Scud

I would certainly try to remove it without taking the frame apart. Not having done this myself, I'm guessing... but I think that you could probably loosen it enough to get it out of there. I just took another look at my bike. Two screws look pretty easy to access. I think I would shorten an allen-wrench with a bench grinder to gain access to the third - the one that is tucked in near the frame. Best of luck with it. Hopefully it comes out with the subframe intact. But the subframe takes what - maybe 7-8 more bolts for unobstructed access?

Look carefully at any modifications that have been done. I underestimated the time and money it would take to bring my LeMans to the condition where I would enjoy it. It's nearly there now. I enjoy working on it, so I don't mind the extra time involved - but I did end up buying a few expensive bits that I didn't plan on. I've been documenting the project here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18967&hl= I recall seeing a thread about how to do a pre-purchase inspection of a V11 - but couldn't find it just now. Maybe someone else will remember it. Meanwhile, it might good to read the rest of the menu - the year-by-year changes to the models: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5691

Those are the first empirical data I have seen on clutch lever effort. That is a surprising result, because of the oft-repeated statement that the lever for single plate clutches feels easier to pull than the dual-plates. Data trumps "feel" and opinion. Thanks for sharing that. ...and thanks to people like mznyc, Jaap, and others, who have hands-on experience with compatible parts. It seems that most people describe the Tenni/Scura problem as the clutch. However, the actual weak point (as has been pointed out in many threads) is the flywheel (non-consumable). Different flywheels work with different clutches. Once the potentially faulty flywheel is replaced (along with compatible clutch parts), it should last the life of the bike. Future clutch service should be less expensive - and easier to obtain parts.

I flew in to Denver and a friend and I rented BMW R1200GSs from http://tourbikes.com/ in Aurora (close to the airport and from whom I would definitely rent again). Here's the loop from Saturday, in which we rode three major mountain passes: Guanella Pass (some dirt roads) Berthoud Pass Trail Ridge Road (highlighted on the map and some photos from over 12,000 feet elevation) Then we took the peak-to-peak highway with three minor passes. Although this was not a V11 ride, I thought I'd share it with you all as it was one of the most beautiful rides I've ever done. I saw bighorn sheep in the road, moose (thankfully not in the road), elk, and plenty of deer and smaller critters. Pictures can't do it justice, but here are some from the top of Trail Ridge and one from a dirt road along the Platte River (which is currently running at maximum capacity with some flooding). The GSs were great mounts for this ride, because we did three dirt sections over the weekend. Too bad no Stelvios to rent...

Take pics in case it works... ...or in case it doesn't.

Swelling could be the problem - but sitting around for 2 months in summer for "de-swelling" doesn't sound like a fun solution (but great idea if you already waiting for parts). There are various wires and hoses that can interfere with getting the tank back on properly, but it sounds like you are aware of those. Beyond that, it appears to me that there are two other possible adjustments: The spring-nut on the frame at the back of the tank (front of seat). Make sure that is positioned as far back as possible. The rubber tank mounts on the frame (near the steering head). It seems that these could be shaved down a bit without negatively affecting anything. This would allow you to push the whole tank forward a touch. I have not done this, nor have I heard about anyone else doing it - it's just something I briefly considered while also also fighting to get a tank back on.

As for differences in lever effort - lucky me, I have a Scura (with original single-plate clutch) and an 03 LeMans (with stock, dual-plate clutch) in the garage. So, in the spirit of scientific research, I tested the levers side by side. I use two-fingers to activate the clutch - and if I were blindfolded, I don't think I could tell the difference. I can tell a little difference in performance on the road, but as I mentioned before, even that difference is not a big deal to me. In fact, I was just struggling to come up with some words to more accurately describe the difference. Maybe the difference is more pronounced with more aggressive riding (racing). I tend toward smooth, gentle shifts; I only use heavy throttle when the gears are already fully engaged. Meanwhile - I figure I'll let the Scura run the stock flywheel/clutch until the next oil change (12,000 miles). I'm still leaning toward the RAM unit (if it becomes available in time). All in the name of research...

MG Cycle also sells replacement clutch plates. To me, the biggest attraction to the RAM kit from MG is that it is complete. I'd be just as happy to throw in a twin-plate unit for the same money if I could get all the parts in a kit. I want to avoid buying a mix of new and used parts from several different suppliers - and ending up with something I can't figure out how to install.

...but I am notoriously insensitive. I also want the easiest, most cost-effective, and durable solution. I could manage just fine with 40,000 miles between clutch services. @czakky - thanks for that link, I hadn't seen that organization before.

Thanks guys, I'll get the GuzziDiag figured out eventually. The hiccup problem is minor and easy to ride around, but I'd still like to get it sorted. For comparison purposes, I noticed that my Scura was at .008 and .010/.011 (following dealer's break-in service). When I tightened up recently to "world" settings I noticed a couple small hiccups, which had not previously been a problem. FWIW - I figure the clearance is set when: Specified numbered gauge has some friction One size smaller slides in easily One size bigger cannot be put in

One can never read too much about Scuras...

