Scud

Aircraft Stripper is the ticket! I think Chuck recommended that. I used Rust-Oleum brand. BBCode (replace photobucket's img with this in your post) And the crinkle paint is gone from the back end and the timing chest (which is a total PITA). The spare final drive is from my 2002 parts bike - so it's clear that the original paint is not only a problem on the engine.

Good point. I will get those seals and see what other little bits might be needed.

Tempting, and more durable, as powdercoating is - the problem is that the parts get sandblasted and baked at high temperature. That means every bearing and seal has to come out. So if you don't mind a total tear down, it's fine, but I am also going to strip and spray the engine case (without tear-down) and would like the cases to have exactly the same finish. I already powdercoated the alternator cover, swingarm, lower subframe, and driveshaft collars. Benefit of a parts bike is that you can send stuff off for powdercoating and keep it on the shelf till you're ready to install. Back to paint... I've been using VHT satin black engine case paint on my BMW. It gives a really nice finish, very close to the flat black powdercoat. For example, I sprayed this bell housing in place. The crank cover was powdercoated - and you can see how neglected it was when it followed me home.

Thanks to everyone for all the help and discussion. Where else can you get advice from so many helpful and knowledgeable people? Norway to Nashville. Finland to Fotoguzzi. To Andy's questions: My tranny is out and 100% intact. Pictures in this thread during process are from people who were showing me how to take it apart. My plan of attack is: Degrease Strip paint (good riddance to wrinkle paint) Remove preselector (and rebuild) Remove rear cover Remove main case (shafts and gears stay with intermediate case). I think this is the only step where I will need a special tool to remove the input hub. Inspect for cracks/source of leak(s) - address if needed/possible Paint Reassemble with Threebond 1211 (it's equivalent to all the the other sealants that everyone likes, I already have a tube, and last, but by no means least.... I think I will be able to swear more profusely if I use what Pete recommends.) Carefully torque everything to spec (and be patient before adding lube and reinstalling on bike). I'll report findings/progress as events warrant.

That would be great. PM sent.

Oh - now I understand. I assumed it would be easier to remove the small cover, but instead, it's easier to pull the larger case off. So I would need to remove the input hub (the part that mates to the clutch disc) - no special tool for that? The shop manual only describes a complete tear-down, not the minimum steps needed to fix a leak.

But the shop manual shows restraining ring nuts (Labeled I and L) require a special tool. How do you remove these?

OK - the pre-selector and the rear cover can be removed with "normal tools" - but special tools are required for removing the cast part #2 in the above parts diagram. I think the shop manual references 7 special tools for use on the transmission. It would be nice to have a "community" set that we could shuffle around. The tools are expensive from Moto Guzzi. Rolf, do you make and sell these tools, or do you have the MG tools? The crinkle paint is really thick, difficult to clean, and yes, it would probably obscure a crack (if there is one). Don't worry about raining on the parade. I only want to fix this once - so all information is potentially useful. I suppose the next step is to remove the two "easy" covers, strip the paint, and re-assess. Oh sad day, the Scura's gonna be out of service for a while...

The fast idle should be the same as opening the throttle a little. It is totally mechanical, not electrical.

Threebond is like Yamabond. Pete Roper mentioned it as his sealant of choice. There's a white, slow-drying (1211) and a grey, more tacky, quick-drying (1184). I think the 1211 and Loctite 518 are equivalent products. Here's a labeled version to help with orientation/discussion. The oil was all hiding behind the starter, shock reservoir etc. - and dripping onto the crossover, so I didn't notice it until I removed all that stuff. If I was clever, I would have found it earlier, cleaned it, and done some foot-powder leak-sleuthing. I'm pretty sure that it is not leaking from the pre-selector cover. And here's the diagram that shows how the cases go together (other pages show all the gears and bearings) A leak at label 1 in the diagram would be pretty easy to address. But a leak at label 2 requires almost a full tear-down of the tranny and several special tools to remove gears between part numbers 2 and 3. I thought my 12,000 mile service would be a "major" one due to clutch replacement. I already planned to remove the pre-selector for a rebuild/improvement but this takes it to a whole new level of "major."

I cleared a few things out of the way so it would be easy to replace the crankcase breather hose and speedometer cable.

From what I can surmise, the leak is from one or both of the rear seals. It only migrates down the left side, not the right. It's definitely gear oil. After looking at the shop manual, removing the rear cover looks simple, but removing the thin case that goes to the main case appears to require several special tools to remove several gears. So... anybody been into one of these? Maybe somebody has the special tools that I could borrow? Or is this job for a professional? The orange silicone seems to be a problem - maybe Threebond 1211 would be better? Not what I was hoping to find...

Here's the RAM on the left and the original single-plate on the right. You can see how the steel flywheel's mass is more centralized, because it has three arms, rather than being a disc. This is true for the friction plate too (as you can see in my earlier post). One significant difference between the RAM and original - the RAM comes pre-centered and can be installed like that (and I do not need to take it apart). The original's friction plate covers the flywheel bolts, so the clutch must be disassembled for installation or removal. The RAM install (at least on a bike that originally had a single-plate clutch) should be nothing more than 6 bolts. FWIW - the original aluminum flywheel did 12,000 miles in my Scura and shows no sign of cracking. Maybe it will become collectible one day...

