taint". In one of the threads Marty linked to, FalcoLion said he could get the sump rings for a good price, so I've sent an inquiry.

Good perspective. I'll be away for a couple weeks and really wanted to have it ready for a proper ride on my return. Drain plug is still dry. The engine came out and went back in smoothly for the clutch work - I didn't have any difficulty that would make me think something got damaged. It seems to be weeping out the back between upper ring and block (where the plate goes), and mostly going toward the left - actively dripping when hot and on the sidestand - then stops after sitting a few minutes. I can't see any way that the plate itself could leak, but I think the plate collects some oil on top - so standing oil on top of the plate could reveal a hidden problem like (and I don't want to think about this) a crack in the block. Since problems often relate to the most recently done work or change, maybe I'll try again with the plate removed and see if it still leaks. Plenty of time to think about it.......

Rear wheel spins the same in neutral and in gear with clutch pulled in. It's just that the lever takes more effort than it did before, and it takes a full pull to disengage - unlike my Scura, which takes less effort and disengages with less travel at the lever. I just went for a quick 50-mile loop and missed a couple downshifts when I failed to pull it in all the way. Further update: I installed this sweet black-face thermometer today, which I got from MG Cycle. I can't think of any good reason to have one except it's fun to look at. You know what's not fun to look at? That puddle of oil on the floor. I thought I was going to be alright after a short trip around the block, so I went out and got it properly heated up. Made a mess... The leak is coming from between the block and the sump ring, at the back, under the transmission, where I just installed the Roper Plate. It leaked with dry gaskets, so I cleaned it, used new gaskets and the sealer Pete Roper recommended (ThreeBond 1211) on al four mating surfaces. I carefully torqued every bolt, waited 24 hours and checked torque again. This bike is pissing me off - and it was otherwise soooooo perfect on my little loop. I wanted to go far. To my long list of stuff that was wrong with this bike, I need to add that the upper sump ring has had a too-large bolt forced in for the lower sidestand. I didn't notice that till recently - but that's not where the leak is. I'll probably get a new ring and install that with my next attempt at fixing this leak. Alternatively, I'm going back in time, not buying this bike, and waiting for pristine, low-mileage Nero Corsa. I like working on things - but I like riding much more. This one just reveals a new problem every time I fix a known problem. It didn't leak a drop before.

The clutch is really good. Much firmer than it was before, which I attribute to the new springs. But I have to pull it all the way in to get it to disengage - perhaps some small adjustments will get it to release differently. It hooks up quickly and there's no more slippage. I haven't been on a long ride yet, because I've been fighting that oil leak.

My fender showed up from Italy in a recycled wine box. Very fitting... perhaps a bit telling. It will take a just bit of fuss to fit it - I had to ream out the bracket to allow the shock-mount bolt to pass through - and I upsized the washers to make me feel better about the mount. The belly pan is the easiest thing ever. Add four brackets to the oil pan bolts, screw in four rubber compression fittings. Done. But do protect the leading edge with clear tape. The CF is very sensitive to stone dings. I noticed that after my first couple rides, and have not had any more damage since I put the tape on. http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/en/tuning-moto/tuning-moto-guzzi/v11-1100-sport-daytona-centauro/

Excessive? Who cares? Have at it and keep the stock parts on hand. The powdercoated rider pegs on my LeMans are holding up fine, but I probably haven't put more than a thousand miles on them. I also did the passenger pegs, but they rarely get used. The LeMans is giving me fits... finally fixed the oil pressure problem a while back, discovered a slipping clutch on the very next ride. Replaced clutch, new head gaskets and o-rings (due to leak), and installed Roper Plate at same time... found a bad oil leak on the next ride... hoping to deliver the knock-out punch to the oil leak today... Then I'm going to make her pay for all this trouble. I was unsure about coating the pegs at first, but when I had some excess coating on a few other parts I found it very difficult to remove. I had to get after it with hand files and grinding stones/wire brushes on a Dremel. The stuff if really tough (which made me think coating the rider pegs would be OK). I would swing by your shop and show them the pegs. Maybe they applied too fine a coat.