GuzziMoto Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 If the forks you are getting are the ones pictured in post 138 they appear to have axial brake mounts, not radial brake mounts. If they are from another V11 they should bolt right up with only the axle and possibly wheel bearings/spacer needing to be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 If the forks you are getting are the ones pictured in post 138 they appear to have axial brake mounts, not radial brake mounts. If they are from another V11 they should bolt right up with only the axle and possibly wheel bearings/spacer needing to be replaced. I think you might be right G'Moto- I have a bunch more photos at home, I will post more shots up later. But yea, the radials have the long extended 'fingers' coming off of them, and I don't think these have them... Further, it would seem unlikely a LeMans Rosso Corsa owner would bother to do a radial conversion no? Thanks for your help guys! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admin Jaap Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 After studying the picture beter I see now that these are OEM Ohlins forks. Sorry for the mix up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 No problem Jaap, you had me scared there for a moment though! I think my biggest hurdle now will be the proper bearings and spacers...just a matter of determining if the front wheels are identical across the model lines (pretty sure yes) and then ordering the parts according to the drawings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Gheezh, how did I miss that - bad assumptions on my part! I throught all Öhlins bikes would also have radial mounted brakes too... So I suppose I have two options: 1) find the appropriate radially mountable Brembos calipers (anything else to worry about other than the caliper mounting) 2) find the standard non-radial mount lower ends for the Öhlins forks (is it even possible to change the bottom ends?) Both options probably won't be cheap. Option 1 at least gets me the 'cooler' radial mounted brakes. Option 2 makes the install of the Öhlins *much* easier once they'rerebuilt. The Ohlins forks you have bought AREN'T Radial caliper forks so your original calipers will be ok. As an aside, I dont like to reserviors you have fitted for 2 reasons, the mounting system looks so complicated it will probably give you issues eventually, and it just lacks elegance. Secondly powder coating will eventually start to blister and peel off due to sweating from the reservior cap seal. Even the stock ones do this eventually. Anodised units are the only way to go IMHO. Good thread though, lots of useful info:) Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 Thanks for the head's up on the Rizoma knock-off reservoirs Phil- Fortunately, they didn't cost very much. Indeed the mounting arms are versatile but very cheesy in execution. 4 screws to vibrate loose and have flopping reservoirs. The finish is sure to get ugly too...it's like enamel over pot-metal. I had been looking into these reservoirs, but just couldn't pull the trigger...I know I've blown a crap ton of money on this bike already, but $125 PER reservoir? It just seems wrong!: http://www.whaccessories.com/BrakeReservoirs.htm Here are some more shots of the axial brake mounted Ohlins: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 More goodies today: I finally got a complete, new, matching key set for the bike... If you remember from a few months ago, I've already purchased and installed a new ignition, but I am going to replace it with this one, so that the bike all works off the same key. This stuff was brand new in the bag; very nice OEM parts - even the spare key has a red rubber protector on it. Interestingly, the guy I got it from had two types of gas fillers; one with the word "LIFT" on the key cover, and another with the Guzzi Eagle... you can guess which one I chose. The cap came with new rubbers as well, thankfully. Obviously I won't be installing the helmet lock, since I took a grinder to the original mount (see earlier posts). Also got a brand new fuel pump assembly... again, if you've been following the restoration, I've already overhauled the old fuel pump and installed a new filter with the proper pinch clamps.... but I couldn't pass up an opportunity to get a new assembly. This one was built in in '03 and was also 100% new in the bag. The new motor is made in Czechia, and appears slightly different from the original '02 pump, to which I can't tell the brand name. Also, you can see the black plastic motor holder, vs. the older white plastic version... I am still planning on adding the worm gear clamp to the new pump too, similar to the clamp on the oil filter mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 AND, to keep my new shiny plastic Acerbis gas tank free from the detrimental effects of Ethanol blended gasoline: I will be experimenting with home Ethanol removal. I found this cool Italian 5 gallon jug with brass petcock. I've