Scud

Today, I received a RAM single-plate clutch from MG Cycle. Which contains the following: Fully assembled, ready to install, clutch and flywheel Transmission input spline 6 pieces of unicorn poop, which double as flywheel mounting bolts MG got three units. Footgoose got one too - and as we understand it, this is the end of production for these rare and controversial units for the 6-speed transmissions. Apparently, the limiting factor is the transmission input hub, which was made by Moto Guzzi - and they are not making any more of them. Furthermore, we understand that the RAM 5 speed clutch and the RAM 6 speed clutch are otherwise identical. If (and this is a fairly critical "if") that's true... and if it's true that RAM made the original single-plate clutches for Moto Guzzi... then (attempting an assumptive syllogism with a double back-if here) owners of Tennis, Rosso Mandellos, and the best motorcycles of all time (Scuras) who still have the problematic flywheel that goes with the OEM single-plate clutch can simply order a RAM 5 speed clutch assembly and use their existing transmission input hub. Further investigation awaits... I'll do a test fit on my spare engine and transmission before I break my Scura in half.

I was thinking this too. Easy way to test this is to wrap some electrical tape around them (between the clamps). My Scura started acting up as you described - I noticed some small cracks in the boots. I wrapped then with electrical tape - it cured it and the tape is still on there after many miles. Will replace the boots at next service (already have them). Of all people, Roy, I'm certain that you have some electrical tape.

Now, there's a fact-based debate I'd be interested to read - between two knowledgable and experienced guys who work in the industry, both of whom I respect. My only experience is: Scura - 100% stock mechanically. Has run perfectly for close to 12,000 miles. LeMans - unknown history, but had the Ti ECU and cans when I got it. It took me a while, but I got it running quite well without ever touching the map - but weirdly, that's with the temperature sensor disconnected (which is also how it was when I got it). No Lambda sensor on either bike. I haven't felt the need for the bikes to run differently. Maybe I'm lucky - or maybe I'm not too demanding.

I'm gonna have to make it to one of these someday. I enjoyed the "Not-a-Rally" I attended recently.

Stew - Conventional wisdom, and this forum's guidelines, are "Don't discuss religion and politics." But that sure is a historic event, it affects members, and it has the potential to harm more people and do more economic damage than any wildfire (2 of which burned in my area last week). I'm sorry about the effects of this on you, and I do think the country and the EU will figure out how to adjust in due time. Perhaps this action will spur some needed, although uncomfortable, changes in the UK and in the EU. Like we've learned about wildfires: that's actually the way many of our forests rejuvenate themselves. I think that when people feel frightened or threatened that they seek protection by banding together with others who are similar. This tribalistic trait has served the species well to get us this far, but we've created a complex, interdependent, global society that requires us to think on a much broader scale and far further into the future about the implications of our actions. Anyway - I feel a bit like I am "skirting the rules" of the forum by engaging in this conversation, and I'd be happy to continue via PM or e-mail. I see topics like this over on WildGuzzi sometimes. Some of them lend credence to the "Wild" part of the forum name. Then members get mad at each other and somebody leaves or gets kicked out of the forum - and then we all lose that person's passion and experience with motorcycles (which is the basis of our little "tribe"). Go for a ride.

Okay, I'm convinced....where's a good place to get 'em? FWIW - I've seen a few threads with electrical problems that were cured by installing new Omron relays. Very affordable from DigiKey and it's just nice to know that you're starting with all fresh relays.

