Scud

I have a LH side tank insulation (from my parts bike). You could clean it up and reattach it (I used Seal-All to reattach about a year ago and it's holding). It would also give you a good idea about how to cut a RH side. Yours for the cost of shipping. Send me a PM with address if you want it.

I took the stock sender out and screwed in the external gauge there.

Oh, that's nasty. You are just missing the top section of the stock airbox. That looks like nothing but a rectangular ring holding down a K&N filter that is begging to be cleaned.

Glad it worked out. I see you had to make a metric to SAE conversion to mount it - but was there no problem between the drive gear and whatever it connects to inside the GM unit? The sender will probably disappear when you paint it black.

Nipped.

A New York Times article today suggests that many Americans think it might be about time to move to Canada, eh? http://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/04/us/politics/move-to-canada-trump-clinton.html?_r=0

It's TIME to analyze a joke. If geography is your point of reference then Petrograd is funnier. If political leadership is your point of reference, and the protagonist is under Stalin's rule at the time of the story, then Stalingrad is funnier. If you're telling this joke in America, then it is not funny at all, because St. Petersburg is in Florida and Americans are notoriously bad at geography - heck, most of us have never even left the country.

To a degree, yes there are. And at this time in America, we have diametrically opposed political forces competing to create the next iteration. Each side seems to exaggerate their claims to the nth degree. Ooops, veering toward politics... no time for that on this forum... It is true that there are iterative versions of countries. My neighbor was born in Persia, but when he goes back to his home town, he goes to Iran. And a political joke about iterations of a city: After WWII a person was interviewed: Q: Where were you born? A: St. Petersburg Q: And where were you educated? A: Leningrad Q: And were did you most recently live? A: Stalingrad Q: And to what city would you like to return? A: St. Petersburg It's funny, because all the cities are named after leaders, but St. Petersburg was renamed Leningrad - and the person expressed a wish to go back in time by returning to St. Petersburg.

Jeez, I'd always heard New Zealand was a little behind the times... But 1939, damn, that's about 80 years ago. And what is Nth America? Are there iterative versions of countries now? I once landed in Los Angeles before I took off from Aukland. Was in Aukland, looked at my watch and said, "Wow, I just landed at LAX." It's time for you to post pics of your most excellent adventure. Having a good time on the brick?

Thanks - I'm going to be experimenting with some VHT satin black engine case paint on my BMW soon.

I read somewhere that the European emissions tests were done at 3,000 RPM - so they leaned 'em out around that RPM range to pass the tests. I enjoy my Scura's superior suspension much more than I enjoy the slightly stronger (and noisier) engine on my LeMans (although the roar from the Ti pipes is addictive). These V11s are wonderful platforms to personalize - have fun. Think about starting with suspension adjustments (or upgrades) so you can more effectively use the power you currently have - or be ready for the extra power from your mods.

I have a mechanically stock Scura and a slightly modified LeMans. The only performance mods to the LeMans are the Titanium Kit Racing ECU and cut-down exhaust. I'm going to try a new crossover soon, just for the fun of it. You can install (or have someone else do it) the Titanium map on your current ECU - that, along with some freer flowing pipes is probably the easiest gain you can get. Or you can send ECU to a tuning pro like GuzziTech in California (not sure who to go to in Australia). I rode a highly modified Scura (heads, pistons, exhaust, and who knows what else) recently. I could definitely tell the difference, especially on acceleration - but I understand the mods were extensive and expensive. From what I can see, it's very hard to improve upon the stock airbox, but you can get some "mental horsepower" by removing the snorkels and/or expanding the intake tubes where the snorkels attach. Docc expanded his with a beer bottle (which must first be emptied ) and says he can also feel a performance improvement.

Did it strip it well enough to use a standard (non-textured) paint? I like the finish on the 2003 and later engines. Of course, that would mean painting the transmission, and probably the final drive at the same time.

I've seen some posts about letting the tank sit empty - and that they un-swell a a bit. Maybe that, followed by a a tank sealant and some knee pads if it doesn't go away. If that flaw was factored into the price, and you like the bike, it might still make sense for you. It seems the LeMans is just as rare (if not more rare) than some of the special editions - don't see many black ones.

Today on Sunrise Highway (S1) from 6,000 feet, overlooking Anza Borrego Desert State Park.

I installed a M10 x 1.25 pitch RAM ball for my GPS mount in mirror-mount hole. Conventional (righty-tighty) threads. Those numbers should be all you need.

LeMans Battery Test Results: Unplugged LeMans (was charging battery while installed on bike, through a connector I ran up to the dash). Waited about 90 minutes, measured, 13.01 volts Started it (cranked without any hesitation) and let it idle for maybe 30 seconds - then it read 12.95 volts. As a reminder, this battery was at 12.74 volts after regular riding and low-amperage Battery Tender supplements. Up next... the Yausa AGM in the Scura. This battery was at 12.58 volts when I plugged it in (just now) - also charging through connecter in dash. Selected 8amps and AGM... two buttons, walk away...

Todd will fill 'em with Malibu sunshine and a Pacific Ocean breeze for you. For holding up the front with forks off: sawhorses... straps from above... front end stand that supports lower triple clamp... where there's a will, there's a way.

