Scud

Got the gauges installed again today after the above-referenced rework. Here's the oil pressure sender that goes with the upgraded gauge. It's much smaller and I mounted it with an elbow to keep the wires away from the cylinder fins. This one comes with a wire with quick-disconnect plugs. I also got the remote button option for the tach and speedo so there would not be any holes in the glass. The button is only needed once for the tach (to calibrate to match the pulse per revolution signal) so I did not install the button for that. But I did install the button for the speedo - because it resets the trip meter. I drilled a hole near where the trip reset knob used to be. And here's a look with the bars turned to the left. I used the logos from Chamberlin and copied all his other style choices too. However, I did make the eagle bigger, because I didn't get the extra lights in the gauges, and I asked Speedhut to reverse the eagle on the tach so they face each other. The oil pressure gauge is mounted to the fairing and doesn't turn, so it looks crooked in the picture - but all the gauges are level when the bars are straight.

I got the Hyperpro fitted and test-ridden. As you can see by the photo, it only takes two bolts to install the shock... nothing to it. Oh, you have to remove a few things to get access to the two bolts.... Very pleased with a quick 40 mile test run. The bike feels more stable and predictable. The rear wheel maintained contact over some sections that I know caused it to lose contact with the Sachs shock. I should have weighed the two shocks - but I am sure the Hyperpro weighs less, partly because there is no reservoir. The shock came with good instructions and a sheet with a summary of all the data I provided when they built the shock. The spring was pre-set and so was the damping. I did measure sag after installing the shock and it was correct (sag specs were also on the data sheet). It seems everyone has their own method of measuring sag. Hyperpro recommended measuring only hanging free and riderless - not a third measurement with rider and gear. I was able to take those measurements by myself.

To remove shift lever: Disconnect shift linkage from lever. Remove nut from the end of the pivot bolt - this is the "trick" - the pivot bolt goes through the "shield" (aka porkchop) to a tab on the frame. The pivot bolt threads into that tab, then a nut goes over the end of the pivot bolt's exposed threads to lock it in place. I used a socket on a long extension with a u-joint to access it from the RH side - all the way through the bike. Once the retaining nut is off, the rest is easy. Then remove the pivot bolt (allen wrench) and the shift lever will slide right out.

Nicely done - and nice teamwork. The Guzzi has turned you into an electrician... How many Stews does it take to reverse a light bulb?

Here's a sub-1,000 mile, "collector quality" Rosso Corsa for over $9,000: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/mcd/5092216126.html

I use the same Garmin 60-series (a handheld) in a cradle on multiple motorcycles and my mountain bike. I use the RAM mounting system. You just attach a RAM ball to the handlebars with a C-clamp or get one that screws into a mirror mount hole - or any number of other mounting options. Your LeMans should have two unused mirror mounts. Then you need an arm and a cradle that is specific to your GPS unit. These are available on Amazon, GPS City, and other sites. I like the RAM system because it's pretty common and super durable. I rented a bike recently, which had a RAM ball on it. Therefore I was able to use my own GPS (which also runs on batteries). Garmin (and aftermarket suppliers) make special wires that power the GPS. My 60 series can be powered through a specialized plug or a USB cable. I use the special plug on my dirt bike and a USB port on my V11. The USB connection vibrates out or looses connection sometimes, which causes the unit to restart. I'll probably put one of the special wires on soon, because it stays connected. "GPS - take me to tacos..."

David - for what it's worth, I paid just a bit less than that for my Scura less than a year ago at a dealer. It had less than 200 miles - so basically brand new. In comparison to the Scura, the Cafe Sport won't require you to buy a whole new flywheel/clutch setup. It also has all the refinements that go with the 2003 and later models. That's a highly desirable V11. So, yeah, the ask price may seem a bit high, but if it's in pristine, unmodified condition (which it appears to be) - then you will not have much in the way of post-purchase costs unless you choose to modify/personalize it. The dealer will probably give it to you with fresh tune, fluids, and filters too.

