Scud

Just piling on... don't convert the Tenni to track use (for all of the above reasons). But how cool to have #1 and #3. If you're a rider, not a collector, then at some point a collector will want to give you more than it's worth to you as a rider. Then you could buy the LeMans of your choice and still have a fine rider and some leftover cash.

Not a V11, but Griso for $2,500. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/6215320455.html

Thanks for that website. I just scrolled through it and noticed that they sell a new transmission case (I mention it, since it you had to weld yours recently.) @Blight - the Sport is looking sweet. Will be fun to see it in red. My transmission case was never welded.... what gives? That comment was directed at LowRyter, who went through a rough process getting his cracked case welded. Pardon the confusion and off-topic post. Keep up the good work on your project.

Thanks for that website. I just scrolled through it and noticed that they sell a new transmission case (I mention it, since it you had to weld yours recently.) @Blight - the Sport is looking sweet. Will be fun to see it in red.

I have a RH from a 2002 (no crossover) and a pair from an early Sport with the "Crown" type of flanges and the little insert bits.

Get yourself a pdf of the spare parts diagram (see fileshare section of this forum). Go into Section C (pages C13 and C14 specifically) for the details of the transmission. There are four selector cogs - attached to the four shift arms. Two are single-sided (part number 8 with cogs on one side and flat on the other) - two are double-sided (part number 2 with cogs on both sides). So there are six faces with cogs that engage each of the six drive gears (labeled in diagram on those pages). In neutral, none of the cogs are engaged. When you study the diagram, you can see which cog engages which gear. If you manually engage more than one gear at a time the tranny will lock up (as you experienced). Armed with that diagram, you should be able to run through all the gears just by moving the cogs by hand. If you can't then you have a potentially serious problem. But if you can shift through all gears, the problem is probably with the pre-selector and you should consult the "shift-improvement" thread.

And I think Benelli also copied the Honda 350-Four engine (which was my first motorcycle). Looks like three carbs on the Benelli-6. Careful on placing too much credibility on the price the "first-winner" was going to pay. Shill-bidding is sometimes used to drive up perceived value and re-list the bike. If it's in town and you really want it, go visit with cash in hand.

That's a helluva lotta clutch command cylinders. The used one started it's life on Unkept's Champagne LeMans... got replaced in my garage... visited Andy for a while... and now it's with the good doctor. What a long strange trip it's been... Careful with the acid; don't drop it.

That's a cool vintage bike - not too many inline 6 bikes around. Was it made before or after the Honda CBX?

Do what Czakky says first. If that doesn't solve it, here's a little more guidance on looking at the tranny: By disassembled, do you mean you have removed the side cover (shift pre-selector) from the tranny - but the rest of the bike is intact? If so, get the rear wheel off the ground and move the shift arms on the shafts so you can see how they engage each gear. It will take a little studying - perhaps of the parts manual illustration of the gears - but you should be able to put it in each gear manually. You'll also want to take the spark plugs out so you can turn the wheel while it's in gear and see what's going on in there - might need two people. A wheel turner and a gear watcher.

Just send an e-mail to info@grimeca.it If you click the UK flag, the website changes to English.

Hey, that reminds me of something. I had a dragging brake on my truck. The problem turned out to be in the brake line. A little flap had developed inside the line, just enough to act like a one-way valve. Replaced the flexible lines with new stainless and the drag went away.

I posted over on WG too - but thanks again for coordinating this. So many great loops of varying lengths can started from that location. Desert? check. Mountains? check. Beach? check. Mexico? check. All in a day's ride.

Thanks. That leaves 2 available from me - plus whatever Mike Haven might still have on-hand.

Get the rear wheel up and move the selector rings until you can rotate the rear wheel. Then it's in neutral. If you look closely while you move those rings, you can see how they engage - and disengage - the gears. Then get your preselector to neutral, I think first is where the dots on the gears align, then neutral is one click up. Dry fit it to be sure. you can even put the level on temporarily and run it through the gears as you rotate the rear wheel. Make sure everything is in neutral before you apply sealant. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20021&p=222646

The pep-talk is working... Took out the injectors and used MartyNZ's fabulous injector cleaner again. New fuel hose and the good injection clamps. Repainted all the silver parts on the rear drive (VHT Cast Aluminum Engine Enamel and VHT Engine Gloss Clear Coat). The new paint is closer to the original silver of the wheels. And this 180 tire needs to come off... Hard to tell in this photo, but the sidewall is at a weird angle.

I know where there are some viable options... a green one and a champagne one... both just need a little more love. Hey - I'm also wondering about the focus on the clutch slave's seal. Of course, I haven't felt what you are describing, but I have had a leaky slave cylinder on a dirt bike - you lose pressure and fluid. In the case of the dirt bike, the fluid "disappeared" into the engine oil. But with the V11, it would dribble out the opening in the rear case of the transmission. You have previously reported a very noisy clutch. Perhaps you are trying to avoid pulling the engine or transmission, but it seems that's going to need some attention soon. Has there been so much wear in the flywheel that the plates are getting bound up and not allowing the clutch to re-engage? That could also explain what you are feeling - and seems more likely to me than a sticky piston.

Like GStallons says, service and adjust the linkage first. The pivot bolt can get gummed up or overtight, which restricts movement. Also, the forward part of the linkage can jam between the gearbox and the starter if the bolt loosens or is installed backwards. Also check the small arm at the front of the linkage to see if the pinch bolt has worked loose. If that lever slides on the shaft, it can also jam in the starter. Maybe take the starter out, which gives you a clear view of what's going on and easier access to all the linkage. If if shifts with the starter out, you've found the problem. If not, you needed to take the starter out anyway to remove the pre-selector from the gearbox (that's where the springs live). FWIW - A broken pawl spring results in a floppy lever, not a stuck lever.

Your Coppa Italia will thank you. PM sent with details. That leaves 3 plates available.

Ad-bump. I still have some plates available.

Have you tried wearing some padded bicycle shorts on longer rides? That's a cheap, quick, and easy solution that works for me.

Here are the other food groups. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha not Mongolia. That's the Owens River Valley in California, just North of Lake Crowley. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Love my truck. Happy 4th of July to American members.