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Petcock replacement?


Gio

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Thanks for the confirmation - I would prefer a straight-down in my case (as the primary hose now goes straight down, under the airbox and up to the pump from the opposite side.

 

Gio

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Al,

 

Just ordered a manual petcock from Moto International (they had some in stock). Apparently the new (2003?) version is similar to the previous manual version but is ~US$10 cheaper than before (US$19.47 each). Same dimensions, 90 degree elbow etc.

 

But now I have to play the old customs clearance game (so much for North American free trade eh..?)

 

Gio

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  • 10 years later...

...or just replace it with the manual one MG returned to using around 2001.

 

Call Moto International in Seattle and just tell them you need the manual petcock for a V11 Sport. It's about $45, and will last forever happy.gif

 

al

 

Hi, does anyone have the part number for the manual one that is better?  Is it 29105460?  does it look like this?

 

1531_0.jpg

 

I asked Moto International and what I was given was 

 

TLO11054600000 PETCOCK QUOTA,C3-I,DAYT,SP1100 - A1 at USD$34.  The part number seems to be a departure from the regular Guzzi style.

 

 

Cheers

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The manual one won't quit on you when you're in the middle of nowhere. That looks just like the one I bought (from MG Cycles) to replace the electronic one. Looks to be a bit cheaper (price wise) from MI as well. I think the extra $7 is for the fancy watermark on the website.

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=30&products_id=39

Ken

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  • 1 year later...

Reviving an old thread, because one aspect of deleting the electric petcock didn't seem to get addressed here: what to do with the wires for the old petcock. Just leave them open? Or should they be spliced together?

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Leave them open or even better wire a small 12 Volt LED to them, this will let you know if the interlock circuit (sidestand kill switch & neutral switch) are ok.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

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Most of the intermittent electrical faults occur before the ECU, it just so happens the petcock is connected just before the ECU relay.

A light across the petcock will indicate at a glance if anything is open circuit it will be Off, it will flicker or be dim with a bad connection, and if all is good shine brightly.

The LED only draws about 10 mA, just leave it under the tank to be consulted in event of misbehavior.

After all the petcock fuse is not being used for anything else, make it earn it's keep.

Besides which, your friends will be green with envy :grin:

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I like it too!

 

I've been planning to add a switched USB connector for my phone using that connector.  The AMP connector and sleeving just arrived on my desk today.

USB connector parts.JPG

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The USB cable is from Amazon.  I can't find the single port version anymore.  Here is a dual port version:

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SL0HHFC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

 

And another one that looks like the one I have, just packaged a little differently:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Weatherproof-Charger-Socket-Bare-Wire/dp/B00HQ5JS7I

 

The one I bought came with an overmolded cable and fused ring terminal connections.  I had already trimmed it to length and removed the outer jacket when I took that picture.

 

The AMP Superseal connector, boot, sleeving and heat shrink came from Cycle Terminal:

 

http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.htmlhttp://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html

 

I'm planning to mount it behind the headlight, inside the left mounting ear.  I'll post some pictures when I'm finished.

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I am on my second manual petcock.

 

If you open and close them too often (like I was doing, opening and closing for every ride), they have a tendency to grind themselves into leaking. They are made of soft metal that can't stand repeated screwing and unscrewing. 

 

I now leave mine open and only close when removing the tank. V11's are EFI bikes so they can stay open without any leaking, not like carbureted bikes.

 

Just a warning....

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"I am on my second manual petcock."

 

I have an '01, updated my tank to a 2002 model with the internal pump and filter. Getting rid of the electric petcock on the left side and dingleberry valve on the right side being a couple of the gained benefits. Also un-clutters the area around the spine, under the tank and between the cylinders.

 

Having the extra outlet freed up for a USB power port (or another key-on powered accessory) is graaaaavy.

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Here are a couple photos of the finished product.  Plugged right in to the unused petcock connector and worked as expected.  This was the least intrusive electrical mod I've done!  The USB Port behind the headlight is barely visible at quick glance.

USB Charging Cable small.jpg

USB Installed small.jpg

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