I hate that too. And I was surprised when my LeMans set off the alarms (FYI, it was when riding very close to some parked cars). They're not obnoxiously loud, but they do have a palpable pulse - I can feel it when I start it up in the garage.

Too bad Australia and South Baltimore are so far apart... or we all get together for an exhaust-swap. sound meter, and dyno-run party. I saw what appeared to be the same exhaust on a 2000 V11 Sport for sale on Craigslist recently - so the OP is not alone in running this system. When I first saw it, I assumed it was a custom job, but seeing this thread, I realize it must have been commercially available. TooFat - will you be ending the suspense this weekend for us? As for data - how about the number of car alarms that go off in a crowded parking lot or structure? My Scura with stock exhaust sets off zero. My LeMans with sawed-off Titanium cans sets of several.

The BatteryMinder 12248 comes with a substantial manual, which can be previewed/downloaded from a link at the bottom of this page: http://www.batteryminders.com/12-volt-battery-charger-maintainer-desulfator-12248 Seeing you struggle with Odyssey's instructions, then seeing your relief with the AGM-specific charger is what convinced me to spring for an expensive, temperature-regulated unit. Prior to that I was just using some small, low-amperage Battery Tenders. So... when I said 8 amps for a few days... it means I have to choose the "Bulk Charge" rate, which the unit limits to 20 hours, then goes into maintenance/desulfate mode. The only other choice I have to make is battery type. Press 2 buttons and walk away... Here's a graph from the manual that shows what's the charger does:

Currently enjoying a Goose IPA - by Goose Island Beer Co. Others are apparently not amused to hear it called Guzzi IPA Why can you call a Guzzi a goose, but not call a goose a Guzzi?

Thanks Docc, it's nice to have some footsteps to follow in my battery experiment. I really have no need for all these extra batteries, but it's good for learning to work the new charger. I bet I could have saved many hundreds of $$$ had I learned the correct way to maintain vehicle batteries earlier. The LeMans will go on the new charger this weekend (while I take the Husky to the Anza Borrego Desert to make her jealous.) Discharge first... then 8 amps for a few days... and we'll see if that brings the nearly new AGM back up to 100%

Batteries and chargers have always been a bit of a "black box" to me. So I'm jumping in to try to figure this out - which could end up saving a lot of money. Thanks, Docc, for the advice. I have taken the following steps: Disconnected charger: battery at 13.4v immediately after disconnecting, but reading was dropping while I watched. Ate dinner (ribs, asparagus, salad) Opened a Goose IPA, by Goose Island - seemed thematically relevant Enjoyed the "Bright citrus aromas and bold hop finish" Tested battery: 12.85v Ran Slime portable air compressor for three minutes - figured that would be about enough to inflate a tire. Tested battery: 12.45v Reconnected battery - selected AGM and 8 amps Plugged in charger Placed additional, room-temperature Goose IPA in freezer for "quick charging" I feel that all of the above steps are essential (and that step 10 suggests an additional step). And here is the motorcycle battery "research environment" in my garage. Batteries in bikes (all of which have recently run but none have been on charger since last running): LeMans' PC545 at 12.74 - bought new less than a year ago (installed without any attempt at conditioning). Occasional starting problems as Czakky described. Scura's Yausa at 12.65 - about a year and a half old. Starts brilliantly without any hesitation. K75s' Yuasa at 12.79 - starts like the sewing machine that inspired its design (easiest starting bike I have ever owned). Husqvarna's Yausa at 12.62 - starts easily, but also has a kicker. Batteries on the bench: PC545 - subject of current test Three K75s batteries: an Odyssey PC680 at 5.98v, two Westcos at 12.72v and 10.47v

After getting the wrong charger twice (and returning it twice) via Amazon, I ordered from Northern Tool. Along with the correct charger came a large and highly distracting tool catalog (I mean an actual paper catalog...). I chose BatteryMinder 12248, because it is supposed to work on AGM, Gel, and Flooded batteries. I have a couple RV batteries for my trailer that have sat far too long - hoping this charger can make them useful again. I have four old motorcycle batteries to experiment with, but will start with the PC545 that came with the wrecked LeMans I bought. Here's the battery's story as best as I can tell: Manufactured August 2011 (0811 on sticker) Sat in bike for an extended period after crash - exact time unknown, but likely over 1 year, and the guy I bought it from had charged it once. After I got it home, I charged it with a simple Battery Tender - then got the wreck started to be sure the engine was still good. After dismantling, the battery sat for several more months on a wood bench (never on concrete) - I think I connected it to battery tender once during that time. Today it produced 12.50 volts - which is about 50% capacity according to the BatteryMinder booklet. With the charger: First connected charger to battery, then selected 2A and AGM, then plugged into A/C power. Note that it seems important to make the correct selections before plugging into A/C - the unit draws power from the battery to enable you to push the buttons to select battery type and charge rate. It started blinking (meaning fully charged) within 5 minutes. I disconnected and measured 12.69 volts. Then reconnected and will let it do its thing for about a week to see if it will restore the battery to 100% capacity. Per the manual: "If voltage is 12.4V or higher, a full recovery can be expected, given sufficient time (average 1-2 weeks for batteries that are heavily sulfated)." Ambient temperature: