Scud

The Angelic GTs can take you to the Devils Postpile. Can the Demonic take you to the Angels Postpile? I think not... That should settle the matter. I think it's ironic that the Angel's tread has little devil-eyes in the center. This thread is about nothing - like a certain Shakespearian production or Seinfeld creation. I don't have time to read the whole thing, but isn't ironic that Time has become timeless?

I had a 1996 RT for a long time. The motor is a workhorse, but the driveline is the weak-point on the R1100 series. Plan A probably should be: repair, ride around, resell. It's been down on the left (the side pictured) and damage is purely cosmetic. PO says everything was working before the driveline disintegrated. I just ordered a battery - gonna see if the motor actually runs before doing anything irreversible (like selling a body panel). Just considering my options. One worry with dismantling is that the bike takes about 3 times as much garage space when it's apart - and it's sort of hard to move after you sell the wheels... Need to go to San Francisco again soon...

Howdy boys - Yesterday I picked up (literally, as in by using my pickup truck) a too-good-to-refuse 2000 BMW R1100RT for $600. Why so cheap? transmission/driveshaft spline stripped - catastrophic failure after close to 100,000 miles. Cost for dealer repair is more than cost of buying a similar bike that works (about $3,000). I'm going to see just how bad the damage is first - depending on what I find, maybe try to repair and sell. But I think it might be easier, more fun, and more profitable to part it out. I think I can get my $600 back just by selling the 2 seats (leather Corbin and stocker), saddlebags and the brand new rear tire (installed right before failure). PO was thinking about parting it out - but only sold the windshield. Like our Guzzis (and probably like many bikes) they are worth more (financially) in parts than complete. But converting a BMW to cash to buy Guzzi parts and help fund daughters' college .......that's priceless. Something about my shady past: In my college days one of my jobs was to dismantle wrecked Datsun Zs for a Z-car specialty shop. That's where I learned "If it wasn't melted and poured into a mold, you CAN disassemble it." So... anybody done this and have advice? What do you do with the pile of crap at the end that nobody wants to buy? How do you get rid of the title if nobody buys the frame? Who wants four new BMW oil filters and a filter-wrench? I'm keeping the BMW tool-roll for my LeMans.

OK - 66 hours ride time is a BIT out of the way... Re stands, there was a recent discussion here, with some good pictures: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18907

Time is what keeps everything from happening at once. Now it's time to have breakfast, then it will be time to suit up, then it will be time to ride the LeMans to work, then it will be time to park, then.... It takes 10 seconds for my new visor to go from clear to dark - or from dark to clear. https://www.bellhelmets.com/transitions-solfx-clickrelease-shield/ Some people claim the effect doesn't last longer than one year; It will probably take me a year to determine the validity of their claims. BFG - is your Scura operational? Last I recall, someone chided you for neglecting it - but time has passed since then.

Guzzidiag says: "Scud, you will never find a COM port and OBD cable to make me talk.... hahahahaha" (sinister super-villian laugh)

And therein lies the secret to whole thing.

calijackalbob - you DO have Guzzi fever. I love that classic green and silver top-half on a modern, CARC bottom-half. fotoguzzi - KTM Adventure is the ultimate go anywhere, do anything bike. It's 80% dirt bike, 80% sport bike, and 80% touring bike. That's 240%!!!! How can you go wrong with math like that? I still sometimes miss my KTM 950 Adventure, but she went to a worthy cause - trade-in on my Scura. I'd take the Adventure R version as I do enjoy pushing the big dirt bikes into tight places... http://www.ktm.com/travel/1190-adventure-r/ Money being no object, I will take a new Norton Commando 961sf as my short-hopper, please and thank-you. Saw one in person recently... http://www.nortonmotorcycles.com/bikes/commando-961-sf/ In black... obviously... not sure why they are making those other colors... I assume that for this game, we don't have to give up our current rides.

Thanks PD. According to those data (and from a Scura... ) removing the snorkels has a minuscule benefit in HP and torque - robbing a tiny amount of HP and torque between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs - and giving it back between 5,000 and 6,500 (my favorite spot). A snorkelectomy also adds 4 mental horsepower (I made that up) by increasing intake noise. Surprisingly, if I am interpreting these data correctly, removing the snorkels takes away a 1/2-second of lag time from a 45 km/hr, 4th gear roll-on and somehow makes the bike quicker to begin accelerating.

Thought it was time for a sorting update. I've been busy fretting over oil pressure: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19114 But meanwhile, I've been commuting and taking some short rides. Everything seems to be fine. I did a leisurely 200 miles today with a buddy who has a Harley. Played accordion a little - catch the traffic on the curves, wait for Harley on the straights, catch, wait, catch, wait... kind of fun game actually. As for running smoothly, I did not manage to tune-out the minor hiccup. Then I thought - why not disconnect the temperature sensor and see what happens? That's how the bike was when I got it; it was running great then. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18960 Whaddya know - it runs sweet with the sensor disconnected. "If ya can't beat 'em, join 'em." I did test the resistance of the engine and air temperature sensors, both were at 3.3k ohms at room temperature. Not sure what's going on here, but I'm also getting 40.7 MPG (per today's ride) so I guess I'll leave it unhooked. In other news, I finally sold my Honda CB350-Four. So it may be play time again soon. The fiberglass belly pan (Ghezzi-Brian) and billet levers (Harpers) are awaiting reddening and darkening (respectively). And I set a new record today. Three whole pies... Couldn't even do that on my ex-BMW RT.

