Scud

Ummmm.... is that a Vincent Black Shadow with a tank bag on it in the first picture (behind the Panther)?

Jetdoc - I have a spare wiring harness for parts. If you can post a picture of the part you want, maybe I will be able to find and remove it from the harness for you. The harness is from a 2003 bike which would have had ITI gauges. What year is your bike?

Correct - pre-shortened by PO and I like the look and sound. I've been saving a link to this thread in case I get motivated to disassemble and try to improve the appearance of the exhaust: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13524 Maybe that will help. Best advice is on the second page.

Thanks JB. FYI - EPM is offering a spring special for about another week. It's not advertised, but over the phone, they told me it's $50 off the $619 regular price, along with a coupon for a free rebuild (which normally costs $279). +$10 black spring + shipping. Smoother roads ahead... The pound has strengthened against the dollar a bit recently. Might be worth a call.

@JB I've been looking at the Hyperpro 460 myself, glad to hear you are so pleased with it. Where did you buy yours in the US? @Stew and Paso: Bummer on the sudden failure after you had the decency to compliment your bike in public. Where are her manners? However, it's cool to see the generosity. The Sheffield Brotherhood of the Traveling Sachs.

I just spoke with someone at MG Cycle and placed an order for the complete RAM single plate clutch and flywheel assembly: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=2986 Apparently, they get these sporadically and fill orders as received (I'm first on the list as of today). They received and sold one earlier this month, but are not sure when they will get more. He said he uses this clutch in 2 personal bikes and that they have lasted over 40,000 miles. He also said they keep improving the quality of the materials and there has been a recent upgrade to the friction plate. I didn't understand all the details, but he said the clutch plate has a lot more material than the stock Tenni/Scura unit. Here's the "benefit list" from the website: 1. Reduction of polar inertia moment (flywheel effect) which allows better engine acceleration especially from low rpm. 2. Reduction of the dragging effect of the engine (reverse torque) after release of the throttle. 3. Reduction of vibration thanks to perfect balancing of the entire assembly which is not possible with the original clutch. 4. Reduced hand lever pressure resulting in less hand fatigue. 5. Increased precision and rapidity of clutch engagement and disengagement. 6. More progressive clutch engagement. 7. Increased ability to transmit higher torque and horsepower. 8. Lower wear of the clutch disk with reduced maintenance. 9. Fewer parts (no intermediate plate, no second friction plate) subject to wear. 10. Ease of assembly, gearbox can be fitted to engine without centering of the clutch disk. Kits are complete as shown including: flywheel, new deep spline clutch hub, friction plate, spring plate, pressure plate, and flywheel bolts.

That is a gorgeous Nero. I'll add my Red LeMans to the registry: Per earlier posts, I was thinking about production numbers for the LeMans and I wonder if these bikes might be more rare than some of the "limited" editions. According to Wikipedia, Moto Guzzi made about 5,000 motorcycles per year while the V11s were in the lineup. Let's assume, for arguments' sake, that the V11 represented about 40% of all production, or about 2,000 V11s per year. Take out some known figures on any given year, for example about 700 Scuras and about 200 Tennis in 2002, and you've got 1,100 units of production to assign to 5 or 6 other model/color variants. Maybe a range of 100-400 units for each model/color variant would be a good assumption.

Fun times... degrease and discover... And I believe you, by the way. There was a huge difference in the discovery phases between wrenching on my previously untouched Scura and my multiple-previous-owner LeMans. Don't you have the Napoleon bar-end mirrors on your Sport? If you have not seen the stock bar-ends before then you might not realize that you have not removed the weight yet; the end-caps weigh nothing compared to what's inside the bars. That nut threads into the bars, and there is a tubular, rubber-insulated weight that goes in about 4 inches. It's a pretty effective vibration damper.

Well, "better" is so subjective and personal. Therefore, the answer is, "Yes, the V11 is better." I'd also suggest that the Cafe Sport is a superior rider's motorcycle compared to the Tenni, and at a lower price. Better suspension, clutch, and some other improvements that started in 2003. You never had a Guzzi before. Now you want one. What's so hard about that? http://www.veldhorst.nl/downloads/wp-e800x600.jpg

That looks like a stock threaded handlebar weight. Did it have another part or two on it? Mine have a small bar that goes across and receives the nut for the end-cap. If it is the same thing, it should come out counter-clockwise. I think a good soak in your favorite fluid, followed by more leverage will probably do the trick. Do you have a 6-point socket or wrench to prevent more rounding off? That is such a great color...

