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2004 Lemans oil


Colorobo

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More to the point, while early V11 motors use 20W-50 SG (high zinc and phosphorus/ 'ZDDP'), later V11 motors have piston sprayers. 

 

Do the piston sprayers require the lower viscosity oil to function properly? :huh2:

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Oh good an oil thread. I run mine and just about every vehicle I own on Mobil1 0W-40 full group 4 synthetic (ZDDP levels are adequate for a flat tappet engine with this oil) Although admittedly the old runaround car that leaks like the Exon Valdese gets the drainage from the others. The guzzi seems to like it with no usage or oil into the airbox at all.

Buy in bulk like i do and its cheaper.

Ciao

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I run mine ... on Mobil1 0W-40 full group 4 synthetic

Hi Phil, I agree that Mobil 1 is good oil, but is it a "group 4" these days?

I see ExxonMobil make this claim on their website about Mobil 1: "A synthetic lubricant contains more highly refined base oils than conventional mineral oils". This is very different to their claims years ago, when they were very specific about their chemistry being man made, not made from crude oil.

When Castrol reformulated (downgraded/cheapened) their group 4 Syntec to group 3 mineral oil in the mid 90s, and still called it synthetic, Mobil sued Castrol over misuse of the word synthetic, but lost. Now everyone sells synthetic oil which is actually Group 3 mineral oil, rather than Group 4 synthesised oil. The word synthetic now just means "premium" for lubricating oil.

I'd be really interested to know what Mobil states on your drum of Mobil 1. Does it say Group 4?

The only group 4 oil I can find in NZ is Penrite 10Tenths, a good Aussie product, which specifically says is made of 100% PAO (polyalphaolefin) & Ester chemicals. My next oil change for the upcoming summer here will be to Penrite, now that I know the temp of my oil, thanks to a dipstick thermometer Scud sent to me.

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I run mine ... on Mobil1 0W-40 full group 4 synthetic

Hi Phil, I agree that Mobil 1 is good oil, but is it a "group 4" these days?

I see ExxonMobil make this claim on their website about Mobil 1: "A synthetic lubricant contains more highly refined base oils than conventional mineral oils". This is very different to their claims years ago, when they were very specific about their chemistry being man made, not made from crude oil.

When Castrol reformulated (downgraded/cheapened) their group 4 Syntec to group 3 mineral oil in the mid 90s, and still called it synthetic, Mobil sued Castrol over misuse of the word synthetic, but lost. Now everyone sells synthetic oil which is actually Group 3 mineral oil, rather than Group 4 synthesised oil. The word synthetic now just means "premium" for lubricating oil.

I'd be really interested to know what Mobil states on your drum of Mobil 1. Does it say Group 4?

The only group 4 oil I can find in NZ is Penrite 10Tenths, a good Aussie product, which specifically says is made of 100% PAO (polyalphaolefin) & Ester chemicals. My next oil change for the upcoming summer here will be to Penrite, now that I know the temp of my oil, thanks to a dipstick thermometer Scud sent to me.

 

Well it depends on who you talk to and many believe its irrelevant anyway. I'm aware of the 90's Mobil/Castrol legal squabble and the outcome decided by a Judge (oil expert apparently)

I suggest you consult the excellent "bobistheoilguy" site and while away the hours reading all the points and counterpoints on this. Its a great site.

My 20l drum is hemmed in by the lathe and parts washer so I cant see whats written on it but I doubt it will have that info anyway.

I've never seen an oil container with any genuinely detailed info on it. 

 

Ciao 

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I have found Penrite to be very upfront about what their oil contains.These guys have the balls to state what is in their products not like the majority of the big players. I guess that is the advantage of being a family owned business rather than being huge multi national types who presumably put profit before people, in doing so let you believe what you want to about their oils. The oil guy website doesn't interest me when I can read off my 20 litre pail of Penrite MC4ST 15W-50 "PAO Ester Synthetic Shear Free Full ZInc". This synthetic motorcycle oil is a replacement for my previously used Castrol Activ 4T also a 15W-50 oil but a mineral type. Penrite's website goes into great detail about all their products, here I found this oil met their recommendations for both of my bikes and 4 wheeler as well so it was a no brainer to grab a 20 litre.

Rob

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What weight 5-40 or 20 50, ?

Ok, so Colorobo, as you can see, oil is a *can-of-worms*. There is some common ground: change your oil, be careful about the V11 oil filter, *true* synthetic is good, enough ZDDP is important. Avoid anything labeled "Energy Conserving."

 

I use Lucas Motorcycle  20W-50. No idea how to even find out what the "base oil" is. I wish I knew? :huh2:

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Redline engine oil is one of the highest ZDDP content oils out there. Recommended by all race engine builders I've dealt with. They have a motorcycle and standard synthetic version. Real stuff, not mobile 1.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Castrol Motorcycle Synth Blend 20-50.   It's about $25 a jug at Cycle Gear.

 

'01 V11  Sport

 

Don't forget the transmission lube and the molly for the rear end.

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What weight 5-40 or 20 50, ?

I've got a 2004 Cafe Sport. Both the owners manual and the factory shop manual specify 5-40 which is what I use. Guzziology discusses this change from the recommended 20-50 for earlier models.

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Redline engine oil is one of the highest ZDDP content oils out there. Recommended by all race engine builders I've dealt with. They have a motorcycle and standard synthetic version. Real stuff, not mobile 1.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which version do you use then? The motorcycle or standard? I have a local race shop that stock all redline products.

Ken

 

A few years ago, my dealer installed Agip 10w60 in my V11 Sport. I've been using that since, because my V7C takes that oil, and I just buy it by the case. No need to stock 2 different kinds of oil.

Ken

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