also got a Mr. Funnel to separate out any remaining H2O - if I do the chemistry right, there won't be any, but it's OK to have excess water as long as you pull it out! As you all probably know with Ethanol removal, you loose a good portion of your fuel's Octane rating, so I will have to put the *juice* back into the mix once I've ripped out the corn. To get the Octane back up, I will be using a fairly new additive on the market called RACE GAS (http://race-gas.com/), which should get me back to around 91 Octane; which at my altitude, should just be enough. Yea, I know this is probably going a little over-board...but after all I've done to this bike, I'm not letting a drop of this crap touch my Guzzi. Hopefully once I'm up and running, you guys can help me make sure my V-twin isn't going lean, and if it is, point me in the right directions. That's my biggest concern right now. Anyways, once I get the removal process going, I think I will be able to produce 5 gallon batches fairly quickly (30-45 minutes). As I've stated before, I will start a new post on this topic, but I wanted to include a quick Ethanol discussion in this build diary to be complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 Well the package has arrived from TLM. The rear carbon fender seems to be a part TLM had made for the V11. I don't believe it is an OEM Guzzi part. Regardless, it's very nice, and I'm glad to have it. I can't stand the big ugly plastic stock fender. I've purchased a spare to have painted, but they always seem to get gouged up and ruined. There's no saving black plastic molded parts like this. Now I don't have to worry about it. The golden rods are here! The fork tubes are dinged up a little, but they seem in great mechanical shape, with no signs of leakage (yet). Just gotta find out if I need any bearings or spacers for my wheel, to be used with this axle. I'm thinking about just installing them and seeing how it rides. Not too happy about the (salt water?) corrosion on the rear shock, which didn't show up on the pictures. As I've said before, it seems that European sellers purposely leave out any details that might be construed as a negative to a sale. Maybe that's the accepted buyer-seller culture over there... It seems most sellers in the states with high $ ticket items usually explain every detail ahead of time, as to not get an upset buyer. That said, I don't feel totally 'screwed at the drive-through', as the shock appears fully functional and is complete...it's only cosmetic damage. Of course the adjusters are kinda buggered too, but the shock lays buried in the bike, so I'm not gonna loose sleep over it. If it bothers me enough I think I know where to find a potential buyer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 I forget now . . . did you start with a complete bike or you're building a V11 from parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 I forget now . . . did you start with a complete bike or you're building a V11 from parts? Yea Docc, one day I'm going to realize I have enough duplicate parts to build another complete bike! It's gotten quite crazy, but I *think* I am nearing the end of the tunnel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 Today's work...which of course, leads to more items to purchase.... The Ohlins forks are now installed; they slid right in without problem. Pretty sad pulling out freshly rebuilt Marzocchis for unknown Ohlins! My favorite view, now including a splash of anodized aqua. Hopefully one day, I'll get a chance to see some road from this perch, instead of garage. Of note: the second new ignition switch has been installed, as well as the seat release lock and fuel filler. The whole bike is now on one key again! Now, here are my latest two dilemmas: Indeed, I will need to order one 20x52x15 bearing and the proper spacer for this new axle. One of the original 25x52x15 bearings will be retained. Anyways, I can find 20x52x15 bearings all day long, but the proper spacer is a different story. I might have to ask TLM to sell me the spacer out of the wheel from the Rosso Corsa that these golden legs came from. The Rosso Corsa parts diagram .pdf is actually very good overall, but there is still enough ambiguity on the exploded wheel/axle drawing that I'm still confused as to what parts belong to which model. They list what appears to be two different Rosso Corsas (RC)? It shows parts for RC-T5 and RC-T6... any ideas what these model designators represent? Page 47 of the Rosso Corsa/Le Mans/Sport Naked parts manual. The second dilemma, is that due to a glaring over-site on my part, my new OEM Guzzi carbon fiber front fender will not properly bolt up to the Ohlins! Apparently there is a special carbon fender for the Ohlins equipped bikes, but unfortunately, I have the fender for the standard Marzocchi forks. Yay! Time to make an adapter bracket. There's always something. Rear Ohlins shock installed. No problems here other than the buggered adjusting rings and some missing zinc plating...galvanic