rossi46 Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 managed to hear the bike in Italy-wasn't too loud at low revs-love the look though, where did you manage to get one? They don't list one on the web site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 managed to hear the bike in Italy-wasn't too loud at low revs-love the look though, where did you manage to get one? They don't list one on the web site I don't think that they have made these exhausts for quite a few years now. I got lucky and found this one on fleaBay by accident. The seller had it ceramic coated, but never installed it - I think it has to be one of the last new V11 Quat-D Ex Box exhausts anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 BTW, checked the valve lash today, and they were both set pretty much at .006 and .008 (intake and exhaust). Definitely not out of spec. I tightened them all up just a smidgeon though. Bike still has some minor fueling issues which I can tackle now that I know the valves are set. Plugs were gapped correctly, and were mostly tan with some black soot (probably from me idling the bike or from short runs that didn't reach full operating temp). I am nearly 100% positive though, that the throttle bodies have never been adjusted or balanced since the factory set them. I've got my trusty test harness now, so I will proceed with TPS and TB balance once the weather cools off a little bit (almost 100 deg F today). Gotta borrow a floor fan too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Do you have a way to check the CO on the ECU's "dashboard?" Make sure it's not ridiculously leaned out. Then you can also be certain your tach and the ECU are seeing the same rpm before setting the idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 Do you have a way to check the CO on the ECU's "dashboard?" Make sure it's not ridiculously leaned out. Then you can also be certain your tach and the ECU are seeing the same rpm before setting the idle. Docc, what do I need to get to see the ECU parameters? Is it GuzziDiag or something like that? How can you monitor Carbon Monoxide levels? I know you can trim the CO with the air bleed screws. It's idling nice, right at about 1000 rpm now...but a little sputtering/backfire at cracking of the throttle. I am sure those giant K&N pods aren't helping the situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 The CO trim is set in the ECU with a software interface. Those guzzidiag guys are amazing. I'm thinking it can be done that way. Certainly, using an exhaust gas analyzer will give you the best results, but they're not common in most people's pile of tools. Using the original Moto Guzzi diagnostic tool (Axone) and also the software interface VDSTS, we found my CO trim set to minus 27 (an arbitrary scale, but very lean). Zeroing the CO on the scale really improved my running. (We confirmed the result with an exhaust analyzer as well). Again, it's my understanding you can do this with guzzidiag as well as comparing the rpm seen by the ECU to what you see on your tach. However, the air bleed screws really do not set the CO (AFAIK). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted October 6, 2014 Author Share Posted October 6, 2014 Thanks for the info Docc! I think for now, I will learn the ways of the stock map, and if I can't get things trimmed right with the big K&N pods and the new Quat-D Ex Box, I will likely go the route of electronic tuning aides. In the meantime, the valves have been adjusted! It really wasn't that bad, just had to try to predict how much change would occur during tightening of the locknut. Once that was figured out, it was easy to get the lash to acceptable numbers. If anything they were set too loose, so my concerns of too tight factory setup were unfounded. I've got them now set on the tighter side of .006 and .008. Also, I got my TPS set to 150mV full closed, and 521mV at idle (before I started, the idle setting was 397mV ...I didn't check the full-closed as-found voltage however). I have the air bleeds at about 1.75 turns out at the moment (just experimenting). For now, I adjusted the balancer knob by guessing and feeling the motor smooth out a little. I am getting a new exhaust soon, so I didn't want to do a full vacuum balance check until the new exhaust is installed. When the time comes, I will close both air bleeds and use this electronic differential pressure gauge (which my company makes). I am not sure if it will be able to buffer out the pulses like a nice column of Mercury would, but I will give it a go since I have access to this $800 gauge. A quick 20 mile ride showed that the intense vibrations lessened, and the peak of vibrations moved up from 3300 rpm to about 3750 rpm. So I've must have done something! Also, there was no more back-firing on accel (after a long steady state run). So it is definitely better, but I think there is still room for improvement! A 100 PSID gauge isn't exactly appropriate for this test, but should get me much closer than water/oil tubes Throttle at idle position. Throttle being held open to max swing on the pot (4.77 volts) Break-out wire kit works great. 