thelonewonderer Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 I finally got started on the bike today!I got the engine out, heads and cylinders, alternator and rotor, clutch and flywheel removed. I ran into some stripped hex head bolts on the timing cover, so I had to call it a night (my upstairs neighbors wouldn't appreciate the sounds of a drill and dremel at this hour). The good news is that the connecting rod is fine. Soon, I'll have the crank out and to the machine shop. I did manage to break the 3rd ring on one of the pistons. Those are relatively cheap, however. Hopefully I'll be able to go back at it Thursday night. If not, I won't be able to work on it again until Sunday. I'm excited to finally be working on this bike; I definitely miss having it on the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Take the rods in and have them closed and ground. You won't regret it. Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelonewonderer Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Take the rods in and have them closed and ground. You won't regret it. Pete Will do. Thanks, Pete! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Since you will be removing the gear box just make a simple strap from a starter mounting bolt to one of the clutch bolts to hold the shaft while you undo the nut. Replace the timing chain tensioner with a blade type. Sent from my shoe phone! Is this the type of tensioner you mean: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=347 Curious, is replacing the original tensioner with this blade unit a recommended preventative maintenance item? It's pretty cheap. What's the original, hydraulic? Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Nah, the original uses a pathetic little flappy foot with a weedy spring. The forces on it easily overcome the spring so the chain still lashes about, it just doesn't chop a hole in the side of the timing chest. The Valtech 'Blade' tensioner exerts a much more meaningful force on the chain. Yes it will rob a tiny amount of power but in the scheme of things it's a no brainer. Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Take the rods in and have them closed and ground. You won't regret it. Pete Will do. Thanks, Pete! Would one of you fine gents be so kind as to explain what "closed and ground" means? Is this different than having them balanced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 I believe they are talking about grinding down between where the rod big end halves come together (between the rod and the rod cap) to make the big end hole smaller, then you re-grind the big end hole to the correct size. That makes the big end of the rod new again. The bearings fit like new. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelonewonderer Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 I can't, for the life of me, get the 27mm camshaft nut off, in order to disassemble the timing. A hand impact driver doesn't cut it. I'll have to find a power impact driver. Unless you guys have some tips for me Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Air tools are your friend, but they won't pick you up at the airport. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelonewonderer Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Air tools are your friend, but they won't pick you up at the airport. They are, indeed. I need to purchase a new compressor, as my last one got stolen Considering that a family lives above my garage, I'll have to go with one of the "silent" compressors. They're just so pricey! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thumper Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 The harbor freight electric impact gun works great, 250 foot lb torque no compressor needed. I have used it to remove clutch baskets, and all kind of parts. Use a torque wrench to reinstall parts! I think its 40$. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelonewonderer Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 The harbor freight electric impact gun works great, 250 foot lb torque no compressor needed. I have used it to remove clutch baskets, and all kind of parts. Use a torque wrench to reinstall parts! I think its 40$. I ended up buying a battery operated impact wrench from Home Depot. I don't know why I didn't think of Harbor Freight. I could have saved a ton of money! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelonewonderer Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 I got everything apart. The flange for the crankshaft on the flywheel side was very easy to remove with the special tool! Now, I just have to wait until next pay day so I can take the parts to the machine shop and get it all ground down. Can't wait to start putting it back together! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Ground down ??? Are you sure you can get undersize bearings ? Make sure you have them in hand before any grinding takes place.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoguzznix Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Hey all! I will need to remove the engine of my 2003 V11 Sport to get the crankshaft out. The bearings went out in one of the connecting rods, and it marred the crank pretty badly. I know it won't be an easy task, but I plan to do the work myself. Could anyone tell me what special tools I will need for the engine removal, and all the way down to the the crankshaft? I have a pretty good idea of what I will need, but I would feel more comfortable hearing from someone that has already gone through this process. Thanks in advance! Wanderer When I take a look at the picture of the crankshaft the following comes in my mind: The damaged half of the crank pin is not really blue - maybe the surface of the crank ist not worn but bearing material deposits on it. In that case you can polish it off the pin. New rod bearing shells, cleaning the oil galleries, done. Regrounding the Guzzi crank often leads to breaking if not done correctly. Mounting a crank from an EV can cause terrible vibrations because of a different balancing. Good luck I hope you can save your crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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