footgoose Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 fwiw, I switched to syn in my '00 BMW K1200rs at 12kmi. Granted, the "flying brick" flat 4cyl has all 4 leaning left when put on the side stand. After a hot ride and an overnight on the side stand, I got a LOT of smoke that diminished over 15-20 mi. I hadn't noticed this before switching. My dealer tech told me, in convincing sciencebabble, that syn was not necessarily the best option for a motor designed for dino oil. He felt the syn got past rings and seals somewhat easier than mineral. He admitted it was his learned hunch, but often times his related service problems were improved/corrected by switching back. I switched back and my "side stand smoking" was reduced to "slight". Don't want to start a syn vs dino debate as I'm no pro on the subject, and since I'm no pro, that experience was enough for me to stick to the recommended lubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 That was a common issue with BMW's. But I prefer to chose my oil based on how well it lubricates and resists breaking down. In that respect Dino oil comes up short compared to synthetic. I would rather have a little smoke, or even just a little oil disappearing in this case, then inferior oil. But the point is valid, you are more likely to get synthetic oil past seals, rings, or whatever, then you are with Dino oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 I'm not sayin' either way, but in my case it seems to burn about the same amount either with dino. or syn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Unfortunately , these plugs should not look like this . I would think the oil is getting past either the intake valves or the piston rings . The least expensive step would have a competent shop to disassemble the heads and check the intake valve guides for too much wear . I do not think these bikes use a valve stem seal . You would have to check a parts manual. If this checks o.k. , then it is time to re-ring the bike . If you hone the cylinders , you can hone with a ball type hone for just a few seconds because these are a nickasil coated bore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 No, i am pretty sure they do not use valve stem seals. At least the wife's bike does not. They rely on the valve stems fitting the guide, and if the stem and/or guide wears they no longer fit right. And, as I said, the stock valve guides are not exactly top quality. But the motor can run that way for a long time. When you fix it, if that is indeed your problem, is up to you. But it is unlikely to fix itself. Before I pulled a head I would do a compression and/or leakdown test, because otherwise you are just guessing. First I would put a fresh set of plugs in and do all the other basic tune up stuff and see how it runs. If it were me I would do any serious work, that was not an emergency, over the off season. I can't see taking the bike down for any length of time during riding season over burning a little oil. But that is me. Your mileage, and opinions, may vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 Leak down test and/or compression test are on my list.... which is growing Wait riding season? what's that?.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Wait riding season? what's that?.... Left Coast Floridians . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 Wait riding season? what's that?.... Left Coast Floridians . . . Hey I'm just catching up from all the years living up in the frozen tundra. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Now ya got me feelin' sorry for ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Truthfully riding season might be backwards down here (for some riders anyway) because it is getting hot(85-90f, 29-32c). Which is at least probably partially responsible for my latest issue.... I've always had a small pinging issue: i.e. rolling on throttle below 4200RPM nothing major barely audible. Now though it seems to be getting worse, up higher in the rev range and under less load. Fuel is either 92-93 octane w/ ethanol but mostly 90 no ethanol seems to have no effect. You've seen my plugs. Is whatever that's causing my oil consumption building up too much carbon in the combustion chamber? Causing pre ignition? Also I've been trying to cure my leaky timing sensor and am wondering (having not yet measured my sensor gap) if anyone has played with the phase sensor/timing gap? There doesn't seem to be any set in stone ideal gasket/spacer thickness for the v11 at $.43-.78 I can splurge and try a few sizes but I'm not sure this has any effect on timing as points would? Also I've read that the TPS might effect timing right now my baseline is at precisely 165mv and 525mv all hooked up. Would reducing my baseline retard the timing somewhat? I know it's impossible to know what is causing this in my particular case I just don't want to chase my tail to no effect. Lord knows I've had my issues with this bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Changing your TPS will not change the timing, only the place on the fueling map. You could try raising the baseline within the range (I recall its +/- 30 mV). That said, I tried that on my Sport to quell the pinging and found it still ran best at the 165 mV baseline. Monkeying with the sensor gap would be messy. Probably better to use Guzzidiag for the tuning. Are you certain the CO is either zeroed in the ECU? No doubt that kind of carbon in the cylinder could definitely cause pre-ignition issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Mine starts pinging also as soon as temperatures go over 30°C, rather seldom over here. The only thing you can do is to look for the highest available octane fuel and or shift down a gear. Keep the revs high and the throttle down and the pinging will nearly vanish. I wouldn't change TPS or phase sensor settings. Any possible gains so or so would be marginal. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Are you certain the CO is either zeroed in the ECU? No idea what the CO is, probably should dive into that. Is it something that any MC shop could do? I'm sure it's a combination of heat and carbon build-up. Sea-foam to the rescue?...again. I'll just start going with the high octane fuel w/ethanol from now on. Best I can do, short of refining my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 The high temps here in the southern US are not likely part of the original design protocol for the V11 mapping. I can sure feel *it* when the temperature, air density, and barometric pressure match perfectly that day in Mandello when they were happiest with the test motor! Good advice from Hubert, as always. Yet, he and I will likely disagree on modifying the right head temperature sensor holder. I found significant hot weather 90˚F/32˚C - 95˚F/35˚C) improvements after lowering the mass of the holder. Better to start with the CO, maybe a high quality fuel system cleaner (like Techron), "comfortably loose" valves, air bypass screws cleaned and set a full turn out. Simple stuff that I found helps my hot weather running. (EDIT: yes, a MG shop can very easily set your CO. Mine was delivered at minus 27. HUGE difference after it was set to 0) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 (EDIT: yes, a MG shop can very easily set your CO. Mine was delivered at minus 27. HUGE difference after it was set to 0) what about a plain ole motorcycle shop? not many MG shops within 100mi. of me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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