Scud

That is sort of funny that this obsessively dark thread has eluded your detection. Hello darkness my old friend... I've come to talk to you again...

Yes, that is clearly my fault. As restitution, I will send you the brake reservoir from Joe's bike. I might have a brake lever too - let me dig around. Yeah, fire is bad. I happened to drive by Moto Forza today, the Ducati/Husqvarna dealer where I got my Ohlins forks and shocks rebuilt recently. It was all fenced off. As I drove by, it was clear there had been a fire. Just looked up the news... http://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/communities/north-county/sd-me-escondido-fire-update-20170212-story.html There were some very special motorcycles in there (including a MH900e), not just the new inventory. So... we DO all have fire extinguishers in our workshops... right?

No pressure - I was just curious.

When my LeMans clutch started slipping, I replaced the 2 friction discs and the intermediate plate. Upon removal and inspection it seemed that the plates still had some life left in them. I also noticed that the old springs were much weaker than the new springs I installed. I think I could have gotten more life out of the clutch just by installing new springs. They are $2.00 each at MG Cycle. Since you have it out, you might think about some new springs. BTW - I used aftermarket friction discs, also from MG Cycle, which apparently are a bit thicker than stock. This has caused a clutch-release problem - but more on that later when I am ready to attack it.

...and how were the steering bearings? My Scura's bearings were almost dry. Did you find whatever was causing the little problem in your steering? Careful on that slope...

Noble... That sounds like a good decision. For future reference, the injectors can be very difficult to remove. I destroyed 3 of 4 screws taking them out of my Scura. The injectors can be cleaned while still in the throttle bodies. If you pull the tank, you can disconnect the fuel lines from the injectors and pull the TBs off the head. Then you can attach the cleaner spray to the inlet and stuff a towel in the TB to absorb the spray-through. On the seafoam - in addition to running some in the tank, I also let the engine suck some seafoam through the vacuum ports (where you connect to check the balance). You do this when the engine is hot. It supposed to clean out the valves and combustion chamber. There are lots of videos on YouTube about it. I made a T out of plastic hose and added a little valve so I could control how much was getting sucked into the ports.

I agree with checking/replacing relays as a first step to address the stalling issue. A problem will often have multiple small factors that contribute to it. One thing that hasn't been mentioned for Owen's problem is the rear brake. Do you use the rear brake when you downshift? Have you cleaned the rear caliper or flushed the fluid recently? If you are applying pressure to a sticky rear brake while downshifting and losing engine power it could contribute to a temporary wheel lock. And how about the rear wheel bearings? Are they in good condition?

Throwout bearing is cheap - it's just that little roller bearing in my picture. You can get at it when the clutch slave is out. New clutch... well... is it slipping? If not, why replace it?

Those and the D-type jags are so awesome. Nice little rip around Mulholland Drive and Pacific Coast Highway too. Which Guzzi is in the garage? It's next to a Ducati PS1000LE, and an adventure bike.

Most motorcycle dealers are closed Sunday and Monday here. Tomorrow is Valentines Day. Go get your sweetie something special at the Ducati dealer. Oh... and maybe get something for you wife too.

Fabulous Chuck. FWIW - I bought 2 liters of that oil. Then when I decided to have a shop do the work I gave them all my supplies. They returned my 2nd liter with about 900ml remaining. That's why I had a bottle handy to take a picture for you earlier.

The top one is this photo is the one I mentioned - it sat idle for a few years too. You can see the rust on the piston and small chrome part it touches. The bottom one was salvaged from my parts bike - and I plan to use that one. I can probably pop the pistons out of both on Wednesday evening - and we'll see if something can work for you. You gonna put in a new throwout bearing while you're there?

This is essentially my point as well. The major wheel alignment is done be the frame and how all the big pieces bolt up. By the time you install the swingarm, there is only a small amount of free play between the porkchops - not nearly enough to alter alignment. IMO, the process of measuring how far the pivot pins stick out of the porkchops is an unnecessary step that produces no perceptible benefit, but also does no harm (unless it was poorly installed at first, then the measurements would replicate the original error).

Andy - I have the one my champagne project available. It had 50,000 miles, but the piston surface got corroded. I haven't disassembled it, but maybe the seals are still good. I'll be home Wednesday and can take a look if you haven't found new seals by then. If I recall correctly, Dangerous had to replace those seals - you might search his threads.