I'm also looking forward to my GuzziDiag successes, but that will be later - as of now, I'm frustrated by COM ports, drivers, what works on Macs vs Windows, etc... Meanwhile, since my throttle bodies were grungy (as noticed during earlier cleaning), I decided to try some injector cleaning products. Here are my observations about fuel additives/cleaners: Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant: Last week I was able to take about a 175 mile ride after the above referenced tuning - and with the Lucas product still in the tank. The ride was spirited, with 5,000 feet variance in elevation, weather from cold with light rain to hot and dry high desert sections, and very few stops. It ran great (no hiccups) and I managed about 41 MPG. To borrow a British expression, I was "chuffed to bits." I refilled the tank a little while after the fuel light came on (premium as always) and by the time I got home, the hiccuping problem (mostly at idle) had returned. Not sure what the British phrase would be here, perhaps "un-chuffed." I commuted to work on the bike all week and had a fairly consistent (although still pretty minor) hiccup at idle and at low RPM running. It appears that it ran a bit better with the Lucas stuff in the mix. Lucas claims better MPG due to more complete combustion. CRC Motor Treatment This morning I filled the tank and added 5.5 ounces (1 per gallon) of CRC's carbon-cleaning stuff - which is similar to Seafoam and other treatments. With the engine at operating temperature, I ran another 6 ounces directly into the combustion chambers. Clear plastic hose (same type as the manometer) connected to vacuum ports at the heads, then to a plastic T. With the engine running (around 2,000 rpm per instructions), I let the open end of the T slurp up the engine treatment (hover over surface of fluid in measuring cup). This produced quite a lot of white smoke and made the engine stumble. When I got near the end of 6 ounces I let it have a bit bigger gulp and stall itself out. Then I let it "heat-soak" for 20 minutes. Just when I was ready to start it again, my neighbor rolled up on his Harley. We decided to ride a bit together and I warned him about the massive cloud of white smoke that was about to appear (per warning on product label). However, no smoke-out. Where are Cheech and Chong when you need them? He followed me and I did several hard launches and kept the revs up for about 15 miles. He said that although he never saw any smoke, that it smelled really bad for about the first 5 miles, then the smell went away. After some tacos (which seem to appear frequently when I ride...) I did another 50 miles solo. Results of the CRC "carbon cleaning" I have a steady, non-hiccuping idle again, although I can still get it to do a little hiccup at low, steady RPMs. I am trying to be aware of the potential to fool myself, but it does seem to run a bit smoother all around. I'm still running the tank of gas that includes the cleaner - so further observations are in order when I run fuel without the additive. Conclusion: I have always been skeptical of these type of products, but they do seem to actually do something. The 5-mile, unintentional smell-test, was good additional evidence. Possible Next Steps (Since I am still in search of the elusive "perfect" tune): I've seen some references to "Raceco" valve settings of 0.20mm intake and 0.25 exhaust, which translates to about .007 inches and .010 inches. Some said that using these looser settings eliminated their hiccup issues. Either try some more with GuzziDiag or give up and take it to a mechanic to see about the ECU mapping, CO settings, etc.

At risk of restating info from the last page, the guy at MG Cycle said that there have been a number of significant improvements to the RAM clutch over the years and that he has over 40,000 miles on two different ones - although some of the earlier ones didn't last so long. He did say it is a sintered clutch plate (with more material than earlier versions), that he initially had reservations about it, but that it has proved reliable for street use and he is now a "believer." As Paradiso mentioned, it appears to be the most cost-effective and easy-to-install option - a complete bolt-on kit. Although it is not the easiest thing to make appear on one's workbench. As for differences in feel, I notice only small differences between the single plate on the Scura and the twin plate on the LeMans. Maybe a little more inertia/momentum on the LeMans and a little more responsiveness/quickness on the Scura - but the differences are not big enough for me to get worked up about or have a clear preference. The noises are different (dual plate is noisy only when the clutch lever is pulled in - opposite for single plate), clutch effort is not significant on either bike. Vinegar stroke - had to look that up. While I am familiar with the phenomenon , I had not heard the term. This is such an educational forum...

Bummer about getting the incorrect part - but glad you identified the weakness before it could cause further damage. I'm planning to make my Scura's flywheel into garage art - but I figure I can squeeze out a few more miles first. Verifiable 6,000 miles on it now.

I'm speculating here - but is it possible that this problem has something to do with the fuel pressure regulator, rather than the pump? If the pressure regulator returns fuel to the tank, that could account for the gargling noise.