Guzzi virus is good for you. Singapore is crazy expensive on vehicles. Isn't there a way to keep a bike or two in Malaysia?

My price is very low. I'm just thirsty... six-pack plus shipping should cover it. People who don't have a broken ITI - it's probably because they have a broken Veglia instead.

K&N vs. paper seems to be a bit polarizing. On my Scura, I removed (but no cutting) the rubber snorkels and installed the same K&N you referenced. There's lots of "bad press" for K&N, but then there are people such as Docc, who are pushing 100,000 miles with K&N filters. On my Lemans, I got rid of the PO's K&N pods and reinstalled the factory airbox without snorkels, and with a paper filter - mostly because I had a new paper filter and was too cheap to buy another K&N. I'd be interested to see the data about the snorkels. Intuitively, it seems that they can only be a hindrance. But that's why people conduct experiments - so we don't have to rely on intuition.

I have one. Do you have any beer? PM sent.

There's certainly some dirt and debris in the filter, just not enough to bother cleaning it yet. You can see in the picture of the filter above that the left looks dirtier than the right - that's because of the angle of camera. On the left you see the side of the pleats that face the intake. It's only been in there 6 months or so. So, if by worry you mean you're concerned that the dirt has slipped by the filter. No, I'm not worried about that. It's been fairly wet this year and all my rides have been on asphalt - no dust storms either. That being said - when I got my Husky 450, the PO had a K&N on it (he mostly rode it on the street). I ditched that immediately for standard foam filters - the Husky gets dirty. I assume you're running foam filters on that lovely 640 adv. They stay clean when you're riding in the snow, right? Like in your profile pic. I love snow-rides...

...and is the Blackbird running now? Perhaps a picture by a pub, castle, or loch?

Being a curious sort, I pulled the K&N off my Scura after 6,000 miles of use. It still looks nearly new, but I could tell that the leading edges of the pleats were a bit dirtier than trailing edges, so I spun it around 180 degrees. Interestingly, K&N recommends inspecting it after 25,000 miles if used in the factory airbox - and claims some go 50,000 between cleanings - pics here: http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning.htm Tank removal - I use a simple siphon to get the gas out when I'm ready, rather than trying to run it low (which still leaves pretty close to a gallon in the tank)

There are 5 relays. Apparently, they are one of a few known weak points. Upgrading all 5 right away just saves you from future worry. See Docc's post above for a link to order them. $25 and 5 minutes of labor - then you'll probably never have to think about them again. Will you be taking the scenic route?

Are we talking about Judas Priest's vocalist Rob Halford? Like the best metal singer of all time!?!?!?

Congratulations. I rode in the Rockies recently on a rented BMW. I was itching for my Guzzi. Have fun with it up there. I was curious about a travel kit too - this thread has lots of good ideas: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18860 Oil level - heaps of opinions on this. I've been using a gallon of oil. Basically, the dipstick is a "X" shape in cross-section, it has two rings at low and full levels. I think a lot of people keep the oil a little above the full mark. Seems there is some variation in production, so some people calibrate their dipsticks when they have the pan off. +1 on the Roper plate. Fuel tank is over 5 gallons (as noted above), about 4.5 of which are usable (due to shape of tank). I agree that easy highway running should get you close to 40mpg (I tried that once... zzzz...). Gas every 150 miles (again assuming not too much stop and go) is safe and easy to remember. The low-fuel warning light helps... Definitive recommended settings? There are several different definitive recommended settings. I'm running .007 Intake and .010 Exhaust.

John - Thanks for that. I took a screen shot and uploaded it. That's a clever spot for the spring. I was imagining something on the front that pulled the lever up; your solution seems so obvious now. I think I might use the rear brake accidentally sometimes - just by letting my foot get lazy. Or that I might use it unconsciously sometimes - carryover of dirt bike habits. A stiffer pedal should "cure" me of those habits. Anyway - I just had this hot brake problem once that I am aware of.

A friend of mine put something like this on his KTM rear brake - said it helped. Maybe something like this can be adapted? http://slavensracing.com/shop/brake-caliper-cooler-ktm-husaberg/

Where, exactly, did you put the spring? (a picture would be nice if it's convenient for you) I wonder if the brake could be "auto-engaging" when the bike goes over bumps. Could the pedal bounce enough to put just a bit of pressure on? This could explain why the spring helped so much. This could be my problem too, as I didn't think I was using the rear brake very much. FYI - I don't think I boiled the fluid and I didn't lose pressure - just noticed that rotor was quite hot.

I overheated my rear brake midway on a 400 mile loop with lots of elevation changes. When I noticed it (after a major descent), I just rode about 50 miles without touching the rear brake - checked again and it was better.

Here's the MG Kit Racing ECU on my LeMans. Titanio - lovely Italian word. As I understand it, the ECUs were not actually different than stock; they just had a different map loaded on them. Someday I will connect to GuzziDiag and join the rest of the discussion...