Scud

Send me a PM with your address. In exchange I want a transmission input gear tool... Oh wait, you already gave me your extra one when you loaned me tools - and you wouldn't even accept payment for shipping. You get a "free" used clutch slave.

I also thought that a small amount of wear could fix the issue. I think I have about 500 miles on the new clutch - including one short ride where I tried slipping the clutch a lot - but I don't like riding that way. Adding a washer = 5 minutes. Getting to the point where I can add a washer = a few hours (plus reassembly = a day). And it just seems so close to totally releasing. Maybe I'll put the bike on the front wheel chock (and that against a wall) and try to bed the friction material as you described. In fact, that sounds like fun... maybe a few smoky burnouts in the garage while I'm at it. I will have to be very strategic about the timing of this "maintenance procedure." On a serious note, that also seems risky... like I could engage the clutch and lose control of the bike. I rode it to work today. Maybe I'll abuse the clutch on the way home - but if the problem is really 0.6mm, that's going to take a long time to wear off.

Here are the current symptoms (none of which were problems before the new clutch): Slight drag: with the bike in gear and clutch pulled in, I can move the rear wheel by hand and I can push the bike. But this is just a little bit harder than when in it's neutral. Missing shifts: Most of my shifts are excellent, but I have a recurring problem with 3-4 and 4-3. I frequently miss the upshift and the downshift, which yields a false neutral, followed by an unpleasant gear-mesh noise on shifting out of the false neutral (up or down). Difficulty getting into neutral: If I come to a full stop in gear, it is difficult to find neutral. It requires more effort than it should, and mostly toggles between 1st and 2nd. This is not a problem with the engine off, only while running. Clutch lever release point: I have to pull the clutch all the way to the handlebar to get release. Here's what I've done recently: Replaced clutch friction discs with SD-TEC plates sourced from MG Cycle. I think this could be the source of my problem. When I ordered, Gordon at MG told me they were a little thicker than normal and sometimes cause clutch to not fully disengage. I notice that MG has recently updated their product description to indicate that the plates are 8.3mm, compared to 8.0mm factory spec. That means 2 over-thick plates adds 0.6mm to the clutch stack. Replaced intermediate plate and springs. Rebuilt shift pre-selector (springs, polish, etc.) and added Lucky-Phil-Chuck magic shift extender. I drained the Redline Shockproof Heavy last night and replaced with synthetic gear oil. No chunks of metal, but there was a little metal powder on the drain plug magnet. This seemed normal - in fact, it was relieving after the bad noises I've been hearing. Thinking about next steps: I have a new throwout bearing (I didn't replace it when I did the clutch). Gordon suggests that I use an extra washer between the throwout bearing and the piston (that would be three total washers instead of two). Supposedly, this is the equivalent of having a longer pushrod and may compensate for the additional thickness of the clutch parts. He said that has helped with manual (cable) clutches, but has never tried it with a hydraulic clutch. And he wants me to tell him if it works... which makes me the test-monkey. So - It's kind of big job to get at the clutch slave cylinder. What do you guys think about the chances of this working? Some relevant pics.... This is the SD-TEC clutch as currently installed. These are the clutch pushrod assemblies from other bikes. EDIT: I had LGC plates, not SD-TEC. They are about the same thickness as OEM plates. See next page for measurements.

As for the clutch tool, I don't think the diameter is as important as getting the teeth in the clutch plates aligned. I use this tool from MG Cycle. The three points that go into the teeth are the key. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=2618 I'd offer to loan it, but I think I'm going to need to use it soon.

Let's keep Czakky's description of the current problem (from 2-21 post above) in mind. What could account for the fact that it "purrs like a kitten" at 2,000 RPM, but has hard starts and shuts down off-throttle with a backfire? I don't know the answer - just trying to make sure we are asking the right questions. I have a pair of injectors, which I would gladly send to Wisconsin in exchange for some cheese. But... can injectors work well at some RPMs but not others?

Or at least rotate the relays you currently have and make sure they are all making good contact. I had three seemingly unrelated problems solved, as if by magic, by putting in new relays (but one that I removed was loose). There will be a logical solution. Chances are it will seem obvious once we find it. How's the condition of the rubber caps or hoses on the throttle bottle vacuum tubes?

They were willing to delete "Speedhut made in USA" and replace with "Made in Italy" for me. But I think it was another $20 and I decided not to.

I probably have one of those sensors, along with a stock TPS (aren't you using an aftermarket one?). Build a wish-list of what you'd like to be able to swap/test and I'll see how much of I have on-hand. I can send it to you - and if none of it helps, you can send it all back. I'm no expert on wiring harnesses, but I do know that the same connectors can be wired differently in different years as manufacturers make changes. This is a general statement for cars and bikes, and I don't know if it is relevant to your situation. I might even have a front wiring harness from a 2002.

There were a lot of changes from 2001-2003 with the 2002's being the "transition" year. I can't imagine that the gauges are the problem, but are there important differences in the wiring harness? Did you replace the whole front section of the harness?

Ok... it starts and idles, right? If yes, then I don't see how wires can be crossed. And it dies when you give it throttle? I'm getting toward the edge of what I know here... but can you connect a voltmeter to your TPS and see if the voltage increases gradually as you roll the throttle open? If there's a dead spot on your TPS could it be telling the ECU that the throttle is closed?