It does look like a puzzle. Since you're so far in, you could remove the engine and transmission and give everything a good inspection. That looks like a lot of old oil behind the right cylinder. If it's leaking out of the base gaskets, you might need to re-torque the cylinder heads. It's least likely to be something major like a rear main seal. And more likely to be something simple that you will discover as you go through it. On the swingarm alignment... we were just discussing that on another thread. I have offered a contrarian opinion. All the same, you may as well measure it before you take it out. You're so far in that you should at least inspect the swingarm bearings - and replace if needed. And pop the driveshaft off and give it thorough clean and lube. You'll just have to ride the BMW for a while...

That one's "the bomb."

A friend of mine told me about him, so I started listening on YouTube. When I noticed that he had a new album coming out, I pre-ordered it. He has such a fabulous, powerful voice. A baritone, I think, maybe a tenor. Have another:

Try browsing through the gallery. I don't think there have been many repaints. I was just thinking that the Tenni fairing would probably look good on the silver bike. Maybe no re-paint needed. Break out the tools and let's see how she looks.

An alternative TPS would make a good entry for our burgeoning encyclopedia of compatible parts - by somebody who has actually done it.

I have no insider information... but I did happen across this picture... The only things that appear to be missing are: turn signals, license plate, me.

Have you ever considered one of those zip-up motorcycle storage bags?

It's hard to say for sure from pictures, but you certainly should replace the hose. The hose can be dry on the outside and still cause a problem inside the bell-housing, here's how. Any oil that get between the metal pipe and the rubber hose will go into the bell housing. So if the hose clamp is loose, or there are small internal cracks in the hose, oil can flow outside the tube instead of inside it. When it goes inside (like it's supposed to) it is returned to the sump. When it goes outside the tube (but inside the hose), it will go into the bell housing. If you have not yet cleaned the engine, you could run a cotton swab between the metal tube and the case - go all around the outside of the tube inside the case. If it comes back oily, you know the hose was problem. If it comes back dry - that might be inconclusive if it's been sitting for a while.

The Husky is fun on the street. I whipped through about 30 miles of asphalt including a fun little canyon before draining the oil and swapping tires. I run serious off-road tires that wear quickly on asphalt, so I do stay away from the asphalt when the knobbies are fresh and sharp - but almost every dirt ride includes a little asphalt. I did a good hour on asphalt on the ride back from Grand Canyon that started this thread. Short freeway runs are fine - but depends on gearing. My 510 Husky would do over 100MPH, but then I geared it down so I wouldn't have to slip the clutch so much in technical terrain. Just say no to the KLR 250. You will wring it's spindly little neck and not be happy. A Suzuki DRZ 400 or Honda XR 400 (if you can find one with a license plate) would be a better start. Those are powerful enough to spend a little time on the street and still be competent dirt bikes that are light enough to pick up. There's always the Guzzi Quota to consider... that'll munch miles and would probably do fine on dirt roads and easy trails.

I feel similarly. I'm trusting my life to my own work. So I want it done correctly. Centered is the goal, right? I just lack a good way to measure the clearance between the swingarm and the inside of the porkchop. But I bet I get it very close to center by feel. I've seen posts where people measure how much the pin sticks out of the porckhop and try to replicate that on assembly. But that just puts it back how it was - and does not guarantee that the pins are snug against the bearing's inner races, nor does it pay attention to alignment. If was off center to start, it will be off-center again.

Well, it looks like we answered BBoles' question, so let's talk swingarm alignment. I'm all for doing it right, and willing to learn if I've missed something... and I just happen to have one off the bike that I can play with. I just put the swingarm between the porkchops. With fingers instead of pivot pins, it has a small amount of lateral play. I estimate this as 2 to 3 mm (I had a ruler out to look at, but no third hand to take the measurement.) The pivot pin has to go through the porkchops until the lip at the base of the threads contacts the inner race of the swingarm bearing. Therefore when both pins are in, the swingarm is held in place laterally by the pressure of the 2 pins - and those pins are secured by the big chrome nuts outside the porkchops. I don't think the pivot pins have a recommended torque setting. What I have done is to position the swingarm on pins, then put a hex-wrench in each pin - and turn them both until it rests about in the middle - with approximately equal clearance on each side. Then tighten them and lock them down with the big chrome nuts. Then attach the shock. Let's take my (I think generous) 3mm estimate of total lateral clearance. If the swingarm was exactly centered, that would leave 1.5mm on each side. But even if it was 1mm on one side and 2mm on the other - are we saying that 0.5mm one way or the other makes a practical difference? Again - not to trying to be argumentative. If I am wrong, please explain.