Scud

Mileage, of course, depends on many factors. I think a wider tire will generally last a bit longer than a narrower tire under the same conditions. I ran the 170 rear - I think 160 for you. Our pressures were pretty close. However, I understand curves and corners tend to inspire you toward hard acceleration and hard braking. I am no stranger to that style, but most of the time I aim for smooth transitions and settle into a flow that's sustainable for me - so I'm probably not riding quite as hard as you most of the time. I'm really pleased with how the Angels wore - pretty evenly (not squared off too badly) and there was only minimal scalloping. The wear indicator is in the right spot - once the tread got even with the indicator the handling deteriorated.

I'm ready to put a second set of Angel GTs on the Scura. Yesterday morning, I still had a little bit of tread above the wear marks. I did about 150 miles of freeway (had work in Los Angeles) and decided to avoid the Friday afternoon LA to San Diego traffic by taking the scenic route home (including a lovely 7,000 foot ascent into the San Bernardino Mountains and another 4,000 foot climb over San Jacinto). Narrowly missed a nasty wildfire (hydrant icon on map) that burned a bunch of cars and closed the freeway. Check out the roasted E-Type Jaguar on the car carrier at 1:31.... so sad. http://ktla.com/2015/07/17/15-freeway-shut-down-in-cajon-pass-due-to-30-acre-north-fire/ Anyway, the rear tire is done now; the tread is even with some of the wear bars. I got about 6,000 miles out of it, running 34psi front and 38psi rear. I felt comfortable on the tire up until about the last 100 miles yesterday, when it started feeling a little mushy in the corners. The front still has life in it, but it's got ridges on the sides - those bumps after the flat spot from my most common lean angle (which apparently is not very deep). I estimate I could squeeze another 2,000 miles out of the front, but I'll probably just put a new one on at the same time. Wildfire on the San Andreas Fault... Welcome to Los Angeles... Shake and bake...

Oh, man, that's cold. ...cuz of the elevation.

As good fortune would have it, there is another V11 close by, right in my garage. My Scura has only 7,000 miles on it; I can compare against the LeMans (and it's unknown past). After yesterday's oil change on the LeMans, they both have the same Maxima 20w-50 oil. I just ordered an oil pressure test kit - will hook it up to each bike for comparison. As to wear, I did notice a worn part when I retorqued the heads. There is a pair of brass (I think) washers that go near the springs on the rocker arm pins. They had some grooves in them, but not having spares on hand, I reinstalled them. I assumed the LeMans had fairly low-miles when I bought it, but seeing those grooves gave me some cause for doubt.

Keyboard sounds like a good outfit, which gives me an idea... Czakky - I have a lovely piano that I don't play much anymore. I would gladly "store" your LeMans in my living room and ship the piano on to you. Docc's earlier idea about storing your bike near mountains is good - but at my place, it will have MOUNTAINS nearby and still be close to the salty ocean air to which it is accustomed.

Great photo. Got anymore? Makes me want to try a track day - never have done one.

Update - the LeMans performed well on my recent trip to the Eastern Sierras, mostly short rides (+/- 100 miles) in the mornings. One morning, with temperatures near freezing, I saw about 80psi at startup. I just pulled the sump and found: No debris No metal on the magnetic drain plug Clean screen UNI filter was secure and only had one gasket (still in perfect condition) Mating surface for gasket has no scratches I filled it with fresh 20w-50 Maxima full synthetic oil, along with a new WIX filter. Initially, I was encouraged, because the pressures in the first couple miles were much higher than I saw with the 10w-40. Example: 70psi at 4,000 with the 20w-50 vs. 40psi at 4,000 with the 10w-40. Then, when it was fully warmed up, I got about the same pressure readings as posted earlier (post #6). Example, just below 20psi at 4,000. The easy checks and switching to heavier oil have not made a difference. Stay tuned for an independent oil pressure gauge and/or further disassembly...

And I felt especially dumb, since I wrote about how good their instructions were... I tend toward the meticulous, so it really bugged me that I put it on backwards. Then I found this photo of the bike when I got it - with the stock shock mounted backwards. The PO had installed a shorter spring to lower the bike and must have reversed the shock during reinstall (FYI - reservoir was mounted under seat). I copied the incorrect orientation of the stock unit (without consulting the book). I'll still fix it - but at least I feel a little better. Thanks again for calling attention to the error.

