Scud

Nothing is easy if the contact is poor.

I much prefer visiting the elves than exorcising the gremlins... On the dielectric grease issue - everyone's got to make their own decision when there is a topic with so much conflicting information and knowledgeable people holding opinions on both sides. I've decided that dielectric grease, such as DC4 is fine to use in electrical connections - not only fine, but preferred. I have been persuaded by: Well-researched arguments like the one Marty posted Use in many industries, including aviation My own experience This reminds me of another controversial topic where I was persuaded by data. A lot of people say it's OK to use WD-40 to clean brake calipers. Docc and GStallons warned me about it and encouraged me to soak a caliper seal in WD-40 to see what happened. I did and it swelled by 40% - which would undoubtedly freeze a piston. No more WD-40 near my brakes.

It was the faint click.

Progress report. Battery voltage at rest: 12.85v (it was on charger night before last, ridden 10 miles yesterday, parked overnight without charger) For comparison - 1-month old Odyssey in Scura reads 12.83 Battery problem ruled out. Relays up next... because Docc kindly sent along some of the supercalifragilisitic up-rated OMRONs, which just arrived - and because that's the next-easiest thing to do. I didn't expect any difference, because I had all new OMRONs in there already - and they were the previously-best-known model.... and to my surprise, (and embarrassment)... the front relay came out much easier than the others. With high hopes I noticed that one of my new relays had the three-prongs already bent-in a bit, so I popped that in the front (which made a nice, tight fit), and also replaced the other 4 with the newbies. Moment of truth.... it just started flawlessy 10 times in a row. And.... the headlight flicker is gone.... And.... I had not previously mentioned another symptom, which was that the high-beam was not working. And... the high beam now works. And... holy crap I was ready to spend the better part of day on this. And... it's time to go for a celebratory rip through the Elfin Forest. I've seen many other people's problems almost magically solved by new relays. So add me to the list. And thanks to everyone for the trouble-shooting tips, I have mixed feelings about not needing most of them. Sorry for all the work you put into writing the tips - but STOKED that I didn't have to do all that. By the way - I put DC-4 on the tips of each prong on the relays before I pushed them into their bases. Please carry on with the dielectric grease discussion....

I'd like to read that, but the link gives me a "page not found" error.

Thanks gentlemen. I'll do some lubricating and wiggling... and I'm sure we can keep our innuendo to respectable level... And Roy, I'll go through the tests and report as I do. I believe all connections are clean and lubricated - I used vaseline when I last worked on this bike. But I will inspect/tighten. On the lube issue, I have some of that Lubriplate stuff. Since it was not available for direct export to NZ, I helped Marty with his grey-market import and got a tube for myself. I did all the connections on my Scura with the DC-4... so far so good. Many dirt-bikers (self-included), who occasionally submerge their motorcycles, use dielectric grease to waterproof electrical connections. It's no fun to short-out and stall during a water crossing. I too am suspicious of the headlight bulb. The installation of the LED was painfully tight and I was concerned that it might not have been adequately ventilated in the small plastic bucket (I has to cut out a lot plastic from the plastic-chrome reflector back to even get it to close. I rode it to work today, that was fun. Too much BMW commuting lately - started easy this morning, but took three times on the starter button to get it to turn over - and then started easy. It always starts eventually - not been stranded yet.

Gave it an 8amp AGM-mode charge with a BatteryMinder charger. Had a weak starter engagement, followed by a good one that worked. Headlight still flickering. Rode to work... makes Friday a little more fun... been commuting exclusively on the BMW lately. Anyway - I cleaned and lubed (with vaseline) the ignition switch and starter button a few months ago, that didn't make any noticeable difference. I'll chase down the other ideas this weekend. I have these parts available: New electrosport ESR515 voltage regulator Complete new headlight (the one on the bike is cracked) And Docc - you mentioned it would nice if charging was at 14.2. Is that because that's what the Odyssey specifies - or because that's what the V11 is supposed to produce?