Looks to me like the carrier bracket on 02/03 is the same casting - but the 03 has a hole in it for the special bolt. I think you could drill a hole in the 02 bracket and use the special bolt (part #34 in MY2003 image in Camn's post). It would be relatively easy to mark the location for the hole when everything is still on the bike - just use a center-punch after removing the bolt.

Canadians are too nice to be Scuristi.

Let's start with the good news. You kept the shiny side up and the thinking part (you) off the pavement. My suggestion is: Go straight to the manager/owner of the shop or service department and explain calmly, without any accusation, that you had a real incident that could have resulted in accident or injury - but didn't, due to your heads-up riding. Now you are worried about anything else that was touched during that recent service - and perhaps state that you are uncertain about bringing the bike in for future service. Focus on your ongoing relationship. What does the manager/owner think they should do in response to this problem? It's difficult for anyone to prove what happened, although your explanation seems 100% logical to me. My guess is that the bolt was installed, but not torqued - that it just loosened and fell out somewhere. If not installed, even a light touch on the brakes would have caused this problem much sooner. I think your "at a minimum" request should be that the dealer offer you free labor if you buy the parts - but ideally they would cover the parts and give the bike a thorough complimentary inspection while they're at it. Give them a chance to find something else wrong and be of genuine service to you. I think I know which bolt you are talking about - the one that goes through a small metal block that fits in a channel in the caliper bracket. Interestingly, this bolt has a cotter pin on my 2003 LeMans, but no cotter pin on my 2002 Scura (same as your Tenni). To repair, you probably need to get a brake line, that small block (which probably also went AWOL), and a bolt (hopefully the caliper was not damaged when the line ripped out). Maybe you should request a bolt for a 2003 or later model. I think the 2003 bolt is a bit longer than the 2002 - the part with the hole for the pin sticks out toward the wheel. The fact that a cotter pin appears on the 2003 model (along with all the other changes made at that time) suggests a response by Moto Guzzi to a known problem. May as well make it better/safer while you're in there...

Ha - I gave up on Facebook a while back. My kids told me "Facebook is where ideas go to die." However, you can still browse the site without being a Facebook member at: https://www.facebook.com/guzziscotland Lots of great photos and stuff. Please send the Ewan McGregor Stelvio with giant knobbies to me.

Nice work -especially hiding all the wires in the headlight bucket. Wish I had the answer for you on the neutral light. It's totally backwards, right? - off when it should be on - on when it should be off. Maybe read up on what signal the gauge wants to read - then test and compare to the signal in the wire. I am curious though. I've only seen one magnet used for these types of speedo. What is the reasoning behind using six magnets on the front wheel?

I would certainly try to remove it without taking the frame apart. Not having done this myself, I'm guessing... but I think that you could probably loosen it enough to get it out of there. I just took another look at my bike. Two screws look pretty easy to access. I think I would shorten an allen-wrench with a bench grinder to gain access to the third - the one that is tucked in near the frame. Best of luck with it. Hopefully it comes out with the subframe intact. But the subframe takes what - maybe 7-8 more bolts for unobstructed access?

Look carefully at any modifications that have been done. I underestimated the time and money it would take to bring my LeMans to the condition where I would enjoy it. It's nearly there now. I enjoy working on it, so I don't mind the extra time involved - but I did end up buying a few expensive bits that I didn't plan on. I've been documenting the project here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18967&hl= I recall seeing a thread about how to do a pre-purchase inspection of a V11 - but couldn't find it just now. Maybe someone else will remember it. Meanwhile, it might good to read the rest of the menu - the year-by-year changes to the models: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5691

Those are the first empirical data I have seen on clutch lever effort. That is a surprising result, because of the oft-repeated statement that the lever for single plate clutches feels easier to pull than the dual-plates. Data trumps "feel" and opinion. Thanks for sharing that. ...and thanks to people like mznyc, Jaap, and others, who have hands-on experience with compatible parts. It seems that most people describe the Tenni/Scura problem as the clutch. However, the actual weak point (as has been pointed out in many threads) is the flywheel (non-consumable). Different flywheels work with different clutches. Once the potentially faulty flywheel is replaced (along with compatible clutch parts), it should last the life of the bike. Future clutch service should be less expensive - and easier to obtain parts.

