Scud

I'm not having a problem with the rear brake - but recently saw Rox lose his on a long, steep downhill, and Todd said he loses his all the time. For me this is just a preventative thought, because I ride of a lot long, steep roads. My question is also partly prompted by the fact that I have an unopened bottle of Motul 5.1 and nothing to use it on (it was specified for the KTM 950 that I no longer have). Re Cost: I recently bought 365ml of Mopar DOT 4 at Pep Boys for about $9.00 (but same size other brands of fluid can be had for maybe $6.00) 500ml bottle of Motul DOT 5.1 is on Amazon for $11.00-$12.00 Cost/ml doesn't appear to be a significant factor.

I was not aware of the Chevy inline 5 - but that's longitudinally mounted for rear wheel drive. I thought Volvo was alone in a transverse-mounted engine (for front or all-wheel drive). I didn't know about the 3-popper in the Smarty either - that must be less common than either of the inline 5s. But I do think the K75 BMW may be a category unto itself. I like the weirdness of that motor. The little brick is growing on me - although my wife bought a Triumph T-shirt for herself yesterday. She thinks a green Triumph Bonnie would be cute and says maybe she'd learn to ride it.

Based on some recent threads about rear brake fade, I got wondering about brake fluid. I've understood that DOT 3 and 4 are similar, but that DOT 4 has a higher boiling point, and I knew not to mix the DOT 5 (silicone) with it. But I never understood what the DOT 5.1 fluid was for. According to this Wikipedia page, 5.1 can be used to replace DOT 4 and it has a 30-degree Celsius (45F) higher boiling point. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid Obviously, water-saturated brake fluid boils more easily (and the data in the table at the above link are compelling). "Wet" DOT 4 fluid boiling point is about 80-degrees Celsius lower than non-saturated fluid. Also obviously, brake fluid should be flushed periodically. But not so obvious to me: Is there any reason why we should not run DOT 5.1 in our bikes? Has anybody used DOT 5.1 in a V11?

True. I already posted that info in great detail in another thread (pressure vs flow). I apologize for bifurcating my problem. It's going to be about a week till I can work on it again - will post results then. Fingers-crossed that I can close-out both threads with a "problem-solved" message.

A nice looking BMW K series? Sorry, not possible! Wait, but the motor is shaped almost exactly like your Volvo! Touche. Least common mass-produced engine configurations: Motorcycle - BMW horizontal inline 3 cylinder Car - Volvo transverse inline 5 cylinder

Not good. That's a sign of loose bearings. Does sound like the PRV is ok, though.. I'm hoping it is a sign that an important part of the gasket was missing - and that the bearings still have some life in them. Stay tuned for parts delivery, reassembly, and testing.

Neither MG Cycle nor Harpers carry the rod or the bushings. However, I happened to talk with Curtis Harper when I called. He said they are currently working with their machinist to create a new rod that will will use replaceable bushings. I'm going to wait for that.

A customer goes into the shop and complains that his car doesn't run well. The mechanic opens the hood, looks around a bit and goes to get a screwdriver. He then turns one screw, which takes him about 20 seconds. After that, the car runs perfectly. The mechanic says to the customer: "That'll be $100." The customer says: "A hundred bucks? That's ridiculous, all you did was turn one little screw." The mechanic says: "It's only $2 to turn the screw. It's $98 to know which screw to turn."

I'm done with cars. I've had a truck for a long time. Currently driving a 2005 Toyota Tundra Double Cab that I've had since new. It's basically only for road trips, bad weather, and hauling motorcycles (the best is when all three conditions are met at the same time). I'm just about to give it to my middle daughter and get myself a diesel truck - which will also only be for road trips, bad weather, and hauling motorcycles. Some cars I've had that I liked: 1955 Cadillac Fleetwood 7-passenger Imperial Sedan (aka limousine) - had it for about 20 years - drove almost all my friends for their weddings. A massive 20-foot, 6,000 pound car: white with grey crushed velvet interior. When I sold it, I had only one motorcycle (BMW RT) and I made a deal with my wife: "Someday this same amount of space will be filled with motorcycles." I should've said "the same amount of weight..." 1964 Ford Mustang - 289 c.i.d. 4 speed manual. Daily driver for many years: restored it twice before I sold it. 2001 Volvo V70 2.5T - probably the best mix of performance and practicality of any car I've had. I realize that's not much of a statement when compared to the mustang and caddy - I've had some other cars too, but I didn't like any of them.