I have used silicone spray and Tri-Flow (a bicycle chain lube). I think the Tri-Flow may be a little better.

I've got some electrical problems that are making it hard to enjoy my 2003 LeMans - and I am not riding it at night because of them. Symptoms: Headlight - it flickers, most notably at about 2,000 RPM. It has totally turned off while riding at night on 2 occasions. This was only for a few seconds till it came back on - on it's own - without touching any switches. The headlight is an LED that I got from GuzziTech. I was very happy with it for several months, then noticed the flickering, then the outage. Starting - I have an intermittent hard start. It goes like this - press starter button, just hear a little click and nothing else. Keep holding button in... and then the starter turns slowly and the bike starts. This is probably a 1 in 10 experience. 9 times out of 10 it starts like it should (and starter turns faster). Electrical system is totally stock except for: 30-amp Maxi fuse holder Battery tender cable LED rear turn signals Speedhut gauges LED Headlight Omron 5-pin relays in all 5 positions Battery is Odyssey PC545, less than 2 years old. Docc sent me some battery "homework" and here are the results: Key off (hadn't run for 3 days, and before that only one short errand in the previous 2 weeks): 12.6v Key on after about a minute with headlight on: 12.0v During cranking: 10.8v At about 1,250 RPM idle: 13.8v Af 2,000+ RPM 13.9v FWIW - I started it 5 times during my little homework assignment just now - and it started perfectly every time. Of course, it doesn't misbehave while I'dm trying to diagnose. It seems like I should replace the headlight with a standard unit, and clean up all the wiring harness connections... but I'm still not a proficient electrician. What else, and in what order, would you electrical counselors recommend?

For on-bike cleaning I just used throttle body cleaner spray, a toothbrush, and paper towels to wipe out the worst of it. A little compressed air can help at the end. Take the air bypass screws out so you clean the passages and the screws, which can get gummy and mess up your idle. I'd be hard pressed to claim that it made a difference... but I think it's good preventative maintenance. While you're there... It's worth cleaning and lubricating the linkage and the springs under the TBs.

That cracks me up. I have shared this experience... and tales are oft-repeated as evidence of my incorrigible immaturity... But she has come to accept that bearings, races, and other small parts may visit the freezer on occasion. And the candy apple red... yeah it fits the champagne bodywork, but it's BOLD. My 60-year old Harley-riding neighbor nearly teared up when I had him carry the alternator cover out of the garage and into the sun. Then I heard about things that were candy-apple red in his life... and some things he always wanted. Quite a good time really. Maybe I should look into a cheap, used oven for the garage.

All this talk about IR heat guns left me with a little "gun envy." So I just bought an entry-level unit for 13 dollars (which seems somehow relevant to this thread...) Gonna use it to try to bake the brake caliper paint on the fork bottoms at the correct temperature.

Source of leak discovered, new seal installed. Saved at least $200 for 30 minutes of work (compared to having appliance repair service.) I can fix it. We now return to our regularly scheduled motorcycle show.

I'd like to know more about that bare aluminium treatment process too.

Fixed it for ya. That is a CLEAN GREEN MACHINE.

Thanks, she's coming together nicely - and I've noticed quite a few new parts that you installed. How's Germany? Spring must be on it's way... and riding all over Europe must be on your mind. Your earlier post, where you confirmed that it was Redline heavy in the transmission, got deleted in a server-update. I bet you are glad to have missed seeing that mess in person.

I'm not sure they're "supposed" to be that tight, but I like 'em like Bob Seger says... "way up firm and high" (no innuendo at all). It took me a few attempts, I think I finally got it when all parts were loose, then, like footgoose said, I snugged up the exhaust hangers first and worked to the heads. After getting it all snug (but not tight) I could still move it a little - then to final tightening.