Here are the page numbers of all pages with English language text, photos, or illustrations. You can copy the strings of pages and paste them into your print-dialogue box and print one section at a time. However, some strings have more characters than my print dialogue box would accept so I had to break it into sub-sections. V11 Sport Workshop Manual, Sections A-P, 412 pages This appears to be written for the early, red-frame sports (1999-2001), and covers the Rosso Mandello (so there is a picture of a single-plate clutch for Scura and Tenni owners). Download from ThisOldTractor Index 2,3,5,6,8,10 A – General Information 13,14,16,18 B – Model Features 21,22,24,26,28,30,32,35,36,38,39,40 C – Control and Use of the Motorbike 41,42,44,46,48,50,52,54,56,58 D – Scheduled Maintenance 61,62,64,66,68,70,72,74,76,78,80,82,84,86,88,90,92,94,96,98,100,102,104,106 E – Trimmings 109,110,112,114,116,118 F – Wheel Parts 121,122,124,126,128,130,132,134,136,138,140,142,144,146,148,149,150,152,154,156, 158,160,162,164,166,168,170 G – Controls 171,172,174,176,178,180 H – Chassis 181,182,184,186,188,189,190,191 I – Fuel System 193,194,196,198,200,202,204,206,208,210,212,214,216,218,220,222,224,226,228,230,232,234,236,238,240,242,244,246,248,250 L – Exhaust System 251,252,254,256 M – Engine 259,260,262,264,266,268,270,272,274,276,278,279,280,282,284,286,288,290,292,294,296,298,300,302,304,306,308,309,310,312,314,316,318,320,322,324,325,326,328,330,332,334 N – Gearbox 335,336,338,339,340,341,342,344,346,348,350,352,354,356,357,358,360,362 O – Rear Transmission Housing and Shaft 365,366,367,368,370,372,373,374 P – Electrical System 375,376,379,382,384,386,388,390,392,394,396,398,400,402,404,406,408,410 (NOTE: page 378 is double-size wiring diagram) Supplemental Manual, Sections Q and R, 208 pages This appears to cover all changes for 2003 and 2004, including Ohlins-equipped models. It also shows external fuel pump (2002) and internal fuel pump (2003) configurations. Download from ThisOldTractor Index 2,3,4,5,6,8,10,12 Q – V11 Sport Naked and V11 LeMans Variants: 15,16,18,20,22,24,26,28,30,32,34,36,38,40,42,44,46,48,50,52,54,56,58,60,64,67 (NOTE: page 63 is double-size wiring diagram) R – Variants 68,69,71,73,75,77,79,80,81,83,85,87,89,91,93,95,97,99,101,103,105,107,108,109,111,113,115,117,119,121,123,125,127,129,131,133,135,137,139,141,143,145,147,149,151,153,155,157,159,161,163,165,167,169,171,173,175,177,179,181,183,185,187,189,191,193,195,196,199,200,203,205,207 I printed the manual, the supplement, and a parts diagram (also available on ThisOldTractor). Double-sided, it all fit in a 1-1/2 inch D-ring binder. The original manual is about 50% of the volume; the supplement and the parts diagram are about 25% each. You can print the wiring diagrams on Tabloid (11x17) paper. Binder $10, ream of paper $10, toner price unknown... having it all in one place and easy to read... priceless.

I have the same mirrors, but with bar-end mounts, on my Scura. They are slightly convex and provide good visibility - so "objects are closer than they appear." I'm happy with them and would buy them again.

I had some similar symptoms on an R1100RT - the problem turned out to be that a tiny spring went AWOL from the kill switch (probably broke and worked its way out). Having just replaced a stator, I noticed how exposed the two yellow wires are to potential abrasion where they are zip-tied to the frame. The oil cooler and stainless lines are particular risks. I wonder if a small hole in the insulation of those wires could cause intermittent shorting out to ground and result in the symptoms you describe? I bring this up because I think you had the stator out within the last year.

MG Cycle has shipped the gaskets (and other special things). I'm expecting delivery on Monday and should be able to ship the balance of plates Tuesday. I have a few more kits available, send me a PM if interested.

Yes, ordered direct. I'm not aware of any US-based importer. They offer a carbon fiber version as well as the paintable, fiberglass one in the picture above.

Where's the Italian flag?

Test-fit the Ghezzi-Brian belly pan, which has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. Looks kind of good in white, but I think it will probably turn red later. I confess to nudging the hammer into the picture... Recently received the Ghezzi-Brian rear fender - got that installed too. The kit is easier to install now, because the mounting holes are pre-drilled in the fender. It still has it's imperfections (see this thread for discussion) but since it arrived from Italy in a re-used wine box wrapped in Moto Guzzi branded packing tape, that makes everything OK.