Not only does this thread make me thirsty... it makes me think about taking up smoking cigars. Y'all are bad influences.

Thanks Chamberlin. I appreciate the candid disclosures in those links. I don't feel any play in mine (as you also noted about yours). So if there is no direct replacement bushing, I think I will benefit from your experience and leave it alone. Maybe I'll call MG and/or Harper's tomorrow and ask about it.

I've never lost my rear brake either and I don't use it much. But Rox lost rear brake pressure while dropping down Tuna Canyon on our "Scura Rally." It's four miles of nothing but tight, downhill corners. I did a lot of engine braking on that descent (was riding Chuck's Mighty-Scura for that section). Anyway - we all talked with Todd at Guzzi Tech at the end of the ride. Todd said he loses his rear brake pressure frequently while riding in that area - and from what I understand, he's a damn good rider. Todd's working on making a 4-piston rear kit and I think Rox is going to get the first one (or two). It will also come with a bigger master cylinder. I think it might be a good seller for him - to customers who use a lot of rear brake. I was reading Lee Parks' Total Control book - he said the shortest stopping distances are when a mild "stoppie" is performed. Since the rear wheel is actually in the air at this time, his conclusion is that the rear brake is nearly useless (at least for panic stops). For trail braking while cornering, he advises to use mostly front brake when going fast, and mostly rear brake when going slow.

Thanks JB - good point on the balancing, I didn't think about that. For the record, this is the first time I separated the LeMans' driveshaft; before I separated it, I noticed that the yellow marks were about 180-degrees off (not lined up as they are supposed to be). If the yellow marks are there for balancing (not alignment), then the bike has been running an unbalanced driveshaft for longer than I've had it. ...and wouldn't ya know ...one of the U-joints is bad. It also happens to be the bloody-farking U-joint, the one that is hard to access. Also for the record - it sure is easier to lube with the shaft removed. I flushed the U-joints till nothing but clean grease was oozing out the cracks - that's way more than I would have done with it on the bike.

It's been a while since I updated this project thread, but I'm deep into this bike again. So here's a little update and some questions: Update - some powdercoating has been happening - and more to come. Rocker covers, plug guards, alternator cover already on, and more to come. She's also been the beneficiary of a few nicer bits I took off my '02 LeMans parts bike. Stay tuned for pics once it's all back together. Some more evidence that the bike may have more miles (or more abuse) than I thought: The swingarm bearings are a bit gritty feeling, and the bearing pins show signs of overheating. Fortunately, the parts bike's swingarm, bearings, and pins are near perfect. The parts bike rear wheel is also in better shape with an excellent brake rotor, smoother bearings, and even a bit nicer paint. Things are getting queued up for a swap (after porkchop powdercoating). But I'm a little unclear on two things leading up toward reassembly: Questions: Driveshaft: Here's what I'm tempted to do and why: Use the front half of the driveshaft from the 02 parts bike and the back half from the 03 LeMans. Reason - those two U-joints are in excellent condition. The 03 front is clearly worn (I can feel sort of a flat spot when I move the U-joint) and the 02's rear takes more effort to move than the other two good U-joints (it's also a bit rusty and the O-ring is broken). My hesitation - I've seen so much about lining up the paint marks that I am apprehensive about mixing driveshaft halves. However, I did push them together and they fit and feel exactly the same to me - whether I line up the paint marks or not - they slide together smoothly in every position and combination that I tried. Am I missing something here? Reaction Rod Bushings: The bushings in the stabilizer arm that connects the top of the final drive to the frame look cracked and I would like to replace these. Harper's only shows the entire arm available, not the bushings. Does anyone know where to buy these bushings and how to replace them? Here's a link to Harper's for reference (it's part #1 in the diagram): http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-cat-1100-2003-2004/transmission-complete-i-en-v11-cat-1100-2003-2004.html I already posted this picture elsewhere, but here's a link to it again:

Cool - I had never seen it done before, and when I tried it I thought "I can't be the first person to do this - it's soooo easy." I think for a four piston caliper, I will use two shims - one from each side to keep a uniform thickness. Just tap 'em together till they're thicker than the rotor.

