LowRyter Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 I'd suggest pushing the pistons back using the old pads in place and a large flat-blade screwdriver. That way you cant damage your new pads in any way. Also it can help to loosen the cap on the rear brake reservoir, but be warned - a violent movement of the pistons backwards can result in brake fluid spillage out of the reservoir. Steady action does the trick thanks that's how I normally do it. And sometimes I use one of the old pads to wedge the new ones apart when I reinstall the caliper to the disc & bracket. Hopefully a two piston set up will be easier that four pistons. (side to side vs side to side & front to back). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 well I just got the new pads, EBC HH, $45! No wonder they're worn out, I've seen postage stamps bigger than these little buggers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I'd suggest pushing the pistons back using the old pads in place and a large flat-blade screwdriver. That way you cant damage your new pads in any way. Also it can help to loosen the cap on the rear brake reservoir, but be warned - a violent movement of the pistons backwards can result in brake fluid spillage out of the reservoir. Steady action does the trick thanks Wat Boogla sez.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 well I just got the new pads, EBC HH, $45! No wonder they're worn out, I've seen postage stamps bigger than these little buggers. Yeah, there is not much pad material there. And it is compounded by where the brake rides down in the spray. Doubly important to keep the pistons moving freely. Good advice on everyone's part here! Removing the old fluid from the reservoir first will keep it from overflowing when you retract the pistons. Again, I would work them in and out several times using a brake solvent to get them moving freely. You will find your next pads will last longer! Good question and some excellent input. (Rear brake is one of the Achilles' heels of the V11 series) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 well Docc, I screwed up royal. I was attempting to unbolt the caliper from the bracket and my near vision fooled me and I unscrewed the wrong bolts and took the caliper apart. DUH. Brake fluid everywhere. I got it back to together (one O ring I hope). But cannot get it pressure. I've been bleeding but no luck. bad to worse I am afraid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 The bleed screw has to point upwards in order to bleed the caliper. I assume this is being done ? Gravity bleed is the only method you can ( w/o a Phoenix bleed tool) use to bleed the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 point upwards? the bleeder is at the bottom on the caliper pointing at the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Air always moves to the higher point. To get the bleed nipple higher than the line you're bleeding air from, detach the caliper from the bike & turn it so that nipple is at top. You can also bleed air to the m/c, so maybe start in the middle of the line at the lowest point & gradually persuade air to both ends. Work progressively along the line. A few sharp taps at any part where air might be trapped will dislodge, & encourage it to move upward to the bleed point - be gentle - a small spanner etc would do). Always keep m/c topped up with fluid. Always work consistently from one point, upwards along the line, chasing air out at the ends. Don't let air back into the system through the bleed tube. Make sure tube/nipple seal is good. It's a simple job that rewards logic & patience. Some people use syringes etc to pressure the system. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rex007can Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 So I didn't have a tool to drive the retaining pin out...so I too the caliper apart and replaced the pads just about 15 minutes ago. Is it mandatory to replace the O-ring? Cause I didn't. Doesn't look like it's leaking. Took advantage of the job to purge/refill the brake fluid. I was just curious about the O-ring... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 I reused the O ring after finding it on the floor. I am out an hour of shop time. Did you have a power bleeder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 point upwards? the bleeder is at the bottom on the caliper pointing at the ground. Yeah, that's just wonderful.....an inverted caliper. Had to put it somewhere ? Reassemble everything with the exception of mounting the caliper. Make sure the brake hose is unclipped from the retainer on the swingarm. This will allow the caliper to hang down farther. Make sure the caliper is positioned where the bleed screw is pointed in the 12 o'clock direction.Fill the reservoir completely w/brake fluid. Dot 4 or 5 is the fluid to use. Back the screw out 1 turn and allow to gravity bleed. Have someone else to keep the reservoir full while you are watching the bleeding process take place. When NO bubbles are coming out of the bleeder you can tighten the bleeder screw and reassemble. This should work o.k. for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rex007can Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Did you have a power bleeder? Power bleeder?? No, I just kept pumping the pedal an refilling the reservoir till I had to refilled a few times and had a bunch of fluid in my tuppeware. Then I sealed the zert and went for a ride around the block. What's a power bleeder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 It would best to Google for this information. It would take longer to explain and you would eventually Google or Youtube it any way. You can look a Phoenix brand reverse bleeder systems or one that applies air pressure to the top of the master cylinder reservoir to force fluid through the system in the normal direction. I do not reverse bleed any brake system w/ABS..........BAD things happen when contaminated brake fluid goes backward thru the ABS unit ! I forgot, there's a company ........Mightyvac sells a hand held vacuum pump that vacuum bleeds brake systems ! MV8000 I think is the # Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Actually, Harbor Freight.. has a vacuum pump system that is better than a Mighty Vac. You can find it on sale occasionally for under 20 bux. Made out of metal and all that. Works well. That said, I prefer a syringe, and fill the master cylinder from the bleed nipple. What I can't figure out is why the rear brake gets so hot?? When I got Rosie, the rear rotor was toast. The brake line had apparently got into the exhaust, so I figured that was the problem. I'm going through her getting ready for the Kentucky rally, and noticed the plastic cover over the pads had partially melted. (!!) I seldom use the rear brake, and certainly not enough to get it hot. When I originally went through the rear brakes, I put a new caliper, rotor, and line on it. Rebuilt the master cylinder. Made sure I had play at the pedal. What's going on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 Chuck, thanks for the Harbor Freight idea. I'll have to pick one of those up. I am always working with aquarium tubing and jelly jars- even had turkey marinade syringe. Sorry that Rosie is given you a few problems. I am sure you'll get to the root since you're an ace wrench. I was lucky to find a fast green one. BTW- I just put a 1000 miles on the green bike and planning another 400 miles tomorrow. Oil looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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