Scud

Thanks GStallons and Chuck. This bike seems to have been neglected some before I got it and I've undone a lot of bodgery - but this section of missing gasket just astounds me. The bike does maintain about 80 pounds of pressure on very cold starts - but it drops quickly once it warms up. Therefore, I suspect the pressure relief valve is good. In the interest of scientific experimentation, I may test the bike again with only the gaskets replaced (isolate the variables). PS to Chuck - this is the Red LeMans, which you rode some during our "Scura Rally." It still feels like a good, strong motor - but not so strong as the Mighty Scura.

I had heard about the importance of keeping the electric bits together, but I always appreciate a timely reminder. And I have previously installed the bonus ground wire. That job doesn't look so bad after all - but it will have to wait till the LeMans gets back together.

The RH piston is slightly forward of the LH so the brackets cannot be "mirror images" - they need to account for asymmetry of the engine (same reason LH and RH headers are different). As for the difference - look carefully in my picture above - the RH bracket has two bends. Start with the rubber compression fitting, then look inward toward the frame. First, there is a 90-degree bend toward the frame, then there is about a 30-degree bend downward. The LH bracket only has one bend - the 30-degree or so downward angle. Another way to see it - the forward edge of the LH bracket is straight - the rear edge of the RH bracket has the extra bend in it. I was puzzled at first too - but now I think those brackets are rather clever. The reason I think the brackets are clever is that they can do a whole bunch with the same part - then bend half one way for RH and bend the other half a different way for LH. It's clever for manufacturing - but not easy on guys like us.

Here's my LeMans with the brackets in question - just happened to be open like this today. The difference in the brackets is subtle, the left is straighter, while the right has an extra bend in it. I had a pair of those brackets from the wreck I bought, but I sent them to Craig. I don't think he ended up using them - maybe check with him to see if they might be available. The rubber compression fittings are also visible in the photo - they should be readily available at any hardware store.

I installed the washers and adjusted the valves about a week ago. This made no difference to the oil pressure (as someone correctly predicted). However, I think I may finally have a good lead on my oil pressure issue. I removed the sump and the upper ring - one part of the upper ring gasket was missing. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=170_174&products_id=34 If you look at the picture of the upper gasket on MG Cycle website, you'll see two tabs. The smaller tab was totally missing. The oil filter housing had been installed with a metal-to-metal connection on that side. I'm no engineer, but I'm pretty sure that would cause low oil pressure. Now that I can see the crank and connecting rods, should I take off one of the connecting rod ends to look at the bearing? Or what else should I check while I am this deep into it? Please talk to me like I am a novice - because I have never done work on a bottom end before (except for dismantling).

I had a V70 wagon for a long time. Wish I had kept it a bit longer so I could have given it to my oldest daughter when she started driving (she has a Toyota Highlander). V70s make the coolest cop cars ever.

While putting some new rear brake pads on the LeMans I made up a new "shop trick" that I thought I'd share: use a carpenter's shim to force the brake pads all the way back in and make it easy to get the caliper back on the rotor. BTW - it's very easy to do the rear brakes once you get the entire driveline and exhaust out of the way.

Thanks for the photos. OMG - last time on twisties for the Scura... this is tragic. Get all you can before she turns into a flatlander.

I use a Garmin 60-series GPS and their Base Camp software with the 24K Topographical maps. These are the most detailed maps available - with routable trails. I got into this setup for my dirt-bike - the GPS is submersible and I have verified that while it was attached to the Husqvarna. Anyway - within Base Camp and the topo maps, there are some nice features, such the one I used in the "elevation trace." You just drag two little black pointers along the elevation profile - then the software highlights the route between the points you select - and calculates the rise and run.

That is a bummer. Given the series of failures, it seems like it would be worth investing in some help that is familiar with the problem of the spring and reducing the diameter of the arm that it mounts to - or at least point out the appropriate thread to whoever helps you with it. I'm still playing the odds on my '02 transmission, but if I have any reason to get close to it, I will do a pre-emptive repair.

Is it an 1100 cc V-twin snowblower? I've appreciated your past tool recommendations, such as the Pit Posse wheel bearing remover (works like a charm). Could I trouble you for a suggestion about exactly what rotor removal tool to get? BTW - I ordered a timing cover gasket today.

There's some cost info on the third page of this topic. However, I am starting to give up hope that the RAM clutch will be available. It's been on backorder for a very long time (from MG Cycle for $600). Used flywheel/clutch parts can be found with some effort. I managed to buy a low-mileage wreck - with a complete twin-plate clutch and flywheel.

Isolated the Scura's oil leak using baby powder - just let it idle till the oil started oozing out. Definitely the timing chest - but I had already snugged up all those bolts. Snugged 'em again... still leaking. Cleaned it up and forced some silicone gasket maker into the area. Hopefully that will hold for a while. Replacing a timing chest gasket looks like a hassle. Getting baby powder out of blistering engine paint is a joy...