Good idea to ride it a while and see how everything is working - and again after your next generation brackets - and finally paint. Little changes can make a big difference to fit and finish. But I think you already know that - so I am simply curious to see what you've done so far. As for pics - Yoda says "There is no try, only do." (can this guy be Yoda today?)

Yes, I will get some threaded stock and nuts ASAP. I'll make studs next time it's off, or when I feel like it, whichever comes first. The oil pan does not even have to be removed to put the studs in. This is a clever and effective solution... and did I mention it's also a time and money-saving solution? Thanks again.

Passed this sign today... thought I'd grab a photo. Warning for 74 miles...

I already got it back together with new fasteners and anti-seize, and it seems to be holding (225 miles this morning). I am still concerned about the durability of the two that I tapped - the tap took a lot of material out of the worst of those. This is excellent advice about making studs, thanks. Now I know I don't have to be on the lookout for a used part. As for aesthetics, the oil-pan bolt heads are all hidden by the chin spoiler, so I can't see them anyway - but look at that "Roper-line."

JB - I had the plate on my desk for a while, waiting for the oil change, which seemed like the most convenient time to install it. I don't launch hard or do wheelies, but I have been to known to grab a handful of throttle on the way up a mountain. For where we live, that's what convinced me to put the plate in. It's easy to imagine sucking air into the oil pump during a fast, steep, uphill right-hander. The upper sump came out easily for me (and the instructions I linked to in my first post were invaluable), but some bolts had a rubbery adhesive on them that needed to be removed. I used all new gaskets as recommended, but the gaskets I removed were in great shape. Never seen the oil light flicker either, but I've ridden with some damn fast grandpas...

All buttoned up and WOT tested. Here's a photo showing how much more room there is for oil in my bike (dipstick screwed in). I'm pretty sure all the oil drained out when I put the plate in, because all the lines had to be disconnected. I added 3.5 litres and ran it a while. The oil level is about at the full mark - so I could easily run with 4 litres or more. Basically, the original full mark becomes the new low-oil mark. More oil, less worries. Having done the project, I finally understand what has already been explained many times: Technically here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13096 And with some extra flavor here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14318&hl=%2Bdipstick+%2Broper+%2Bplate Wow, there's a been a lot of discussion about this plate in past... Thanks again to Pete for a good product.

You could take a look at the Moto Guzzi 1200 Sport, I think the black and white ones are gorgeous. Ducatis with the 1000DS motor are relatively less expensive to maintain than some of the higher-tech motors. KTM Super Duke is another nice option in the big-twin sporting department. I've had a couple BMWs (too pedestrian...) and some other big twins, including the Ducati Sport 1000 (uncomfortable for long rides...). The V11 is, at least for me, my favorite bike of all time. I've been thinking "why did I wait so long to get a Moto Guzzi?" It ticks all the boxes for me. Have fun deciding.

Thanks. I tapped them and it seems like it will be alright. I get really nervous about stripped or weakened things that hold the oil in the bike... In other news, I can report that Nobleswood's ex-boots are waterproof.

I'm mid-point on installation of the Roper Plate on my Scura, following steps on this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8985&hl=%20greg%20%20field%20%20roper I've run into a problem with two bolts from the lower sump (pan) to threads on the upper sump part (square ring): Here is a closeup of the worst one: It appears to have seized and brought a chunk of thread out with it. I cannot easily thread a good bolt into this receiver. As lessons go, this one is about using anti-seize compound. However, it wasn't me....... Advice needed/Questions: Repair or replace being the first one - obviously I need to replace the two damaged bolts, but can the threads on the square ring be saved? Should I try a tap (will need to buy one) - or am I likely to need to visit a machine shop? Background: Since it was in hibernation for 12 years, and I had the dealer do the break-in service, this is my first oil change on the bike, and the first time the sump has been off since it left the factory. Only two bolts for the lower sump came out hard, the balance easily. All the bolts for the upper sump came out easily. Just for entertainment value: The bike was a bit shy of 6,000 total miles, so I decided to take it for a spin this morning before service and installing the Roper Plate. There was a 0% chance of rain. I got absolutely soaked and did 80 miles in the rain...

