Scud

Hopefully Christmas 2015, for 2016 project... but who knows... could be Christmas 2016... I hope Santa and his Italian moto-elves get busy. Maybe a little back pressure through MG Cycle's waiting list will help. :helmet: :helmet:

@Foto - That is a smart and simple solution on the wheel chock, thanks. I was thinking about the "weakest link" thing too. I'd shy away from a steel part that would rip the front case of my engine - would certainly prefer the sidestand to break and protect what it's attached to. Like a lizard's tail... @JB - A wheel chock will cost you about the same as new sidestand... then NO pressure on the sidestand for most of it's life. But if you do break one, remember that I'm holding a spare in reserve, I'd gladly ride Angeles Crest to bring it to you.

Have not heard or seen such a thing. But I've noticed the flex. As for loading the bags. I keep a block of wood in the garage to keep the bike more upright when parked there - so there is less weight leaning on the stand. I also have a roll-on front wheel chock that will hold the bike upright - but I can't get it out by myself unless I figure out how to secure it to the garage floor (post-tension slab, drilling in floor not allowed).

Here's a Goldilocks story. The large black spring is from my Scura, it was too strong - the lever was hard to move and it did not stay in place; it returned to slow idle by itself. The small, bent spring is from my LeMans, it was too weak - the fast idle would not always return to normal after returning the lever to "off" position. The center spring is from the hardware store, it is just right (after being cut). I added a rubber washer - just 'cuz it seemed like a good idea. And now both bikes are happy. Since I had one these assemblies easily accessible, your query is my command. Here is the disassembled lever. The steel washer on the left is a curvy-spring washer; it keeps tension on the inside pieces. The main internal friction comes from sliding the little tab on the right. You can see where the inner ring has a cut-out. This functions like a spring to push the tab against the inside surface of the outer ring. It cannot be adjusted.

So... I just compared three of these springs. Scura - known stock spring, works poorly - won't hold a fast idle '02 Parts Bike - same spring as Scura '03 LeMans - much weaker spring in poor condition - worked great, until I put the one off the parts bike on. Now it's just as bad as the Scura Conclusion - I need to go to the hardware store and find me some weaker springs.

Here is a picture with the part off the bike, and showing how the tool fits to remove it. Once you pry off the center cap, you'll see what to do. I was puzzled for long time too - I kept trying to pry off the big part - but you only need to pop out the small centerpiece. The part in the picture has threads on the other side.

The small center "nipple" is a plastic cap. Pop it out with a small flat-blade screw-driver. Under the cap, you'll see that you can use an allen-wrench to unscrew the metal part.

Thanks for posting the part numbers too. I'v heard good things about these before. Order placed.

#270 on WildGuzzi: http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=79689.0

You already added me - but I went back and edited my post, because I noticed that it had a dead photo-link. (used my current favorite picture) http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6728&&p=200807&page=9

Well, lest anyone ever accuse government of being inefficient... I got my license plate today. It took less than a year. That's pretty fast if you think about it, because they have to get metal, and make it into a shape, and use two colors of paint. This makes we want to darken some more stuff...

I think I re-assembled the handlebar portion incorrectly on my LeMans and it now works perfectly. I put the metal washer between two plastic parts instead of where I found it - kind of hard to explain and I don't have a picture, sorry. The lever on my Scura has seized and does absolutely nothing now. I am doing fine without it - but I might take it apart and put it back together incorrectly like my LeMans. Like danl, I find it useful sometimes.

Damn the Torpedoes!

Maybe you could build a hot-winkie for that.

If, after some investigation, you determine that the tach is dead, you might consider replacing it with an aftermarket Speedhut gauge. A few of us have done so. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19038&hl=

Same carbon fiber Lafranconi cans as the same-year Scura, right? Say more about the forks, why are they special? Lots of other options for the rear shock. But some Ohlins up front would look AND feel better. This from: http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/moto%20guzzi/moto_guzzi_v11_le_mans_tenni%2002.htm. I added the emphasis re the fork. Earlier in 2001, Moto Guzzi introduced a reborn V11 Le Mans-the brand's first semi-streamlined motorcycle, thanks to a half fairing as standard equipment. The base model 2002 V11 Le Mans shares the same pedigree as the original Guzzi 850 and 1000 Le Mans bikes that dominated endurance racing into the 1980's. But for this Special Edition bike one legend was not enough. The Le Mans Tenni is named for a second legend in motorcycle racing, the late Italian champion, Omobono Tenni. Riding a Moto Guzzi beginning in 1933, Tenni was soon winning everywhere on Italian racetracks and then won all across Europe. In England Tenni became the first Italian to triumph in the Tourist Trophy. The Special Edition bike honoring his name embodies the remembrance of an enthusiast's machine from the past, revitalized by technology. The Tenni features the traditional racing green color scheme reminiscent of the dominating eight-cylinder Guzzi 500. New high-tech elements include a lightweight clutch that is "sweeter" and more sensitive on the lever, a titanium Marzocchi front fork, and a stylish suede seat that is comfortable for two.