I bet the whole front end (clamps, forks, brakes, etc.) weighs less than stock. I imagine the bike is not carrying the stock tool kit (how many pounds for that?). Don't underestimate the weight of the stock wiring harness and all the related connectors, switches, and sensors. I got a spare harness for parts and was surprised at how heavy it is. No steering damper No plug guards There's a huge pile of take-offs somewhere - look at the v-shaped brackets from frame to engine - there's nothing in there. My LeMans had K&N pods and no hugger when I got it. It was a mess from tire spray - including that the inboard sides of the air pods were clogged with debris (sand and pebbles). Beauty seems to have been prioritized above daily utility for this build - and beauty (IMO) has been accomplished. Great for a collection, but not sure I'd want to ride it a lot. Since we're critiquing... if I had been given "carte blanche" as the article states, I would have used some billet fluid reservoirs instead of the clear plastic cups, and installed a Roper plate to keep the oil flowing during the inevitable wheelies...

Sweet bike. Let's see if we can figure how they shaved 50 kilos (110 pounds) off the bike. Here's what I spotted: Excel Wheels Smaller tank (but if it's metal, not sure it would weigh less than the stock plastic tank) Box exhaust No accommodation for pillion (seat, hangers, pegs) Switch to carbs (no ECU, fuel pump, other injection parts, no airbox (or filters that I can see) Total rewire: no signals, no horns, fewer gauges/lights, fewer switches (such as sidestand), I assume there is a lithium battery hiding in tail or under tank, also assume no need for relays and associated wiring Drill holes in frame, swingarm, and final drive housing Shock without reservoir What else?

I had that problem once. I was puzzled at first too. When I revved the engine and quickly released the throttle it went back to idle speed, because it had enough momentum to snap-back through the resistance of the sticky linkage or gummed-up springs. Try cleaning and lubricating the springs that close the throttle bodies - and all the other parts of the throttle linkage. Open and close the throttle with the bike off - try to notice where it is sticking. I hope it is the same problem that I experienced, if so, you'll be done with it in 10 minutes of cleaning.

Thanks guys, but the only reward I need is a big mountain ahead, the morning sun at my back, and 6,000 RPMs through miles and miles of big sweeping corners. The Eastern ascent of Tioga Pass is over 3,000 feet vertical in about 12 miles... I rode it twice last week. Great family trip too. They sleep in; I get up early, walk the dog, then rip around for 100 or so miles and get back to camp for breakfast and the rest of the day. Here are a couple more pics from the same spot as the first three photos. Every point of view seems like it's a totally different location - but I only stopped at one spot on the Eastern slope. Come visit and ride one. The LeMans is almost sorted...

New fender, bracket, and mounting hardware arrived. This bracket is NOT going to break; it's about 3mm thick. I'm glad that Ghezzi-Brian responded by improving their product. FYI - they also now accept PayPal.

That bike-dragger thing would also put a big flat spot on your back tire and maybe over 1,000 miles on the odometer - so maybe factor in the cost of a rear tire. Shipping seems easier, cheaper, and better for the bike than that. But if you've got other stuff that you want to be sure to have when you get there (or along the way), maybe rent a small trailer that could take the bike and the stuff. Your Volvo (assuming it already has a hitch) could probably pull a couple thousand pounds. Have you considered one of these?

If you ever get a chance to ride the Tioga pass, through Yosemite National Park, I highly recommend it. Here's a plaque, dedicated to the people who built this wonderful road across a 10,000 foot pass in the Sierra Nevada range. Sample scenery on the way up the Eastern slope between 13,000 foot peaks... ...where the LeMans was Rock-Solid (if you'll pardon the word-play). A short walk yielded this view of Half-Dome, where a 5 million pound slab of rock slipped off during my trip. I swear it wasn't because of my loud pipes... The weather was fast-changing all week, with precipitation almost every day at some point, including snow at higher elevations and a mid-summer, pea-sized-hail and thunder-fest that shattered the skylight/vents in my trailer. The Husky loved it, the Guzzi not so much... Gratuitous dirt-bike photo. There are virtually endless dirt roads accessible in the Eastern Sierras if you have a street-legal dirt bike - many suitable for adventure bikes. What better way to visit the Devils Postpile than on a brand-new Angel GT? The only way to ride to the trailhead is to arrive early, before the mandatory tram-ride begins operating.