FWIW - I got my engine out and flywheel removed in about 4 hours. It takes longer to re-assemble, so I agree that 12 hours is a reasonable estimate. Here are the three clutch options: Used OEM from Scura with Aluminum Flywheel: 9lb. 13.7 oz New RAM unit with Steel Flywheel: 10lb. 10.6oz Used OEM twin-plate: 12lb. 1.2oz It's gonna be a while till I get the RAM installed - doing lots of other stuff at the same time. However, I test-fit the RAM on the Scura transmission hub. It fits the same as the original clutch.

Just a matter of time... because the stripper works in 15 minutes. I'm inclined to eradicate the crinkle finish - engine, transmission, driveshaft collars, final drive, and reaction rod. @Paul - I can weigh them both later. edit: posted weights in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19510&page=4&do=findComment&comment=214116

OEM Part Name: Hydraulic Bleeders - for clutch slave and brake calipers Moto Guzzi Part Number: Replacement Part Brand or Source: SpeedBleeder Part number or other identifier: Clutch and Rear Brake - SB1010S M10x1.0 Front Brake Calipers - SB8125 M8x1.25 Differences from OEM (if any): these are one-way valves that make bleeding very speedy (a well-named product). The OEM bleeder for the clutch looks a little different than one for the rear brake, but the same replacement part fits both applications. Thanks to Craig for doing the research on these. I've had them for a while, but just installed all 4 today. OEM clutch bleeder (left) has flat bottom. SpeedBleeder (right) has conical bottom.

...but maybe I spoke too soon. I was so pre-occupied with the engine oil leaks that I didn't notice that the transmission also has an oil leak. I think (hope) it's from the output cover and not something deeper. One swingarm bearing is bad (but I've got a freshly powdercoated one with new bearings ready to take over). She's damn near down to the spine and wiring harness at this point. And the little rubber vibration dampers? They just spin right apart, don't they?

Where? I don't see a Rosso Corsa. Pictures - or it didn't happen. My Guzzi buys were local. But I flew San Diego to San Jose for business and rode a brick home. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19273&hl=brick

Thanks, it's a bit of an obsession... I'm still using the original grips. They are quite thin and there is no bump in the bars, so I'm not sure what you've got now. But grips are pretty standard and you should be able to use almost any grips you like. For the manual, check the fileshare section on this website. Lots of other goodies there too, including the Ohlins manuals. I like having a hard copy on the table while I'm working, so I recently printed the whole thing. I kept track of what pages had English or pictures. This thread has all those page numbers: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19504&hl=

Maybe you could find an internal fuel pump, re-route your fuel lines, and remove the pump and filter from the frame. If not, you'll need to drill into the tank for a petcock and a pressure regulator. When you have them side by side, you'll know what to do. The fuel doors are the same - so no worries there.

I’ve had the Scura about 2 years now and done about 12,000 miles with her. But I haven’t been riding it much lately because I’ve been scared that the exploding flywheel countdown might be in the last few clicks. After sitting unused for 12 years with previous owner, I converted it from living room art to kinesthetic art. I thought I might have real problems with seals and gaskets, but I’ve only experienced the stuff that’s pretty common to the V11 series: Cracked breather hose Timing chest gasket leak Cam position sensor o-ring leak Cracked throttle body boots Broken speedometer cable 2002 models problems: The nasty bubbling engine paint. The engine cases are the worst, but I can see it starting to spread to the transmission. I’ve started stripping the paint, and now I'm thinking about stripping the tranny too – and going with a smooth (not textured) satin black finish. The shift springs have held up - but I'm going to do pre-emptive replacement. And the unique “Scura Problems” Forks – The Scura was undersprung for most (but was OK for me) – and some said I should replace the fork seals immediately due to sitting for so long. Well, 12,000 miles later, the 14-year old fork seals are still holding, but I can see just a hint of oil on the forks – and it’s time for an oil change anyway. So may as well do seals now – and maybe new springs. And the big Scura Scare-a? The dread aluminium flywheel. It’s out and there is no sign of distress - probably could have gone a while longer. But the (slightly heavier) RAM fits the Scura’s transmission input gear perfectly and the steel flywheel should go the distance. So there's what I'll be working on for a while - along with fluids and filters and adjustments and a good cleaning and various and sundry add-ons...

Happy birthday indeed. I hope you and the Sport are out enjoying it.

For reals? You can actually tell the difference when riding? I have read a few positive things about this tensioner on this forum (and that's why I bought it). But pulling bolts out of the main seal cover makes me nervous (just new territory for me). The picture is a HUGE help. I have a couple rubber-tipped clamps that should serve the purpose. I'm feeling a little chicken too. More coaching needed... Can the sprockets only go back on one way - or is there a chance that I could mess up the timing if I do it wrong? Special tools needed? For example, do I need gear pullers? I don't have any pullers, but always willing to consider buying new tools.

I'm planning to use Permatex blue gasket dressing, which I think is the equivalent of the Hylomar. I got a beefier gasket too. Here's a link to the chain tensioner on MG Cycle's site: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_126&products_id=347

I've got mine off - the paper gasket was torn and is obvious source of a leak - along with a crusty O-ring on the cam position sensor. I thought I might replace the tensioner while I was in there and bought this part from MG Cycle. But this doesn't look right - I mean I can't see how it would even fit. The Scura's engine has only 12,000 miles and runs well - so I'm OK with the "if ain't broke don't fix it" approach. But I'm curious if anyone has used this tensioner - and if it would be worth the effort to install now that I'm this far into it for the seal (and clutch... and...)