Scud

Not TMI - well-stated. I thoroughly relished the experience of taking delivery of an unused Scura (185 miles, $6,995 at a dealer) - knowing that all the miles on it are mine, and knowing the full service history (because I created the service history). Surprisingly, the Scura had very few issues from sitting idle for over 10 years.

It seems they are asking a big premium for the low mileage, but this is not one of the premium models with Ohlins suspension. Those look like the original tires (the same as I got on my super low mileage Scura). If you're interested in that bike the date codes on the tires can provide additional evidence for low mileage.

I think where he is at right now is trying to determine if there really is a problem to begin with. So far there is only a lower oil pressure reading than expected along with this small amount of wear. That's a good summary, and yes, I've verified the oil filter is on correctly (twice) and am using high-quality synthetic oil. Rocker covers (and some other bits) are off at the powder-coaters - so need to wait a bit before I can run it again. I will run it first with only the washers changed - to see if that made any difference. Then I will look into the oil pump, pressure relief and related bits.

Thanks guys. I think I will try swapping the oil pump and pressure relief valve from my spare engine. While I am there maybe I can inspect some of the other bearings - will try to figure out from the manual, but I haven't done that type of work before and may need some hand-holding. Re leak: I replaced the O-rings when I re-torqued the heads in March (9 months ago) - the current leak is very small. A little Simple Green and toothbrush takes care of it. It seems to be coming from the rear outside portion of the RH head (like it's a head gasket leak). This isn't bothering me very much. Re oil break down: the previous owner had a cheap car-store filter in there, and I therefore assume he used cheap organic (not synthetic oil) - so maybe that's part of the wear puzzle. Re oil source for those washers: I think they might get pressurized oil. This is what I think is happening: pressurized oil is pumped into the pivot rod it goes though the center hole to lubricate the rocker arm/pivot rod contact area (inside the rocker arm) it escapes between the two washers and the ends of the rocker arms (in the grooved area in picture above) The top washer and spring must rely on splashed oil, but it seems the contact area between the rocker arm and washer gets some pressure. I can start it again this weekend to see if the new washers make any difference to the pressure readings. That would be good, fun science. I really would rather not rebuild a motor if not needed. I'll see how much more evidence I can collect.

Thanks Andy for the comparative data point. I was planning to swap out the oil pump from my parts bike as an experiment soon. But by that point, I will already have access to the big ends - and it's only 6 bolts to pull a head (one of which has a small oil leak)... I think I can do all that with the engine still in the frame. While I'm there, I suppose I may as well look at the main bearings - and if I'm not mistaken, the engine has to come out of the frame for that, right?

Assembly - everything goes in as laid out. That picture is of the LH intake (other 3 are similar). When installed on the bike, the left of the picture is the bottom. The deep grooves in the washers are from the motion of the rocker arm; the flip side of the copper washers are smooth, they go against a cast part of the head on the bottom and against the spring on the top. Pressure - the spring (2nd item from right in picture) puts pressure on the assembly. The copper washers are the softest parts and are intended to wear so the rocker arm does not wear. Pivot rod - the part that slides inside the rocker arm is in nice condition. The two things that look like wear are: the dark band lines up with the oil journal in the center, and the striped bands near the hole is where the spring seats. There is no noticeable wear on the pivot rods (sliding fingernail for test). Miles? - It does remain a mystery... but however many miles are on it - it's still a really strong motor and does not burn oil. And I have a spare low-mileage motor in the garage ready to volunteer or donate parts if needed. Has anybody else seen this level of wear on these washers? If so, how many miles and what else (if anything) needed attention at that time?

Here is a picture of the copper (I think) rocker arm washers from my 03 Lemans. I just replaced all eight of these and they were all deeply grooved. New washers also pictured for comparison. If you've seen some of my other posts about this motorcycle, you might recall that I am uncertain about the mileage and have been riding with known low oil pressure for a few thousand miles (and it was probably low for a long time before I measured the pressure). The wear on these washers is not new; I noticed it when I re-torqued the heads and before I had measured the oil pressure. Thread about the bike here Thread about oil pressure issue here Given this amount of wear, it seems to suggests either more mileage than I thought, or some time running without enough oil, or perhaps some other explanation... My question: how concerned should I be about wear to other soft parts, such as connecting rod bearings and main bearings?

Looks like it was a year ago, per this thread (which has prices in it): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18778&page=2 The Euro has weakened against the dollar since that time. Rox & Keith should get together and share shipping costs from Italy to SoCal. FYI - G&B takes PayPal now (a year ago you had to do a wire transfer).

http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/en/tuning-moto/tuning-moto-guzzi/v11-1100-sport-daytona-centauro/belly-pan/

Glad to hear you got it sorted out. I think the price might be similar to some of the Speedhut units, depending on options selected. But it's certainly less work than fitting a Speedhut into the stock gauge cups - and you don't have to replace the tach in order to get your gauges to match.