Thanks - maybe I am being a little to playful in the posts here... I do actually read, and follow the instructions on the can. Primer 2 light coats and one medium wet coat - each separated by 10 mins. Wait 30 mins, then apply 3 coats color in same process. I've even been setting a timer between coats. But I have not paid attention to the heat curing instructions in past (I think I probably stopped reading the instructions too soon). So the heat curing is my big recent lesson, thanks to you guys. Good news is... I tested this VHT caliper and case paint on my K75s before I applied it to the Guzzis. I did not do any heat curing on that bike and it's holding up quite well. And now that I've started painting cases again, there are few more to go...

This is as high and tight as I could get it without using any innuendo. Look how far the end of the swingarm is from the tire on the right, compared to the left. The Guzzi definitely hangs to the right.

Thanks Marty, I see you edited your post to answer my question. I sure appreciate that you read the instructions and offer up ideas. Portable heater on the way, along with a giant seal for a front-load washing machine... apparently, if I can rebuild a motorcycle, I can rebuild a washing machine.

That looks like great ride. Last time I had my LeMans in Flagstaff I went for breakfast in Payson, which is almost at the Northermost point of your loop. Those mountain roads in AZ are amazing. Do you ever ride up to Show Low? https://www.google.com/maps/dir/E+McDowell+Rd+%26+N+Ellsworth+Rd,+Mesa,+AZ+85207/Claypool,+AZ/Jakes+Corner+Bar,+Arizona+188,+Payson,+AZ/E+McDowell+Rd+%26+N+Ellsworth+Rd,+Mesa,+AZ+85207/@33.2961421,-111.8043702,7.82z/data=!4m31!4m30!1m5!1m1!1s0x872bbaed486a351f:0x6b5e672bacdee5c0!2m2!1d-111.6318033!2d33.4620068!1m10!1m1!1s0x87299d886629ac61:0xdc01d214c86c4a3f!2m2!1d-110.8426113!2d33.4111659!3m4!1m2!1d-110.0624223!2d34.2376923!3s0x872f334f33df7d8b:0x986b4c162b410ed!1m5!1m1!1s0x872bf7bca4358ff7:0xdaca895515f7afdb!2m2!1d-111.3200231!2d34.0103507!1m5!1m1!1s0x872bbaed486a351f:0x12d01bdf3bc29d7a!2m2!1d-111.6316576!2d33.4619726!3e0

SH - Hell of a week. But great attitude. I'm pulling for you.

There's directions? No, I didn't cure it, but I was gonna hit with a heat gun before I bolt up anything. I used it on some calipers and forks on my BMW without heating it at all and it's holding up fine on the calipers - although the forks are sitting in the corner now, but that's another story. In fact... you just make out those BMW forks in the top left of the second picture. Not sure how you would otherwise heat assembled forks - maybe a radiant heater aimed at them for a while?

Bench full of bits. And it seems the transmission covers jumped in front of some paint. Freshly powdered fairing bracket and top triple clamp - awaiting a new aguila. Thought I'd clean the ignition switch, but broke it trying to take it apart. Luckily, I had another, which was in better shape anyway. But now that I see the picture, it's gonna bug me if the letters are not at the top... easy fix. And the fork bottoms needed some love - courtesy of VHT Brake Caliper paint. But the coolest thing that happened today (at least motorcycle-wise) was when I came out of the hardware store (needed some stainless screws for the TPS). I saw about a 10 year old boy by my LeMans in the parking lot and heard his mom say "don't touch it." Then he sort of went around the whole bike with his hands about 2 inches off it, following the curves. Fun to watch. When I got closer to him, I asked "Do you like it?" His eyes got huge and he just had a love-struck look on his face. He's gonna have a motorcycle someday.

Yeah - I figured I'd zip-tie the coil bracket to the frame. It keeps the pressure on the dampers, so even if the glue fails I think it will stay in place. The upper two are easy to zip-tie. The bottom one would be harder to zip-tie, but it already gets pushed forward by the breather hose. They're sitting firm now. And the project is starting to come together. It felt good to get the frame back in order. The candy-apple red felt like a bit of a risk, but I really like it. It looks really different in every kind of light. I know a lot people name their motorcycles (or cars). I've never done that. But IF I were name this one, she'd be Candy-O. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxB8Z7GL6yc