@ nobleswood: what does "prefer" mean? I prefer the look of the Scura's fairing and I like seeing all the mechanical stuff up front. IMO the Scura and Cafe Sport are the most attractive bikes in the V11 series, rolling art... but the Cafe Sport is better sorted (engine paint, no flywheel-bomb, fuel pump system, etc). I prefer the wind protection and lower ambient noise of the LeMans fairing at higher speeds; I can tuck into that fairing and get all the way under the wind bubble if I want to. I thought the LeMans fairing would be a bit of a PITA for maintenance, but I can remove the tank and/or valve covers without removing the fairing - so it's not a pre-step to most maintenance. @Ken Are the instruments and lights mounted to the frame on the Cafe Sport? I assumed they would be fork-mounted, like the Scura and your red-frame sport. BTW - I had a BMW R100CS with the same fairing as you have on your black bike. I always thought that was a beautiful design (and something of an anomaly for BMW). I think that fairing looks fantastic on your black V11. Have you considered swapping some brackets between the two bikes? I think the BMW S fairing would be sweet on the Cafe Sport - especially if you paint it to match the tank.

A woman goes to the doctor. The doctor tells her "You have three months to live." The woman says, "Oh no, that's terrible. Isn't there anything I could do?" The doctor says, "You could marry an accountant." "Marry an accountant?" the woman replies, "How will that help my condition?" "Well, it won't help your condition," says the doctor, "but it will make your last three months seem like forever."

Agreed. Absolutely silly to have 2 of them. Congratulations on the Cafe Sport and best of luck with the sale. The Laverda fairing is lovely, but I think it would require modification to the bars. Do you like the LeMans fairing? Mine had higher bars on when I got it - so it might be an easy fit for you with the Cafe's bars. If you're going to pitch the gauges, that gives you even more flexibility with fairings and lights. Ghezzi-Brian has some attractive options. - Silly

PDoz - wish I could give you a very clear answer. However, I changed a lot of things at the same time as I had the crossover welded. I have not got the 03 LeMans in perfect tune yet, but my remaining problems are occasional and at idle; it runs brilliantly. I am not worried at all about deleting the crossover. As an additional data point, I have the Kit Racing ECU, which may or may not have been modified... The welds are not noticeable from most angles. They remind me of vestigial horse toes (aka chestnuts). In the picture you can also see where the crossover pipe was rubbing on the alternator cover. That being said, I think the most compelling answer for you would need to come from someone who changed only the pipes and could give you a before/after report.

My throttle bodies were a mess too. I wrote that procedure because it was my first time tuning this bike; I failed twice, and I had some conflicting sets of instructions. I had some extra challenges, because I am undoing a lot of modifications - and I'm not sure if the Kit Racing ECU programming was modified. Here's a link in case it's helpful: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18967&page=5 You will need to endure a tractor joke on the way to useful stuff at post #66. Delman - it sounds like yours was recently running well and I assume you have not changed any equipment. So the process should work well for you. Be slow and meticulous - maybe you can get it right the first time.

Hey Stew - Sounds like you've got some answers already. Speedo: Our bikes don't have a speedo sensor, they only have a mechanically driven cable - so there's nothing for the new gauge to be compatible with. KiwiRoy installed a sensor (I think he made it himself ). That part of the project was intimidating to me, and I thought the GPS speedo was cool, and easier to install - magic speedo signal from thin air... Warning lights: There are a shed-load (in America we say shit-load) of wires into that T-shape between the gauges. Make sure your new gauge will replace all the functions: oil pressure warning, charging warning, neutral, turn signals, high beams. If your new all-in-one doesn't do some of the functions, then you will probably want to put some other warning lights in. Not messing with all those wires was one my primary motivators to keep the stock appearance - plus the plastic gauge cup protects them from the elements. From my own recent experience - try to talk with a technician before you order. That would have saved me some time and rework. The job was a little scary to me - but I just went slowly and got friendly with my multi-meter. Good learning experience.