Jump to content

rear brake pad replacement


LowRyter

Recommended Posts

Actually, Harbor Freight.. :whistle: has a vacuum pump system that is better than a Mighty Vac. You can find it on sale occasionally for under 20 bux. Made out of metal and all that. Works well. That said, I prefer a syringe, and fill the master cylinder from the bleed nipple.

What I can't figure out is why the rear brake gets so hot?? When I got Rosie, the rear rotor was toast. The brake line had apparently got into the exhaust, so I figured that was the problem. I'm going through her getting ready for the Kentucky rally, and noticed the plastic cover over the pads had partially melted. (!!) I seldom use the rear brake, and certainly not enough to get it hot. When I originally went through the rear brakes, I put a new caliper, rotor, and line on it. Rebuilt the master cylinder. Made sure I had play at the pedal.

What's going on?

 

On my bike the rear brake gets hot when the pistons stick from the buildup of pad/rotor material and dirt due to the low caliper location. I remove the caliper and clean the pistons about every 5k miles, or when the brake doesn't feel right and the disk is hot after a short ride, which has happened in as little as 3k miles.

 

:2c: I've had good luck using a Mityvac for bleeding calipers and the clutch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 30
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...