There are few alternate methods of lifting the bike. I know you're trying to use what you have (and I have no experience with the factory stand), but if you feel inclined to buy something else, I'll say that I am very pleased with this platform jack: http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Center-Scissor-Hoist-Stand/dp/B00E8HGCEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451782410&sr=8-1&keywords=platform+jack

1) And to you! 2) Downshift and hammer it 3) Have you tried any fuel system cleaner, like Seafoam or whatever? Maybe a little flush of the system would improve the consistency of the fuel delivery.

Thanks GStallons and Chuck. This bike seems to have been neglected some before I got it and I've undone a lot of bodgery - but this section of missing gasket just astounds me. The bike does maintain about 80 pounds of pressure on very cold starts - but it drops quickly once it warms up. Therefore, I suspect the pressure relief valve is good. In the interest of scientific experimentation, I may test the bike again with only the gaskets replaced (isolate the variables). PS to Chuck - this is the Red LeMans, which you rode some during our "Scura Rally." It still feels like a good, strong motor - but not so strong as the Mighty Scura.

I had heard about the importance of keeping the electric bits together, but I always appreciate a timely reminder. And I have previously installed the bonus ground wire. That job doesn't look so bad after all - but it will have to wait till the LeMans gets back together.

The RH piston is slightly forward of the LH so the brackets cannot be "mirror images" - they need to account for asymmetry of the engine (same reason LH and RH headers are different). As for the difference - look carefully in my picture above - the RH bracket has two bends. Start with the rubber compression fitting, then look inward toward the frame. First, there is a 90-degree bend toward the frame, then there is about a 30-degree bend downward. The LH bracket only has one bend - the 30-degree or so downward angle. Another way to see it - the forward edge of the LH bracket is straight - the rear edge of the RH bracket has the extra bend in it. I was puzzled at first too - but now I think those brackets are rather clever. The reason I think the brackets are clever is that they can do a whole bunch with the same part - then bend half one way for RH and bend the other half a different way for LH. It's clever for manufacturing - but not easy on guys like us.

Here's my LeMans with the brackets in question - just happened to be open like this today. The difference in the brackets is subtle, the left is straighter, while the right has an extra bend in it. I had a pair of those brackets from the wreck I bought, but I sent them to Craig. I don't think he ended up using them - maybe check with him to see if they might be available. The rubber compression fittings are also visible in the photo - they should be readily available at any hardware store.

I installed the washers and adjusted the valves about a week ago. This made no difference to the oil pressure (as someone correctly predicted). However, I think I may finally have a good lead on my oil pressure issue. I removed the sump and the upper ring - one part of the upper ring gasket was missing. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=170_174&products_id=34 If you look at the picture of the upper gasket on MG Cycle website, you'll see two tabs. The smaller tab was totally missing. The oil filter housing had been installed with a metal-to-metal connection on that side. I'm no engineer, but I'm pretty sure that would cause low oil pressure. Now that I can see the crank and connecting rods, should I take off one of the connecting rod ends to look at the bearing? Or what else should I check while I am this deep into it? Please talk to me like I am a novice - because I have never done work on a bottom end before (except for dismantling).

I had a V70 wagon for a long time. Wish I had kept it a bit longer so I could have given it to my oldest daughter when she started driving (she has a Toyota Highlander). V70s make the coolest cop cars ever.

While putting some new rear brake pads on the LeMans I made up a new "shop trick" that I thought I'd share: use a carpenter's shim to force the brake pads all the way back in and make it easy to get the caliper back on the rotor. BTW - it's very easy to do the rear brakes once you get the entire driveline and exhaust out of the way.

Thanks for the photos. OMG - last time on twisties for the Scura... this is tragic. Get all you can before she turns into a flatlander.