LowRyter Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 I am ordering new rear pads for my V11 Sport. Am I correct that only two allen bolts hold the caliper on the bracket? Researching on the forum, it appears that one can replace the pads without removing the caliper. Is there any preference? I am little concerned that I might have a problem wedging the pads in a tight fit. any hints would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 True that the pads can be replaced without removing the caliper by accessing through the black plastic cover. Yet, this is a good time to clean the contact block and pivot pin. Best to remove the entire bracket along with the wheel for best results. Also good to work both pistons in and out using a brake parts cleaner (protecting the wheel paint and your lungs and hands). You are likely to find that one piston moves far more easily than the other and must be blocked/clamped to get the other moving as well. It's a fiddly operation that takes a bit of time and chemical clean-up, but the brake action will be decidedly improved afterward! (Good medicine for the front pistons as well . . .) I suppose it must be said that this is a good time to bleed the fluid and turning the caliper over to put the bleeder on top will give the best result. Finally, check that the foot pedal has a bit of "play" to the master cylinder engagement. Torque well the pivot pin. Later V11 have a retaining clip inboard. One must assume that the pin can walk out without proper care. At the risk of posting really long answer to a comparatively short question, check out this FAQ: Maintenance Checklist (while the wheels are off) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 True that the pads can be replaced without removing the caliper by accessing through the black plastic cover. Yet, this is a good time to clean the contact block and pivot pin. Best to remove the entire bracket along with the wheel for best results. Also good to work both pistons in and out using a brake parts cleaner (protecting the wheel paint and your lungs and hands). You are likely to find that one piston moves far more easily than the other and must be blocked/clamped to get the other moving as well. It's a fiddly operation that takes a bit of time and chemical clean-up, but the brake action will be decidedly improved afterward! (Good medicine for the front pistons as well . . .) I suppose it must be said that this is a good time to bleed the fluid and turning the caliper over to put the bleeder on top will give the best result. Finally, check that the foot pedal has a bit of "play" to the master cylinder engagement. Torque well the pivot pin. Later V11 have a retaining clip inboard. One must assume that the pin can walk out without proper care. At the risk of posting really long answer to a comparatively short question, check out this FAQ: Maintenance Checklist (while the wheels are off) I don't have a stand to take off the rear wheel. If I take the caliper off, is it only held by the two allan bolts? Or do I have to take the bracket off too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 I would think it better, then, to remove the black plastic cap, drive the retaining pin out and pull out the pads. Push the pistons back in to the caliper by prying, one then the other, to make room for the new pads. Using the brake parts cleaner is still good (just cover the wheel and such from the run off). If you're just doing the pads, use the plastic cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 ok, change the pad but don't remove the caliper. how do you pry the caliper pistons without damaging the disc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 You can do this one side at a time. Pry the caliper piston back into the caliper with a large regular screwdriver and then insert the new pad. Go to the other side and repeat the process. Be gentle and pry on the surface of the rotor wher the brake pad does not run and you will be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzimeister Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 You can do this one side at a time. Pry the caliper piston back into the caliper with a large regular screwdriver and then insert the new pad. Go to the other side and repeat the process. Be gentle and pry on the surface of the rotor wher the brake pad does not run and you will be good to go. Hi reading the above, would respectfully suggest the following: - undo the allen bolts holding caliper to mounting bracket. - with an old towel to protect the wheel, jiggle cliper from side to side until it slides off the disc This can be done justr like the front brakes with the bike on its side stand and literally takes 5 minutes. Then as Docc and others suggest, heers Guzz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 I havent tried gettin to the pads with the wheel on so I cant give advice on replacing them whilst still on the bike but it is relatively easy with the rear wheel removed.If you havent checked or greased bearings recently or ever it would be a good time to do that and clutch fluid as Docc's list suggests.I know your just trying to do what should be a simple job but a couple of hours more could save you time and aggravation down the road.The MG workshop stands go for about $100 used on ebay and you will use it a lot if doin your own work,or maybe a combination of car jack and 2X4's you could get the rear up. Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I havent tried gettin to the pads with the wheel on so I cant give advice on replacing them whilst still on the bike but it is relatively easy with the rear wheel removed.If you havent checked or greased bearings recently or ever it would be a good time to do that and clutch fluid as Docc's list suggests.I know your just trying to do what should be a simple job but a couple of hours more could save you time and aggravation down the road.The MG workshop stands go for about $100 used on ebay and you will use it a lot if doin your own work,or maybe a combination of car jack and 2X4's you could get the rear up. Michael Thanks Michael, I'll do it next time. I just had a rear tire replaced unexpectedly on the road Friday. When changing it the mechanic noticed the brakes were shot, the inside pad has no material left. Unfortunately, there were no pads in stock. I am back home now and I am going on a 400 miles on Saturday and don't have the time for all that you suggest now. And since this full sports Dunlop Qualifier, I'll have the wheel off again replacing it in abouit 3000 miles. So it won't be long and I can grease it then. The tire that was punctured was new, so I believe the PO did all the required maintenance. I've ordered the pads and am hopeful to get them in time to make the ride. I don't want to run into snags, so I am asking for the quickest way for success. When I've replaced pads, I've always removed the caliper. I might be able to do it while the caliper is still attached per the instructions. BTW- there are only two allen head bolts that attach to the caliper to the bracket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 The MG workshop stands go for about $100 used on ebay and you will use it a lot if doin your own work,or maybe a combination of car jack and 2X4's you could get the rear up. Michael Before I got the MG workshop stand I used two cheap axle stands (£12) and a trolley jack under the crank case (piece of ply to spread the load) - served me well for a few months but after a few tricky moments trying to do it single handed, I opted to get the stand: didn't want to have to be extracted from under 500lb of fallen V11! Still, if you have assistance, this is the cheap route to getting the back wheel off. AndyH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 are there only the two allen bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 are there only the two allen bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket? Yes. It's good advice to pull the wheel but if you can't do that do what Guzz suggested, pull the caliper to clean the pistons, replace the pads, and bleed it. The pistons push in easier with the bleed screws cracked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 are there only the two allen bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket? OK, since you've asked this same simple question four times, giving us all the latitude to espouse our various opinions, the answer is "yes": two allen bolts to remove the caliper from the bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogla Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I'd suggest pushing the pistons back using the old pads in place and a large flat-blade screwdriver. That way you cant damage your new pads in any way. Also it can help to loosen the cap on the rear brake reservoir, but be warned - a violent movement of the pistons backwards can result in brake fluid spillage out of the reservoir. Steady action does the trick thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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