Scud Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 ...if you sell her. You're perceptive. The downside of project like this is that I get attached... but I don't think she can stay. And I was not planning on filling in the letters. The candy-apple is pretty bold on it's own - especially in direct sunlight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 I'm cleaning up after powdercoating and putting sub-assemblies together. Chasing threads, removing overspray, etc. The candy-apple is taking a little more work than the flat black. It's a two-coat process, first a silver flake, then a translucent red. So the masking can loosen in the oven - letting more of the second coat into undesirable places, such as the ultra-fine threads for the swingarm pivot bolts. Here are some post-powder clean-up tips that I've learned: Use a dremel with wire wheels to remove excess around or in threads that you can get to (like the swingarm arm pivot holes on the porkchops). For small holes, put a little aircraft stripper on the tip of a bolt and work it until the powder disssolves and the threads catch. Or run a q-tip with stripper on it into the hole and let it soak a bit. Clean up threads from the back side whenever possible - and let the bolt push through the clean side - especially important if using stripper so you don't mess up the side that shows. Sandpaper, files, etc to remove various lips or edges from the masking. .....and in boring (but useful) news.... here's what you need to re-glue the vibration dampers. All three had come loose. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Those vibration dampers are a constant battle. I just bought half a dozen from Moto International ($6 or so each). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Those vibration dampers are a constant battle. I just bought half a dozen from Moto International ($6 or so each). Yeah - I figured I'd zip-tie the coil bracket to the frame. It keeps the pressure on the dampers, so even if the glue fails I think it will stay in place. The upper two are easy to zip-tie. The bottom one would be harder to zip-tie, but it already gets pushed forward by the breather hose. They're sitting firm now. And the project is starting to come together. It felt good to get the frame back in order. The candy-apple red felt like a bit of a risk, but I really like it. It looks really different in every kind of light. I know a lot people name their motorcycles (or cars). I've never done that. But IF I were name this one, she'd be Candy-O. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxB8Z7GL6yc 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JesterGrin_1 Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 I'm cleaning up after powdercoating and putting sub-assemblies together. Chasing threads, removing overspray, etc. The candy-apple is taking a little more work than the flat black. It's a two-coat process, first a silver flake, then a translucent red. So the masking can loosen in the oven - letting more of the second coat into undesirable places, such as the ultra-fine threads for the swingarm pivot bolts. Here are some post-powder clean-up tips that I've learned: Use a dremel with wire wheels to remove excess around or in threads that you can get to (like the swingarm arm pivot holes on the porkchops). For small holes, put a little aircraft stripper on the tip of a bolt and work it until the powder disssolves and the threads catch. Or run a q-tip with stripper on it into the hole and let it soak a bit. Clean up threads from the back side whenever possible - and let the bolt push through the clean side - especially important if using stripper so you don't mess up the side that shows. Sandpaper, files, etc to remove various lips or edges from the masking. .....and in boring (but useful) news.... here's what you need to re-glue the vibration dampers. All three had come loose. IMG_5764.jpg I am sorry Scud but I have to very regretfully say WOW That is BEAUTIFUL RED. I wish on the 02 two tone LeMans that they made the valve covers and pork chops RED like that. Maybe the designer felt it would be a bit too much. But heck they could have saved a bit of coin on the pork chops since other models of the same year had Red ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Bench full of bits. And it seems the transmission covers jumped in front of some paint. Freshly powdered fairing bracket and top triple clamp - awaiting a new aguila. Thought I'd clean the ignition switch, but broke it trying to take it apart. Luckily, I had another, which was in better shape anyway. But now that I see the picture, it's gonna bug me if the letters are not at the top... easy fix. And the fork bottoms needed some love - courtesy of VHT Brake Caliper paint. But the coolest thing that happened today (at least motorcycle-wise) was when I came out of the hardware store (needed some stainless screws for the TPS). I saw about a 10 year old boy by my LeMans in the parking lot and heard his mom say "don't touch it." Then he sort of went around the whole bike with his hands about 2 inches off it, following the curves. Fun to watch. When I got closer to him, I asked "Do you like it?" His eyes got huge and he just had a love-struck look on his face. He's gonna have a motorcycle someday. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 And the fork bottoms needed some love - courtesy of VHT Brake Caliper paint. Did you cure that paint? I've used it, and think that it is great stuff, but the product use sheet says : "Curing Caliper Paint - VHT Caliper Paint only attains its unique properties after correct curing. Bake at 200°F (93°C) for 1 hour. The inherent heat of braking operation will also accomplish curing". (for calipers) It might stay soft if you don't heat it. A portable heater aimed at the forks should do it, 93 deg C won't harm the dampers if you monitor temps with an IR heat sensing gun. Plus it will warm the garage for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 There's directions? No, I didn't cure it, but I was gonna hit with a heat gun before I bolt up anything. I used it on some calipers and forks on my BMW without heating it at all and it's holding up fine on the calipers - although the forks are sitting in the corner now, but that's another story. In fact... you just make out those BMW forks in the top left of the second picture. Not sure how you would otherwise heat assembled forks - maybe a radiant heater aimed at them for a while? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Thanks Marty, I see you edited your post to answer my question. I sure appreciate that you read the instructions and offer up ideas. Portable heater on the way, along with a giant seal for a front-load washing machine... apparently, if I can rebuild a motorcycle, I can rebuild a washing machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Trust me, Scudd.. if you are painting,you had better follow the instructions to the letter.Every painting system is different.. the way it is applied, number and kind of cross coats, etc. Depending on the system, doing one thing might look great, pick another system.. do it the same way, and it'll run off on the floor. Disclaimer: I'm not a painter, but I can paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Thanks - maybe I am being a little to playful in the posts here... I do actually read, and follow the instructions on the can. Primer 2 light coats and one medium wet coat - each separated by 10 mins. Wait 30 mins, then apply 3 coats color in same process. I've even been setting a timer between coats. But I have not paid attention to the heat curing instructions in past (I think I probably stopped reading the instructions too soon). So the heat curing is my big recent lesson, thanks to you guys. Good news is... I tested this VHT caliper and case paint on my K75s before I applied it to the Guzzis. I did not do any heat curing on that bike and it's holding up quite well. And now that I've started painting cases again, there are few more to go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unkept Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Great work Scud! I'm happy to see the bike getting so much love. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Thanks, she's coming together nicely - and I've noticed quite a few new parts that you installed. How's Germany? Spring must be on it's way... and riding all over Europe must be on your mind. Your earlier post, where you confirmed that it was Redline heavy in the transmission, got deleted in a server-update. I bet you are glad to have missed seeing that mess in person. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Scud, on 31 Jan 2017 - 07:15 AM, said: ...along with a giant seal for a front-load washing machine... apparently, if I can rebuild a motorcycle, I can rebuild a washing machine. You know that after you powder-coat the washing machine black, you are going to have to do the dryer too. I hope you will start a new thread on the whiteware project. I find your rebuild efforts inspiring. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 I hope you will start a new thread on the whiteware project. I find your rebuild efforts inspiring. Source of leak discovered, new seal installed. Saved at least $200 for 30 minutes of work (compared to having appliance repair service.) I can fix it. We now return to our regularly scheduled motorcycle show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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