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Everything posted by Scud
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Yes, the shop manual warns not to leave the rotor and stator separated - or they can de-magnetize. I put them right back on after taking the photo. So... I just got the motor back in, and am moving on to the Roper Plate part of my long day of wrenching. Barring advice to the contrary, I think I will swap stators and clean them with some De-Oxit spray. Parts bike to the rescue!!!
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Just pulled the 2 stators - dang, they are rusty. [url=http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/v11com%20misc%20photos%20posted/LeMans%20Project Assuming I can swap them - does anyone know how or if they should be cleaned? Sorry for the basic questions - never had occasion to get into one of these before.
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Washing soda is sodium carbonate. The guy in this video gives a good demonstration:
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Today's plan was clutch, Roper plate and some other little stuff. Given that I was uncertain about the mileage, I was curious to see the condition of the flywheel. It looks about the same as the flywheel from my 12,000 mile parts bike - no visible signs of wear on the teeth. Clutch bits top to bottom: Parts removed from LeMans and not re-used Parts installed - pressure plate and back plate from parts bike, new discs and intermediate plate. Leftovers from parts bike The clutch plates I removed from the LeMans were thin, but not worn all the way down. However, the springs were MUCH softer than the new springs. I think the clutch might have gone a bit longer if the springs were still strong. Therefore - probably a good idea to replace the springs whenever one does a clutch. Engine is still out and I have a little problem: This tab broke off the stator while I was cleaning up (I left the generator connected when I dropped the motor, there is plenty of wire). But I still have the complete engine from the parts bike - all the fins broke off the rotor when it crashed (the alternator cover was dented in just enough to snap all the fins). The stator seems to be OK. I haven't worked on one of these before - does it seem like I might be able to get one good alternator from these two? Is it OK to swap stators without also changing rotors?
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Thanks Pete, I could have covered it if it was a V11 plate, but it was a Tonti, and I don't have an extra. I sent you an e-mail with shipping address. Here is Kostarica's Tonti plate. The poor thing appears to have been run over in Crosstown Traffic, like Jimi Hendrix sung: "Tire tracks all across your back, I can see you had your fun." I really like the irony of what I assume to be a tire track and how it goes right over the "Tracked *** Insured" promise on the package. Kosta was going to try to get it pressed flat by a machinist - I'm not sure if that will work well enough.
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Got a method of doing something that saves time, money, effort - or improves quality - or is just more fun? Post it up here. I'll start with something I did yesterday in anticipation of getting into my LeMans clutch. The pressure plate, intermediate plate, and starter ring (from my parts bike) all had some mild surface rust - and there was some heavy rust on the exhaust flanges and whatever those semi-circle parts are called that go between the flanges and the pipes. Given that it is morally wrong to re-install rusty parts on motorcycles, the rust had to be removed. I used electrolysis - which only took about 20 minutes of my time (but required overnight work for the battery charger). Here are the parts last evening: And the overnight soak with battery charger Solution: 1 tablespoon washing soda per gallon of water. Negative terminal of battery charger to wires that suspend parts in solution. Positive terminal of battery charger to anode (scrap steel) Here are the parts this morning. No more rust on the parts; it's all clinging to the anode or still in the solution.
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*Polished wrenches for polished things*
Scud replied to docc's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
Well, I wish there was an interesting story - like my grandfather was a shipbuilder in Helsinki and he had it with him when he was captured by Russian soldiers... used it in his daring escape through Europe, where he briefly worked at the Moto Guzzi factory to earn enough money to buy a boat ticket to America... then gave it to me at his death along with instructions to pass it to my heirs... But, the truth is that I either I bought it at a garage sale, or it was in the clutter of a garage/shed of a house I rented in college days (can't recall which). Either way, it's been with me for about 30 years now. It has "influenced" a lot of movement on various cars and motorcycles. On rare occasions it still gets to make contact with wood chisels. Some tools have histories... some are just tools. -
*Polished wrenches for polished things*
Scud replied to docc's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
5 drifts in various diameters for about $8.00 at Harbor Freight. That's a rawhide mallet. Typically used with wood chisels, but I like the feel of it for lots of other things. It's a good axle-tapper. -
*Polished wrenches for polished things*
Scud replied to docc's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
OK, I'll play. Here are the hammers that would be allowed to make Guzzi contact. Along with some hammer accoutrements: a very useful Pit Posse wheel bearing removal tool (bought on recommendation of GStallons) and a set of long drifts that I bought recently to get the races out of the steering head of my BMW. -
Gasket/shipping update: Gaskets are due to arrive at MG Cycle on Monday next week - then they ship to me. I will probably be able to ship the remaining kits by the end of next week, or early the following - all depending on actual delivery date.
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That hole is not intended to be an oil overflow - it is meant to hold parts of the transmission together. If it vibrated out, then everything else becomes suspect. I would replace it immediately, inspect all other similar bolts, and re-torque every single one.