OMG, I once left paper towels in the intake manifold of an old Cadillac V-8. It started and died, started and died. Then it shot the whole wad out the tail pipe and ran perfectly.

Ha - Czakky needs a carbureted thumper with knobby tires. But back to the present problem... as I understand it, it will still start, but will not keep running. So you have air and spark. That leaves the third part of the equation - a fuel problem. I see you mentioned checking fuel pressure, but I did not see anything about fuel volume. On the 2002s the gas goes from tank, through manual petcock, then pump, filter, injectors, external pressure regulator, and back to tank. I like Roy's suggestion to try the old filter - in the extraordinarily unlikely event that you have a defective new filter. But before that... How's the manual petcock? Is it totally open - or might you have left it partially closed when the tank was off? What about the screen around the petcock's inlet? Maybe it had accumulated some debris, which hardened in the air while the tank was empty.

bb - do you ride dirt too? I know it's risky to ride solo - and I pack accordingly. There are some big animals out there too. I spooked a few Elk once when taking a dirt route from Sedona to Flagstaff. Then you have to think about bears in Eastern AZ and California... The tracking is becoming increasingly important to my family, so I just ordered the Garmin InReach Explorer. Should be arriving in about a month. Given that this device has two-way communication, in a worst-case scenario someone can ping the device for it's current location and know where to find me.

The fuel filter is directional. Is the arrow on the filter pointing in the direction of fuel flow?

Well... it looks like my procrastination is paying off. I've been thinking about upgrading my Garmin GPS 60 for a while, and I keep not buying a Spot device (despite the fact I often venture far off-road by myself). But good news, Garmin has just released a combo-device. Their new InReach handheld GPS units also connect to satellite, but they allow two-way messaging and connect to mobile devices via bluetooth for uber-coolness. Basic subscription cost looks to be about the same as Spot. How new are the devices? Amazon is only taking pre-orders. This could be what I've been waiting for. For extra $150 a year, you can get worldwide Medivac insurance. Another $30 gets you worldwide search and rescue. Good for peace of mind for the people who wait at home while you romp around Mexico...

OEM Part Name: Stainless Steel Bolt Kit Moto Guzzi Part Number: N/A (or all bolts and washers have separate numbers, which I am not going to look up) Replacement Part Brand or Source: StainlessCycle.com Part number or other identifier: Moto Guzzi Squarehead Differences from OEM (if any): stainless hardware - all bolts are allen-head caps - not phillips (alt cover) or standard bolt-heads (starter). Other Comments: includes correct bolts and different types of washers for alternator cover, timing chest, oil pan, bell-housing, valve covers, intake ports, starter, and exhaust flanges. And they "highly recommend the use of anti-seize!" Website link for source: http://www.stainlesscycle.com/presta/en/53-moto-guzzi

I still haven't got one of those Spots. Thanks for the reminder - doing some research now as I am contemplating a longer solo ride soon. One of those would be good for solo street riding too. I like the ability to send custom text messages via the spot - an occasional "I'm OK." I leave a ride-plan, and I ride conservatively when I go solo. But when there's a chance to exit a snowdrift onto a slippery wooden bridge... well... you gotta try that... (at low speed).

I recently had mine rebuilt at a local Ducati dealer with parts I sourced from Dan Kyle Racing. Chuck just did it himself. Details in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19782 Welcome to the forum.

So the order is: 3/4 gallon - no start, but slight ignition detected. Fix fuel leak and add another gallon of gas. Charge battery. Starts and idles, but dies with more throttle. If #4 was only one or two tries, you may still have some air in the fuel lines. It will take a little while to purge all the air. You can't go wrong with new plugs, but I'd be curious to know if it runs normally tomorrow after you let it idle for a little while. If so, that could mean you still had some air in the fuel lines today.

Two ideas: 1 - 3/4 of a gallon is about the unusable quantity remaining in the tank when you run out of gas. The pump will push that 3/4 gallon to the right side of the tank through the pressure regulator - but it draws fuel from the left. Put in another gallon and try again. 2 - if that and fresh plugs don't work, then check every connection that you had apart. Maybe something electrical didn't click-in all the way.

No... showing you this snowy single-track is teasing... But I cut my ride short after the bike went right and I went left for a swim. Wet underwear, boot full of water and freezing temperatures are a bad combo... And Baja - that's a special place. If you've never been and you want to go offroad, it's probably a good idea to spend for a tour guide. It IS a different country with different ideas about laws, healthcare, foodservice, etc. Many of the differences are refreshingly pure and simple, some of the differences can get you killed.

Truck or motorcycle tour? I don't know anybody, but I could ask around. If motorcycle there's a San Diego Adventure Rider Forum - I'm not active on it, but I bet those guys would know who does tours.

SNOW RIDE!!!

I'd say a lot of the wear is due to how the bike is used. I'm getting the idea that Andy doesn't sit still long - and looks for long rides with minimal stop-and-go. That would let a clutch last for many more miles than an urban commuter.

Those parts look to be in a little better condition than the ones from my Champagne LeMans project at 50,000 miles. Flowing rides, smooth shifting, high idle speed, and pure thoughts make for a long clutch life I guess. On the other end of the spectrum we would have stop-and-go, engine-braking, throttle-whackers who hold the lever in at low-RPM idle.