Scud

I don't understand the Spud reference - unless this a potato joke, because the part in question is going to Jeff in Idaho. ("Great Potatoes") Who knew such a little part could be such a big problem? Be careful with those little buggers... or if somebody finds them, buy the whole box and share. Seems like a worthy addition to the fix-it-on-the-road kit (if you can find one).

Like machining your own fluid reservoirs into the triple clamp? That's cool that you can do stuff like that.

Replacement part on the way.... it is great fun to be able to salvage bits from my "parts-bike" boxes and solve a parts-sourcing problem.

Thanks for the seat-paint tip. I just noticed where you hid the front turn signals. Excellent. I wonder how she'd look with the same gold/orange on the head guards? Would that work or be "too much of a good thing?" The dark tail works well with the blue front - but full color matching would also be nice. I prefer the look of my red LeMans with all red (not the stock black tail). I have an extra tail section with some repairable road rash - then you could have it both ways. I'd be tempted to flat-black powercoat a few parts (pillion pegs and hangers, alternator cover, foot levers, rear brake master cylinder guard, etc.) - but that's me. The Rizoma fluid tanks are a beautiful, although a bit spendy, option. They'd be a nice pair of jewels to crown the work you've done. What gauges are those?

Gorgeous. In addition to the fairing, I love the gold/orange mirrors and wheel-stripes, the tasteful rear fender (using about 50% of the stock part), the color, custom plate, pipes, I could go on... oh did I mention the color? Wow. Impressive. Edit: just staring again. Is the seat dark brown? that's fabulous. Where did you get it done (or where did you get the material)?

Today is "promise day"

...champagne? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/5286454205.html

I think maybe previous-owner or mechanic practices have more to do with the wear than the mileage. I think these can be decoupled gently and last a very long time - but they are a bit delicate.

Out of curiosity, how many miles on that bike? I might be able to help you with a used part. PM sent.

Just watched the end of the auction on eBay. The bike went for a last-second bid of $3,101. That's $201 MORE than the asking price at the dealer's website. Anybody could have bought it for $2,900 last week. Interesting...

"After lunch, I decide to pay a visit to the factory. Guzzi owners are required to make at least one pilgrimage to the factory during their lifetimes." Great trip and pics. Thank-you for clearing stating this pilgrimage requirement. I will endeavor to comply...

Well, your Tenni does appear very restorable (and perfect on the RH side). As you mentioned elsewhere, it had a rear wheel lockup - likely do to a problem in the transmission - and now she's on eBay. Just a few hours remaining on the auction. I've been seriously thinking about getting it, since I have parts on hand to repair almost all damage (including a low-mile transmission), but I just can't see having three V11s (even addictions have limits) and I don't want to sell either of the ones I have. So..... if somebody here is looking for a Tenni to keep, know that I have a complete 2002 tranny readily available (minus twin-plate conversion parts). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Le-Mans-Tenni-/371469200244

Hopefully Christmas 2015, for 2016 project... but who knows... could be Christmas 2016... I hope Santa and his Italian moto-elves get busy. Maybe a little back pressure through MG Cycle's waiting list will help. :helmet: :helmet:

@Foto - That is a smart and simple solution on the wheel chock, thanks. I was thinking about the "weakest link" thing too. I'd shy away from a steel part that would rip the front case of my engine - would certainly prefer the sidestand to break and protect what it's attached to. Like a lizard's tail... @JB - A wheel chock will cost you about the same as new sidestand... then NO pressure on the sidestand for most of it's life. But if you do break one, remember that I'm holding a spare in reserve, I'd gladly ride Angeles Crest to bring it to you.

Have not heard or seen such a thing. But I've noticed the flex. As for loading the bags. I keep a block of wood in the garage to keep the bike more upright when parked there - so there is less weight leaning on the stand. I also have a roll-on front wheel chock that will hold the bike upright - but I can't get it out by myself unless I figure out how to secure it to the garage floor (post-tension slab, drilling in floor not allowed).

Here's a Goldilocks story. The large black spring is from my Scura, it was too strong - the lever was hard to move and it did not stay in place; it returned to slow idle by itself. The small, bent spring is from my LeMans, it was too weak - the fast idle would not always return to normal after returning the lever to "off" position. The center spring is from the hardware store, it is just right (after being cut). I added a rubber washer - just 'cuz it seemed like a good idea. And now both bikes are happy. Since I had one these assemblies easily accessible, your query is my command. Here is the disassembled lever. The steel washer on the left is a curvy-spring washer; it keeps tension on the inside pieces. The main internal friction comes from sliding the little tab on the right. You can see where the inner ring has a cut-out. This functions like a spring to push the tab against the inside surface of the outer ring. It cannot be adjusted.

So... I just compared three of these springs. Scura - known stock spring, works poorly - won't hold a fast idle '02 Parts Bike - same spring as Scura '03 LeMans - much weaker spring in poor condition - worked great, until I put the one off the parts bike on. Now it's just as bad as the Scura Conclusion - I need to go to the hardware store and find me some weaker springs.

Here is a picture with the part off the bike, and showing how the tool fits to remove it. Once you pry off the center cap, you'll see what to do. I was puzzled for long time too - I kept trying to pry off the big part - but you only need to pop out the small centerpiece. The part in the picture has threads on the other side.

The small center "nipple" is a plastic cap. Pop it out with a small flat-blade screw-driver. Under the cap, you'll see that you can use an allen-wrench to unscrew the metal part.

Thanks for posting the part numbers too. I'v heard good things about these before. Order placed.

#270 on WildGuzzi: http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=79689.0

You already added me - but I went back and edited my post, because I noticed that it had a dead photo-link. (used my current favorite picture) http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6728&&p=200807&page=9

Well, lest anyone ever accuse government of being inefficient... I got my license plate today. It took less than a year. That's pretty fast if you think about it, because they have to get metal, and make it into a shape, and use two colors of paint. This makes we want to darken some more stuff...

I think I re-assembled the handlebar portion incorrectly on my LeMans and it now works perfectly. I put the metal washer between two plastic parts instead of where I found it - kind of hard to explain and I don't have a picture, sorry. The lever on my Scura has seized and does absolutely nothing now. I am doing fine without it - but I might take it apart and put it back together incorrectly like my LeMans. Like danl, I find it useful sometimes.

Damn the Torpedoes!