I flew in to Denver and a friend and I rented BMW R1200GSs from http://tourbikes.com/ in Aurora (close to the airport and from whom I would definitely rent again). Here's the loop from Saturday, in which we rode three major mountain passes: Guanella Pass (some dirt roads) Berthoud Pass Trail Ridge Road (highlighted on the map and some photos from over 12,000 feet elevation) Then we took the peak-to-peak highway with three minor passes. Although this was not a V11 ride, I thought I'd share it with you all as it was one of the most beautiful rides I've ever done. I saw bighorn sheep in the road, moose (thankfully not in the road), elk, and plenty of deer and smaller critters. Pictures can't do it justice, but here are some from the top of Trail Ridge and one from a dirt road along the Platte River (which is currently running at maximum capacity with some flooding). The GSs were great mounts for this ride, because we did three dirt sections over the weekend. Too bad no Stelvios to rent...

Take pics in case it works... ...or in case it doesn't.

Swelling could be the problem - but sitting around for 2 months in summer for "de-swelling" doesn't sound like a fun solution (but great idea if you already waiting for parts). There are various wires and hoses that can interfere with getting the tank back on properly, but it sounds like you are aware of those. Beyond that, it appears to me that there are two other possible adjustments: The spring-nut on the frame at the back of the tank (front of seat). Make sure that is positioned as far back as possible. The rubber tank mounts on the frame (near the steering head). It seems that these could be shaved down a bit without negatively affecting anything. This would allow you to push the whole tank forward a touch. I have not done this, nor have I heard about anyone else doing it - it's just something I briefly considered while also also fighting to get a tank back on.

As for differences in lever effort - lucky me, I have a Scura (with original single-plate clutch) and an 03 LeMans (with stock, dual-plate clutch) in the garage. So, in the spirit of scientific research, I tested the levers side by side. I use two-fingers to activate the clutch - and if I were blindfolded, I don't think I could tell the difference. I can tell a little difference in performance on the road, but as I mentioned before, even that difference is not a big deal to me. In fact, I was just struggling to come up with some words to more accurately describe the difference. Maybe the difference is more pronounced with more aggressive riding (racing). I tend toward smooth, gentle shifts; I only use heavy throttle when the gears are already fully engaged. Meanwhile - I figure I'll let the Scura run the stock flywheel/clutch until the next oil change (12,000 miles). I'm still leaning toward the RAM unit (if it becomes available in time). All in the name of research...

MG Cycle also sells replacement clutch plates. To me, the biggest attraction to the RAM kit from MG is that it is complete. I'd be just as happy to throw in a twin-plate unit for the same money if I could get all the parts in a kit. I want to avoid buying a mix of new and used parts from several different suppliers - and ending up with something I can't figure out how to install.

...but I am notoriously insensitive. I also want the easiest, most cost-effective, and durable solution. I could manage just fine with 40,000 miles between clutch services. @czakky - thanks for that link, I hadn't seen that organization before.

Thanks guys, I'll get the GuzziDiag figured out eventually. The hiccup problem is minor and easy to ride around, but I'd still like to get it sorted. For comparison purposes, I noticed that my Scura was at .008 and .010/.011 (following dealer's break-in service). When I tightened up recently to "world" settings I noticed a couple small hiccups, which had not previously been a problem. FWIW - I figure the clearance is set when: Specified numbered gauge has some friction One size smaller slides in easily One size bigger cannot be put in

One can never read too much about Scuras...