+1 on Tom's suggestion to consider Lee's bike: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19067 I think these bikes are undervalued in general. Great fun at a reasonable price point. Paying a bit more for a well-maintained and well-equipped bike will save money in the long run. Pass the Kool-Aid.

Prescient. I approve. I got the black spring too. +1 on setting sag - front and rear after the new shock is installed.

That is awesome. Fantastic work. You've been crazy-busy. It's fun to have an obsession... er, I mean, a hobby...

FYI: The Penske 8900E can be fitted to a V11. http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/penske-racing-monoshocks-8900e/ Backstory - Todd at Guzzitech was busy moving shop and his website said 8900E was only for CARC. I called Penske directly, they said 8900E would not fit the V11. Then Todd called Penske and they figured out that it can be fitted. So... Guzzitech site now lists 8900E as an option for us. Too late for me, since I already placed my order for the Hyperpro. Had I known in time, and for about the same price, I think I would have gone with the Penske.

I had to Google it - because I just had to know what else 11-pointers might like. Apparently, they like does, as in female deer. An "11-pointer" is a big, old, male deer. I suppose that reference in the article is meant to call the V11 Sport an old-timers bike.

Good idea adding stats about the rider. I am 6'0" and wear a 34" sleeve shirt - a 2" bar riser on your bike probably puts us at about the same angle. The PO managed to re-route the stock cables and hoses on mine - and nothing hit the fairing. However, the throttle cable was too tight, got a kink and needs replacing. So if you do this, check all your cables and hoses at full steering lock in both directions. I wore gel-padded bike shorts on a recent 550-mile one-day ride from San Diego to San Jose (mostly twisty roads). My butt was buzzin' when I got on the slab between Monterey and Santa Cruz... comfy the previous 400+ miles.

Fun article, thanks. "The trick is to get your gear changing and braking done before the corner." That's exactly what I thought till I set my suspension sag correctly. "...could be just the machine for the eleven-pointers amongst us." What the heck is an eleven-pointer? Can I be one? This is just the machine for me. What else do eleven-pointers like that I should know about? "...near painful vibes..." Ya big sissy. (ow, it nearly hurt... boo-hoo) "...gaze over yer pint at its glossy green paint and sculpted tank." Refreshing. By that I mean the pint and the prose. I don't think the lawyers let us print sentences like that in the US. Could be interpreted as suggesting that we get drunk and go riding, and open up a class-action lawsuit... Technical question: Did the Marzocchi's ever have both compression and rebound adjustment? IIRC my 2003 manual also mentions that feature, but I think both adjusters are only for rebound.

My LeMans had the bars raised and pulled back, and the footpegs lower and forward, just as you are considering. I took it all off and went back to stock (they were all homemade and not in good condition, so I threw them out - otherwise I would offer them to you). I will say, though, that they worked well and were comfortable for upright, around town use. This may not help at all, but yesterday I did about a 40 mile stretch of freeway and found myself wondering about rearset pegs so I could stay tucked in longer in the quiet air behind the fairing. Raised bars and forward pegs would make that much more difficult, and IMO, take away some of the benefit of the LeMans fairing. But a smaller raise, like on Leon's bike seems reasonable. How about some cheap advice? Try some padded bicycle shorts on your next long ride before you invest in a new seat.

Jet - I hope you get it sorted how you like it. I like the ball on the RH mirror perch because I use a small, handheld GPS (Garmin 60 series) on both dirt and street bikes. The RAM ball and various arms can also mount your phone, video camera, cupholder, etc... so think about all the stuff you might want to use. Mirror mount is also the cheapest and easiest way to get started. I've never had a problem with RAM mounts on a street bike. Only dislodged the GPS from the cradle once on the dirt bike - and that had something to do with a boulder under a snowdrift and riding too fast for the conditions...

Well - it seems like I finally got it to settle in to a nice state of tune today. I ran a couple tanks with Lucas upper cylinder lubricant with injector cleaners. The fuel additive alone did not appear to make any difference; I still had hiccups at hot idle and at about 3,000 RPM. But I figured that since the throttle bodies were dirty, it'd be worth running some cleaner through. Today, I went through the balancing part of the tuning procedure again (with the additive still in the tank). However, this time I also made sure it was good and hot, took a little more time with the balance knob at a few different RPMs (guessed due to no tach at the moment), balanced to a lower idle speed with the bleed screws only open a little - about 1/2 turn. I had previously balanced with the air bleed screws about 1.5 turns open, which gave me a higher idle speed (and I think a leaner mixture at idle). I edited my tuning procedure (above post) to record what seems to be working better. Still no success with GuzziDiag. I am on my second cable and got the one with the FTDI chip (even took it apart to verify). I'm still curious to see whether I am running a factory or modified map, what my CO settings are, etc. but now that it seems to be running well, it's no longer urgent. FYI - There's a detailed GuzziDiag tutorial over on WildGuzzi. I apparently still have some more to learn...