No experience with shippers, but if you want some DIY advice, I can help with that. Last week I towed my LeMans close to 1,000 miles. I used a roll-on wheel chock attached to the floor-brackets of my toy-hauler via carabiners and turnbuckles. Front wheel - roll onto chock, no need to compress suspension Rear wheel - strap around wheel with tension pulling bike backward Side to side stability - one strap through each passenger peg bracket, some compression of rear suspension. +1 on best wishes on the move. Gotta ask though - isn't there some other way to get it there over a long weekend? Something involving a one-way plane ticket and about 10 tanks of gas?

I had a problem like that on a BMW. After much searching (and trying to identify the leading indicators like you are doing), the problem turned out to be the kill switch. It would make (or break) contact at inopportune times - when it got jostled the wrong way. After replacing a broken spring and cleaning the contacts in the switch, the problem was solved.

Mistake by me - thanks for pointing it out. And you guys are too kind. An appropriate post would have been: "Hey Scud - ya bonehead! You mounted your shock backwards. Was something burning during the install?" Rides nice as-is... but I'll switch it as I would like to be able to reach the adjuster.

I figured as much for the relief valve. But as for checking main and piston bearings - the crankshaft has to come out? That'll be a new adventure for me... I paid extra to upgrade to the more accurate one and match my other Speedhut gauges. I called Speedhut to double check - they claim zero problems with this gauge. If I had it to do over, I would get a mechanical oil pressure gauge, even if it didn't look exactly the same. Well, at least I have data to compare against. I was thinking the Maxima 20w-50 synthetic, same as I have in the Scura. Is there something special about the Lucas product? I think some people said the warning light comes on in the low single digits - like 4-5 PSI. Here's the thing about this whole topic - without the gauge I would never have suspected an issue or known any of this. Not to cause great anxiety in others, but... without a gauge all you know is: "Oil Pressure > 4PSI when the light is off." Anyway - I'll see all you boys in a week to ten days. I'll try not to stuff the Husqvarna into any lava tubes or gold mines.

Thanks for all the info and advice. I'm going to ride it a bit more and rip into it soon. Headed out for a week tomorrow with the family (and the LeMans and Husqvarna in tow). The Husky is going to see the most duty next week - probably just a few short, scenic jaunts on the LeMans, with a careful eye on my lovely new oil pressure gauge... Given that I don't know the history of the bike, but the odometer was broken, maybe it has more miles than I thought... or maybe one of the POs ran it low on oil once... or...? At a minimum, I'll try a WIX filter and 20w-50 oil. Meanwhile, if anybody is aware of a particularly useful thread that shows how to test the oil pressure relief valve or the bearing or other clearances, please feel free to post links here.

Those look a bit rare... Are they from a ferrous pig? Interesting degreasing technique...

I can't speak to that specific combination. But just a couple days ago I put a Pirelli Angel GT on the front, to accompany the still-good Michelin Pilot Road 2 on the rear. Very pleased with the handling. I prefer to run matched tires but I don't worry about a little transition time with an unmatched set. I plan to put the Angel on the back when needed. Good time to put in an angled valve stem for easy access.

Thanks for the info. My oil pressure sender is where the stock unit used to be. I assume pressure should be about the same between the two points. Your start up is similar to what I see, and your peak pressures are a bit higher than I get at first. You don't see pressure drop when it warms up? What weight oil are you using - and is it organic, or synthetic?

I'm not sure that I'm happy (or unhappy) with the pressure readings. But I am sure that if I had only a warning light that I would be ignorant of the pressure readings, and not have even started this thread, I would just be riding the bike (as I have been doing). What I'm trying to do is to figure out what makes sense. The above-referenced conversation (post #7) on the automotive engineer site really challenged my thinking. Of course, I am not disputing the need for oil pressure and proper lubrication. But as I am currently understanding it, a high oil pressure number just shows how much the oil is being held back, not how much it is flowing. The idea that a lower pressure number can be good - and can indicate more oil flow and better cooling - is new to me. The "bleeding somewhere" could be fast flow through all the places the oil is supposed to go, which would be good. So - I'm not trying to be right, and certainly not trying to do harm, just trying to learn by paying attention to the data. Hopefully we can get a direct comparison with someone else's experience.