I'm also looking forward to my GuzziDiag successes, but that will be later - as of now, I'm frustrated by COM ports, drivers, what works on Macs vs Windows, etc... Meanwhile, since my throttle bodies were grungy (as noticed during earlier cleaning), I decided to try some injector cleaning products. Here are my observations about fuel additives/cleaners: Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant: Last week I was able to take about a 175 mile ride after the above referenced tuning - and with the Lucas product still in the tank. The ride was spirited, with 5,000 feet variance in elevation, weather from cold with light rain to hot and dry high desert sections, and very few stops. It ran great (no hiccups) and I managed about 41 MPG. To borrow a British expression, I was "chuffed to bits." I refilled the tank a little while after the fuel light came on (premium as always) and by the time I got home, the hiccuping problem (mostly at idle) had returned. Not sure what the British phrase would be here, perhaps "un-chuffed." I commuted to work on the bike all week and had a fairly consistent (although still pretty minor) hiccup at idle and at low RPM running. It appears that it ran a bit better with the Lucas stuff in the mix. Lucas claims better MPG due to more complete combustion. CRC Motor Treatment This morning I filled the tank and added 5.5 ounces (1 per gallon) of CRC's carbon-cleaning stuff - which is similar to Seafoam and other treatments. With the engine at operating temperature, I ran another 6 ounces directly into the combustion chambers. Clear plastic hose (same type as the manometer) connected to vacuum ports at the heads, then to a plastic T. With the engine running (around 2,000 rpm per instructions), I let the open end of the T slurp up the engine treatment (hover over surface of fluid in measuring cup). This produced quite a lot of white smoke and made the engine stumble. When I got near the end of 6 ounces I let it have a bit bigger gulp and stall itself out. Then I let it "heat-soak" for 20 minutes. Just when I was ready to start it again, my neighbor rolled up on his Harley. We decided to ride a bit together and I warned him about the massive cloud of white smoke that was about to appear (per warning on product label). However, no smoke-out. Where are Cheech and Chong when you need them? He followed me and I did several hard launches and kept the revs up for about 15 miles. He said that although he never saw any smoke, that it smelled really bad for about the first 5 miles, then the smell went away. After some tacos (which seem to appear frequently when I ride...) I did another 50 miles solo. Results of the CRC "carbon cleaning" I have a steady, non-hiccuping idle again, although I can still get it to do a little hiccup at low, steady RPMs. I am trying to be aware of the potential to fool myself, but it does seem to run a bit smoother all around. I'm still running the tank of gas that includes the cleaner - so further observations are in order when I run fuel without the additive. Conclusion: I have always been skeptical of these type of products, but they do seem to actually do something. The 5-mile, unintentional smell-test, was good additional evidence. Possible Next Steps (Since I am still in search of the elusive "perfect" tune): I've seen some references to "Raceco" valve settings of 0.20mm intake and 0.25 exhaust, which translates to about .007 inches and .010 inches. Some said that using these looser settings eliminated their hiccup issues. Either try some more with GuzziDiag or give up and take it to a mechanic to see about the ECU mapping, CO settings, etc.

At risk of restating info from the last page, the guy at MG Cycle said that there have been a number of significant improvements to the RAM clutch over the years and that he has over 40,000 miles on two different ones - although some of the earlier ones didn't last so long. He did say it is a sintered clutch plate (with more material than earlier versions), that he initially had reservations about it, but that it has proved reliable for street use and he is now a "believer." As Paradiso mentioned, it appears to be the most cost-effective and easy-to-install option - a complete bolt-on kit. Although it is not the easiest thing to make appear on one's workbench. As for differences in feel, I notice only small differences between the single plate on the Scura and the twin plate on the LeMans. Maybe a little more inertia/momentum on the LeMans and a little more responsiveness/quickness on the Scura - but the differences are not big enough for me to get worked up about or have a clear preference. The noises are different (dual plate is noisy only when the clutch lever is pulled in - opposite for single plate), clutch effort is not significant on either bike. Vinegar stroke - had to look that up. While I am familiar with the phenomenon , I had not heard the term. This is such an educational forum...