what's this crazy talk?? Paint does not make a Tenni. Haha... in addition to paint, it needs: A number plate on the top triple clamp Two seats (exclusive brown suede and standard black) A lightweight aluminum flywheel, with single-plate clutch Some unobtainable paperwork or certificate from Moto Guzzi The rest is the same as a 2002 LeMans - or did I miss something? Too bad MG didn't put Ohlins on the Tennis. Is there anyway to verify it's a Tenni by the serial number?

Agreed, but style points earned for by what appears to be an orange rubber glove with upraised middle finger. (on the jack handle in 2nd pic) Net positive style points.

Ergos being somewhat a matter of personal preference, I'll just say that I am all-day comfortable on mine. Given the nice stable in your signature, I would definitely choose the LeMans for sport touring. Funny - it seems the three of us who have responded so far all have the Two-V11 sickness. I think it could be contagious....

Oh happy day! Fantastic bike. I ran into the 7,500 mile thing in California with my LeMans - just barely got through it. Details in this thread if you're curious: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18967&hl= The Moto Guzzi Kit Racing ECU with Titanium exhaust is usually unobtainable, although 6 were recently "discovered" and made available through Harpers. The Ohlins shock is a great upgrade too. You basically have yourself a brand-new bike there - but with some excellent modifications. I found that setting suspension sag for my weight was the most important first step on the suspension.

That is really cool. I don't think there is an equivalent event in the US. I would love to do something like that one day - ride the track and then watch the race. Closest I ever came to something like that was when I volunteered as pit crew for some privateer-racing friends in the Baja 500. I got to pre-run a section on one of the race bikes (ATKs).

I broke a few sub-assemblies into their final components today, including splitting the engine and transmission and getting a look at the dual-plate clutch and flywheel that was one of the main drivers for this project. An observation - just to reinforce what has been stated many times on this forum - there sure appeared to be a lot dry (un-greased) assembly. So many things I took apart had inadequate grease, or none at all: swingarm pivots, shock mount bolts, shifter pivot, driveshaft, I could go on......... The frame has no value to me. But I noticed that these spine-frames are welded together in the center. The back half is in great condition (everything came off easily), and here is a closeup of the damage to the front. It hit so hard that the top and bottom of the steering head went oblong; the head-bearing races just fell out after I got the (bent) steering stem out. If it has value to anyone (perhaps for some type of custom project), I'd gladly send it to you for the cost of shipping. If it's trash, please advise.

I got the torch hooked up and did as GuzziMoto suggested (no discoloration or other paint damage). That worked for all but two bolts (probably the ones I weakened earlier). Drilled out those two as you described (low speed works best). Good practice for future. ROTO-LIBRE. The rotors have been liberated.

The tubed bracket is part of the Ventura rack fitting kit, do I get a prize? You win a "like" and an a beer emoticon: You could also claim a guided V11 tour of San Diego back-country roads as your "prize." Must be present to win... Thanks. That makes sense and I will try it soon - hopefully this evening or at least over the weekend.

How about a little advice on the front wheel? I think the wheel itself is beyond repair. Picture below shows the worst of the damage - the crack is through to the inside of the rim, which is flattened and flared out a bit. There's another gouge on the other side of the rim and some marks from impact all the way into the center channel. The bearings make a little noise. However, Rox wants the rotors (which are excellent and will clean up well) and I want to remove them without discoloring them. Not having removed rotors like these before, here's what I think I know: they are in with the strongest thread-locker known to man. Rox and I already tried leverage and mild heat (heat gun). I later tried an impact driver (the hammer kind). All I get is the allen-wrench stuck in the screw head - which means I am getting close to rounding out the screw head. I'm concerned that a gas torch will permanently discolor the rotors (and that's what a shop would probably do). If the wheel has no value (as I suspect) I suppose I could drill out the screws. I have an air-powered impact wrench, but no impact allen sockets (willing to buy a set). So.... what's a guy to do? How do you get these things off without discoloring the rotors (and for future reference - without destroying the screws)?