I looked at some videos on YouTube. Zinc plating looks pretty straightforward and non-toxic - you just need to find a bar/block of Zinc for the source material. Nickel plating looks like a lot of work and nasty chemicals. I haven't tried any plate-at-home methods - but I learned electrolysis by watching YouTube videos and it worked for me.

I've been trying to explain that to my children...

The sidestand bracket has two mounting holes. Upper: large hole for the large bolt that goes into the timing cover. Lower: smaller hole for a smaller bolt that goes into the upper oil sump ring. The plate, when installed, moves the upper sump ring down, by the thickness of the plate and one extra gasket. This causes a misalignment of the hole in the sidestand plate and the threads in the upper sump ring. Notice the brightest hole in the above picture and how the circles are not concentric. You need to elongate the lower hole (downward) so the bolt has a straight approach, through the bracket, into the threads in the upper ring. It will make sense when you have it your hands. I think this is the only "trick" to installation, unless you count this as a trick: raise the parts and gaskets toward the engine with two opposite-corner bolts sticking through to keep everything aligned. Elaborated?

Here is the alignment problem that the Roper Plate creates. A few minutes with a round file or a small grinding tool will take care of it. Elongate the lower hole so you will not bend the small, lower bolt when you torque down the large, top bolt.

New sidestand with fresh powdercoat. I've been waiting to install this till I got the Roper Plate. Also installed a sidestand switch. The PO had bypassed that switch, and the sidestand was missing the button that activates the switch. It had ground off when the bike was down - and I missed that on my pre-purchase inspection. I know a lot of people bypass this switch, and I guess it sometimes fails. But I did ride off one time with the stand down; fortunately I just nicked it on a mild left. I think I will shorten the wire on the plug from the old switch and keep it on the bike.

Or just get your fast idle lever adjusted - maybe with a new spring at the RH throttle body that gives you a good amount of (fore)play. Then you can turn up your idle with the lever for cold starts, stop-and-go riding, or whenever you want faster idle... and you can release it to enjoy your lumpy low-idle when you are cafe-racing.

Happy birthday. What a fabulous bike - a bit of a cult-classic. Those and the similar vintage Cagiva Gran Canyons always catch my eye. I think the Aprilia is probably the better bike, due to the Rotax motor. Go get it dirty!!!!

The parts will rust again if not coated in some way - and Victor, that's more ways of plating parts then I ever imagined. I've use electrolysis primarily to remove rust from things that I will paint - it's easier than grinding or scraping, removes all the rust, but none of the good material. It even removes rust from interior, or difficult to reach places, such as insides of springs or between teeth of gears. I probably did not need to remove the rust from the clutch parts, but rust is an abrasive and I feel good about assembling it without an abrasive between the gears and flywheel.

Yeah, busy... just trying to get the bikes in order so I can ride them for a while without further wrenching. For the belly pan, try Ghezzi-Brian. I got belly pans for the V11s from him - very good quality. http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/en/tuning-moto/tuning-moto-guzzi/griso/belly-pan/

[url=http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/v11com%20misc%20photos%20posted/LeMans%20Project Got mine in today. Cheers to Pete!

Thanks. It's getting better and better - can't wait to try out the new clutch. It pulls way firmer than it did before. Someday I will get around to learning GuzziDiag... too busy with major mechanical issues lately. Last weekend front and rear brakes on the truck. Scura is up for a clutch next. I need a good, long ride. For suspension - go to the Reference Section of this site, then Fileshare, then Öhlins manuals, then download the pdf for the front fork or rear spring. You'll see a section in there about setting spring pre-load. It has excellent illustrations about how to measure sag - then you adjust preload to try to get sag to be within correct range.

I like my old, comfortable tools. But I also like it when a job requires the purchase of a new tool (so long as it's not crazy-expensive) and I get to use it for the first time. Today I enjoyed the Clutch Spring Compressor from MG Cycle - worked great and it was much less expensive than the Moto Guzzi tool. And I used all three stands/lifts at the same time - front wheel chock, swingarm lift, and the platform jack. I really like the platform jack. I got it recently and I wonder now how I managed without it. It made engine removal and installation about as easy as it can get. [url=http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/v11com%20misc%20photos%20posted/LeMans%20Project