Great bike and it seems like we are going to have ourselves a fun project to watch. Bummer about the brake lever, but the Harper's lever is stronger, so that's an upgrade. You're going to love the Ti exhaust and I'll reinforce that there is no need to keep the front crossover - I ditched it on my '03 LeMans by having the cross-pipe holes welded closed, but I have a used set of headers from an '02 bike waiting to on with my new Ti exhaust and rear crossover. One of my favorite, although completely unnecessary, modifications to my Scura is the carbon fiber belly pan from Ghezzi-Brian.

Yup - living dangerously.

But adding motorcycle parts to the garage adds joy - even if it does not simplify... I wish I had a seat for Docc, but the wreck was an '02 and the seat would not fit. Somebody else already has the seat anyway.

We're talking about a stock Veglia speedo, right? I can say with certainty that the stock knob CAN be unscrewed, I've done it a few times and reused the same knob. For reference, here is a stock knob for sale at MG Cycle: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=276&products_id=86 Did Joel do something "special" to yours? I mean - was there some reason to not use the stock knob?

You can unscrew it by hand - just turn it the opposite direction of how you turn it the reset the trip meter. It might give you a little resistance at first. No cutting.

There are a few different sequences of doing things on this site. I think they all must have worked well for the people who posted them - so perhaps some of the sequence is not that important. I read a few and came up with a tuning procedure that made sense to me. As you can see from Tom's simple process, I might have added some unnecessary steps. My process is at post #66 in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18967&page=5 The TPS has two settings: 1 - the "off" position - this is the lowest (150mv) reading, when the RH throttle body is fully closed. It's a key baseline setting. If this one is wrong, it effects everything else. 2 - the "idle" position - this one is the higher (+/-500mv) reading, with the RH throttle body cracked open to allow enough air through for the engine to idle.

It's only 2,000 miles to ride it home. Or..... I'm sure KiwiRoy's tent would look good on that Cafe Sport.

Don't give up yet - you're doing great. What valve clearances did you use? I found my notes. Here are various clearances in inches: Factory: Intake .004, Exhaust .006 World Spec: Intake .006, Exhaust .008 Raceco: Intake .007, Exhaust .010 My Scura, after 600-mile break-in service by dealer: Intake .008, Exhaust .010 It seems that the looser settings solve some of the hiccuping and stuttering problems. If you set them tighter, maybe try the World or Raceco settings. Maybe also try balancing your throttle bodies at the RPM level at which you are having the most problems.

JB - maybe you could just get a spare stock seat pan and have new foam put on it for you. Any local upholstery shop can do it.

Great info. I've been thinking about rebuilding the forks on my LeMans myself - or having it done at Guzzitech. Let's go riding...

Try the valves first and see how that does. May as well check your spark plugs while they're out. I think that looser than factory recommended settings are used by almost everyone - and that too-tight settings can cause some of the problems you described. Valve adjustment is among the easiest things you can do - assuming you have a feeler gauge and some wrenches. Somebody on here once said you can tune a V11 with a rock and a stick. Probably not, but you get the idea. Throttle body synch is kind of fun, especially if you build your own manometer - just takes a stick, a tube, and some oil. So there's the stick, but I'm still not sure how the rock factors in...

I was having some similar trouble with my LeMans that I couldn't sort out. I pulled the connector from the engine temperature sensor (which is how I got it from the PO - and all the trouble started when I reconnected it). It's been running so well, and getting good mileage, that I haven't bothered to reconnect it and find the root problem. I think what happens is that the bike runs a bit richer when the ECU thinks it's cold. So if the problem is that it's running too lean - this seems to have balanced it out a bit. I do not think this is an elegant solution, but that's what I've done. I am going to try again at some point to make it run correctly with the sensor connected - next service. So - try pulling the plug and see what happens. I can't help with all the computer stuff, but valve clearances and throttle body synch are pretty straightforward. Just take your time if you've never done those procedures before. Edit: I should point out that my LeMans has the Titanium ECU, so my experience may not apply to stock ECUs.

Ah - you must have clicked into my disorganized photo-bucket. The above picture is in the Cleveland National Forest. Here's another from yesterday that shows some more of the road ahead, and a little one-lane asphalt ribbon down the valley.

Good way to start my day today... 150 mile loop, including some one-lane roads.

It hasn't sold because I can't fit it in the garage... or otherwise justify it. That appears to a fine motorcycle for a reasonable price. David - do you want me to ride it to Indiana for you?