150mV with butterfly completely closed. My crappy Harbor Freight POS multi-meter (9 months old) crapped out, so I had to dig out the trusty Radio Shack digital volt meter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Good going! You don't have to change the map to set the CO, just must have an ECU interface tool of some sort. Your local Guzzi shop could check it in minutes. +1.75 on the air screws seems like a lot. I like a full turn to get stable idle in the heat of the US south. Now that the TPS has its baseline, don't be afraid to simply raise the idle with the set screw to where you want it. Best to balance at some rpm (2500+) and use the air screws to balance at idle. Every tune-up brings the parameters closer and closer/better and better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 Thanks Docc as always! Yea, I figured +1.75 is too much on the air bleeds, but it did run better with them turned out.... I don't know if it matters, but I am at 2800 ft ASL. The idle right now is almost exactly 1000. I suppose it would be easy to bump it to 1100... but I will wait until I have a better idea of balance. I am excited to really get this bike tuned up, as it is already tons better.... but I am still buying bar-ends, lead shot, Vibranators or something! I'm getting the tinglies in the wrist, even after a short 20 minute ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradiso Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 I got a numb hand/tingling so I bought some 'grip puppies'. These are foam tubes that slip over the grips. Much to my surprise, they have helped a lot. Will have to get round to TB balance soon. Hoping that might make a difference too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Yea, I've got some pretty soft grips on the Norge, it's a total pussycat now. But the V11 is a different beast! I'd like to do some kind of stealth vibration dampening for this bike so I can keep my Domino grips, but I'd really like to maximize smoothness via motor tuning first! Let me know how your tuning goes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossi46 Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 have a look at manic salamanders-got them on my bike work great! 12oz classic http://www.manicsalamander.com/products/details-of-weights.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 have a look at manic salamanders-got them on my bike work great! 12oz classic http://www.manicsalamander.com/products/details-of-weights.aspx Definitely like those rossi....they are already on my short list! I think those plus some lead shot should do the trick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Quat-D Ex Box has been installed! Sounds great, good low tones, reminiscent of a V8's rumble. Don't know if it's just my mind playing tricks, but the throttle response seems somewhat subdued now...which was welcomed. I am going to get one of those G2 throttle tamer cam throttle tubes for my Tuono, and may get one for the V11 too...fuel injection + shaft drive can make for a jerky start if you aren't paying attention. Regardless, for whatever reasons, the new exhaust seems to have tricked my brain into thinking the throttle roll-on is a bit more smooth. I've heard reports these cans destroy the torque of the motor unless you have other supporting mods. Not sure what those mods are, but I am running those large K&N pods, so hopefully they complement the new exhaust. I guess it's all a crap shoot unless I actually get the bike tuned. So far, I can't tell a bit of difference with regard to butt dyno. I also have read that the welds on these things are poor and can crack. Hopefully the special ceramic coating won't exacerbate any manufacturing defects. Here's everything before installation. I weighed all the pieces and compared to the La Franconi carbon fiber exhaust w/hangers, rear pegs etc. LaFranconi setup: 30.5 lbs Quat-D Ex Box: 19 lbs Not sure what the riveted plate and brass plug are for, I assume they are access points for assembly. Nice of them to lighten the brass nut. Very nicely machined couplers...perfect fit. The flanges are pretty soft metal though and bent a little when installed. Nice of them to include bungs for O2 wideband sensors (I assume) Spent about 90 minutes figuring out a suitable spacing using washers and various bolts, as I had no instructions and there is very little room for error (charcoal canister mount ears are so big, the bracket had to be spaced out to accommodate them). Now the big question... to de-sticker, or leave alone... they are hideous and now fully exposed... I see no reason to leave them other than they are a neat OEM data plate, and actually have some useful information on them. But it just reminds me of how in the 90's, guns started getting paragraphs of warnings stamped on the barrels as if it was going to actually be read and adhered to. Damn lawyers. What to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 My replacement swingarm came from Germany. No stickers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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