corrosion at its finest, just add salt water. Just as a side note: the reservoir bracket for the Sachs is the exact same for the Ohlins...I used my original bracket, as it was in much better shape than the one that came with the Ohlins rear. Also, the feeder hose on the Ohlins is about twice the diameter of the Sachs-Boge line. All buttoned back up, and with rear fender installed. It was expensive as hell, but I am really glad I found that fender...I didn't really want to run the rear without something back there. How many carbon fiber pieces can you spot in the photo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostarika Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 You are an animal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 You are an animal hahaha thanks Kosta- one broke-ass animal that's for sure! BTW, the necessary spacers and bearing are ordered and should be here in 10 days or so....'nuther $100, but at least the parts are still available. I bought a really nice SKF OEM bearing, and not some cheap Chinese roller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 Time for an oil change and Roper plate install! I was going to wait until the bike was running, but I figure after sitting for 6 months straight, most of the oil is in the pan, or at least most of the heavy/dirty stuff. With the lower sump off, there are some interesting findings. Some gummy pieces were trapped on the screens of the pickup filter (not visible in this shot) After removing the sump adapter ring, I realized what the gummy stuff was - some sort of thread locking compound. It was only on the interior bolts that hold on the sump adapter and the oil regulation gear. The residual gummy stuff was a dark amber goo that was applied fairly sloppily, and bits and pieces of it were in the sump, and splattered around the sump walls. The bolt's washers were stuck in place too. I am guessing this was a factory job, as I don't believe the adapter ring had ever been removed before since built. Interesting finding #2. I think the photos speak for themselves. Also, the damn filter was screwed on so tight, I had to remove the copper cross-over tube and crush the old filter in a vice and turn the whole oiler manifold by hand to break it free. WTF! If the problem wasn't obvious in the above photo, here is a close up of the 'extra' oil gasket, obviously left over from a careless oil change: I've seen cleaner crank cases, but this one's not too bad....no metal chunks lying about thankfully! Lower sump pan and oil adapter ring all cleaned up and ready for Mr. Roper's plate! I removed the drain plug and the extra large plug for cleaning, but does anybody know what the second large fitting hole is for? Just in case the first gets buggered? Optional secondary oil cooler line??? All the parts ready to go! New stainless steel hardware for the lower sump (installed with copper paste), blue Locktite for the inner bolts (adapter ring and oil works), extra gaskets, Roper Plate, new oil filter with anti-loose worm-gear clamp mod: Plate installed! No need to superman torque the oil filter now, it ain't going anywhere: The now famous "Roper Line" is clearly visible: Stainless steel lower sump bolts: Tank installed with new fuel pump assembly. Seat and tank protector too! Had to Dremel the kickstand mounting hole of course, and I also fully cleaned the kickstand up and re-installed. Key in, and everything lights up, fuel pump primes, motor turns over. Gas gauge light works (empty tank). We're all good to go for front wheel and *pure* gasoline! Some questions: 1) I filled up the sump with a gallon of Motul 3000 4T 20W50 mineral oil...that's 3.78 liters. People here said that 4 liters is the magic number. However, the oil right now is way past the full mark (by almost double). Of course, the oil filter is dry, the oil regulation system is virtually dry, and the bike is not level or on its kickstand. So, I will of course re-check the oil level when the bike is running and on the ground. I know there's the 'all the way in' dipstick test, and the 'just the threads touching method', but regardless, I assume these methods require the bike to be on the kickstand? Is it ok if I turn the motor over for a few seconds (no gas) with the starter motor to help prime the oil lines and oil galley-ways? Note: I've already turned it over a couple times to check the electrics, but not extended engagements. How much priming happens on these motors at low speed rotation? I assume it's a positive displacement oil pump - so good oil priming with just the starter motor? 2) When I receive the bearing and spacers for the front wheel assembly, will there be any special lubrication needed? I assume the bearings themselves are sealed and don't need outside grease, but what about the axle in general? I've also heard of people over-tightening the Ohlins axle and causing problems? Any Ohlins related axle advice is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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