The roads there are great. There aren't many places where the mountains pop up 2,000 feet right next to the ocean - and with road on them. Expansive views from every corner on the downhills - almost all of which have severe drop-offs and no guard rails. Here is the famous Rock Store, which gets super-crowded with motorcycles and sports cars on weekends. It's on Mulholland Drive, named for William Mulholland, the man who is credited with the vision to bring water to Los Angeles from the Sierra Nevadas, which made it possible for Los Angeles to become a major city. And three motorcycle-only parking spaces on Pacific Coast Highway in front of Neptune's Net (good fish & Chips).

37-degrees when I left home this morning. About 100 miles of slab to get past Los Angeles and 100 miles of steep and twisty... Here's Tuna Canyon - an 1,800 foot drop in 4 miles. Rox must have thought it was Fish-Fry Canyon, because he had his rear brake fluid boiling when we got to the bottom. This is first time I've ridden with other V11s and I really enjoyed riding in the last position to watch them through the turns. They are lovely and graceful machines. Finished up with a visit to Todd at GuzziTech - this is the view from his shop. Been there, done that - bought a T-shirt. I like Guzzi people. And you may have noticed... not a whole lot of Scuras... Mine's spitting oil at the timing chest and Rox is still awaiting delivery of his. So it turned into a V11 Rally. A BMW rider at The Rock Store came up and said - "Three Moto Guzzis? Is this is a rally?"

I took my LeMans' starter switch apart - all the way down to the spring and contacts. Took a small file to the contacts to get a good connection - and some steel wool to the spring, which has to conduct electricity. Hoping for more reliable starts.

Here's a topic for whatever you feel like sharing. I've seen similar on some other forums and it seems like a nice way to chat about whatever comes up: little tasks, maintenance, washes, rides to the grocery store, added an aftermarket accessory, ordered some supplies, whatever... Maybe one person's little task will serve as a good reminder to someone else. So.... what did you do to your V11 today?

and you got the Christmas model - Red and Green. Looks great.

Tomorrow, 10am At the Union 76 Station in Pacific Palisades where Sunset Boulevard joins Pacific Coast Highway 17299 Pacific Coast Hwy, Pacific Palisades, CA 90272 https://www.google.com/maps/place/76+Pacific+West/@34.0446101,-118.5691453,13.93z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0000000000000000:0x7546611975ff16fd

Open also to Scura-appreciators.... Leave Union 76 station at intersection of PCH and Sunset at 10am, Monday, December 28. Chuck In Indiana - owner of "The Mighty Scura" - will lead us through the Santa Monica Mountains. More details and tantalizing photos of Tuna Canyon Road on WildGuzzi. http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=80770.0

Welcome - feel free to post the offensive joke here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12226&page=1

Wrap those rascals in electrical tape till your rubber boots come in. Maybe you can temporarily cure the problem and enjoy the bike for a few days. Loosen hose clamps from airbox side of TB Push airbox tubes backward, into airbox Loosen hose clamps between TB and head Pull TBs backward and take out the boots I can't remember if you need to disconnect the throttle cable or fast idle cable - so watch those when you pull the TBs back.

Very nice. I got a few sample colors from Jet Hot, but I ended up deferring the decision - partly because I like that initial golden color too. Something in the Cafe Sport color palette could really do the trick.

Glad to hear you are getting closer. I was really frustrated for a while too - and frankly, I'm still a little nervous about doing it again (I don't want to mess it up). Based on your description, I'm wondering if you might have a little play in your throttle linkage. At higher speeds - say 3,000 RPM - there is one type of pressure on the linkage - the throttle cable pulling against the pressure of the throttle-body springs. The throttle bodies should stay in about the same balance while riding. Then when the throttle is released for idle, a different pressure is applied to the linkage - this time from the mechanical stops against the idle screws. So that's theory... and here is an idea about application: After getting balance at 3,000 RPMs, test to see if the throttle stops are resting equally on both idle screws. If not, maybe you could adjust one of those screws to even out your idle - it will not affect the application of the throttle. I don't have an idea regarding backfiring. If you do end up taking it to the shop, you'll be in a great position to understand what they did. And share the "magic" with us.

You're almost there. It does seem there are multiple paths to the same destination. The white knob adjustment at high RPMs should take care of your balance while riding. The air bleed screws and idle screws are about getting a nice, smooth idle. It took me a few tries, that's why I wrote up the instructions - partly so I can remember what do next time, and hopefully to help somebody else. I think I mentioned before - but it's possible that I have a step or two in there that doesn't make a difference. But my favorite step is "clean up and go for a ride." Make sure not to skip that step.