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I'm glad to know the plates are finding their way to their destinations - and getting installed. So far, only one shipping problem: the USPS actually bent one of the plates. Not sure how that gets done in the course of mail-handling, but we'll get it sorted out. Still waiting for the back-order of gaskets before I can ship the balance.
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How to prevent boiling out your rear brake....
Scud replied to Rox Lemans's topic in Technical Topics
I went back and read the section in Total Control about braking. Summary: the faster you go, the less you should use the rear brake. The slower you go, the more you should use the rear brake. He cites the fact that most police use only the rear brake for low-speed precision maneuvers - and many road-racers do not use the rear brake at all. -
Nobody pulled anything. Read it again... it's about what JB said, an honest exchange between fellow enthusiasts. Want a fuel sensor? I still have it - but my beer sensor reads nearly empty.
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Palomar Mountain South Grade today. @LowRyter - inspired? Come visit.
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I'm looking for a set of non-crossover headers to install on my LeMans. I previously had the crossovers welded closed, but I'm not thrilled with the appearance. What I have to sell or trade: one 2002 RH header in good shape - this has the smooth, one-piece clamp. A pair of early sport headers in good shape (but some surface rust) - these have the finned clamps that require two inner bits. What I want to buy (or receive in trade): LH header to match the 2002 RH OR a pair of headers like the 2002 example I estimate the value of one header at $50. Buy/sell/trade - can anyone help? Edit - I found a pair of used headers, so the ones in the picture are now for sale only.
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You relocated the voltage regulator? That seems like it would be quite an involved project. What's the problem with the current location - or the benefit of the new location?
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Let's have another Scura rally, then we can compare and see what's going on. This time we can actually ride Scuras instead of our LeManseseses (what is the correct plural form of LeMans?) You need to get it over 6,000 RPM in all the other gears - in the name of "research."
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Yes - that's exactly right. LOL
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Just finished packing up everything I could - until I ran out of upper sump gaskets. As soon as I receive the remaining gaskets I'll ship the rest. The numbers are working out as expected. Thank-you all for trusting me with your money in advance so I could consolidate it, get it to Pete, and get this project rolling. I made a donation of €130 (a bit more than US$150) to the forum. I still have a few plates available, and will get gaskets to make them into kits on the same terms. Send me a PM if you want one. I am hoping for a very special thing along with the gasket shipment... Footgoose is hoping too... but we don't want to jinx it... shhhhh....
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ANSWERED V11 for sale online/ Craigslist and all others
Scud replied to chamberlin's topic in 24/7 V11
That's a clean Greenie for $3,800 - only a few hours away from Las Vegas. I hereby offer to ride it from San Francisco to Las Vegas for $700 (just to help everyone get the price they want). I'll even buy my own plane ticket to SF. I promise not to put more than 2,000 miles on it. -
The guys at MG counseled me through getting all the right parts and choosing between various friction materials and options for the intermediate plate. I don't know about resurfacing needs... still on the learning curve. But (keeping with the topic of this thread) it does seem that the twin-plates go for many miles - depending, of course on riding style. My first indication of a problem was that I noticed the revs shoot up a bit at application of throttle at high speed - with no corresponding increase in MPH - thus indicating clutch slip. I've ridden it a bit since - and on my last ride, I got some clutch slip from a standing start, which I consider dangerous. So now she's having a time-out for bad behavior. I probably did about 1,000 miles between first noticing the problem and when it got to the point I considered it serious. Between those points, I had already ordered the parts. I think Docc mentioned that he is planning to replace his flywheel after breaking the 100,000 mile mark. That's when it gets expensive - and also a big part of why the single to dual disc conversions are expensive. That conversion requires a different flywheel.
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Go Docc!!! Dedicate yourself to turning over 100,000 miles this weekend. What could possibly be more important than that? Tom - I am about the replace the clutch on my LeMans, which has unknown miles. I just got all the parts in from MG cycle for a bit over $200: 2 plates, intermediate plate, new springs, and some bolts. Also bought their alignment tool. There a several threads documenting the process. I think my favorites are the people who do it in their living room - that would make it more fun.
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Most of the gaskets arrived today. While getting ready to ship some kits, I spotted a book on the shelf with a title that seemed fitting: Complexity and Group Processes. I'm sending PMs with tracking numbers as I ship them. Got a few done tonight for shipment tomorrow. Will do another batch tomorrow and keep at it till I run out of gaskets.
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If you're looking for the exhaust hangers - the ones that attach to subframe and hold the passenger pegs - I have a set like this one on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTO-GUZZI-03-V11-NAKED-OEM-LEFT-REAR-FOOTPEG-BRACKET-2002-V-11-FOOT-PEG-/391092270909?hash=item5b0eea773d:g:rCYAAOSwEppUQC5b&vxp=mtr They are from my parts bike, but I recently had them powder-coated black. Send me PM if that's what you're looking for - then I'll dig 'em out and get a picture.