Chuck Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 I did some prep and paint on the Lario Rehab thread, pages 5 and 6 http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=58695.150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Thanks guys - I'm much encouraged. I sort of got in the flow with the paint stripper - but that was only because of the crinkle paint, which had to be totally removed. I'll probably paint one of the four parts Saturday and see how close the VHT Nu-Cast Aluminum paint is to the original paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Got the block in. Now waiting for paint on the top-end and a Roper Plate for the bottom end. Based on Chuck's idea to pour kerosene in the combustion chamber to check for leaks, I used diesel fuel instead (cuz that's what I had). No leaks. But it did give me a nice opportunity to clean out the carbon deposits. And here's how the "cast aluminum" color of VHT Engine Paint looks next to original parts. It's a bit brighter than the original paint. Question - should I also clean the carbon deposits off the pistons? If so - should the rings be removed first - or is it OK to mask them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unkept Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Now waiting for paint on the top-end and a Roper Plate for the bottom end. Tim, looks great! I have to ask though, what happened to the Roper Plate I sent you with the original engine? lol -Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Tim, looks great! I have to ask though, what happened to the Roper Plate I sent you with the original engine? lol -Joe I sold it to another member. At the time, I was planning to put the other motor in without taking it apart. But now that it's apart and painted, this is the time to put another plate in. And you know what's funny? Your Indiana title did not list the engine number. California needs to record the engine number when they register it (which is only after I get it running). At that time, they will record the number of whatever engine is in the bike - and that spare engine came from my parts bike, which was crashed.... in Indiana... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Top end paint... Painting the heads and cylinders was not as bad as I feared. Not sure I got total coverage all the way back between the fins, but it was silver already, so it'll be fine. Now I could use a little more advice: I'm leaning toward removing the pistons, partly because I can see that, despite by best efforts, little bits of carbon have flaked off the piston and travelled down among the rings. Plus, I've never removed a piston before, so I am curious (and I will be better able to clean the crowns). Some questions: 1- Installing the stud (which came out with the cap-nut): I figure I'll tighten it with two nuts locked against each other - but should I use loc-tite - and what strength? 2 - Removing piston from connecting rod: I read the manual and I think I can do it, but on page M-46 it says "Remove the piston pin "C" using the special tool, commercially available." So... what is the special tool? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradiso Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 The heads and barrels look great. The 'c' clips look the same as on BMW twins-long nose pliers or a engineer's pick would probably do the job. I think it is recommended that these clips are replaced with new as they are sprung and could fatigue and snap. If you are careful, you'll see if they bend or deform when you remove them. I'd use blue Loctite. You never know if you might need to remove the stud again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 The manual referenced a "special tool" to remove the pin - but I was able to push it out with my finger after removing the clips. I watched some videos about removing piston rings by hand - but when I tried it, it seemed like a bad idea. So I'll get a ring removal/installation tool. Clean pistons on the horizon... On the clips... they came out easily and seem in good condition. So it's "recommended" to replace, but what really happens? Those of you who've done this - do you re-use the clips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 The clips are so cheap, and the cost of a clip coming loose is so big, you should not skimp. A displaced pin can score the bore beyond repair. $5 x4 https://www.motointernational.com/store/product/GU90351038 As for piston rings, you are taking a risk of breaking one if you try to remove them. If it was me, I'd only remove them if I was planning to replace them. $60 ×2 https://www.motointernational.com/store/pistoncylinder-sets/92-mm-ring-set-per-side-for-1100s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 OK - new clips are "cheap insurance." I'll get those. I assumed I should remove the rings so I could clean the piston. How would you clean the carbon deposits off the piston crown - without making a mess inside the ring grooves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbolesaz Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Leave the rings on. Get a small bowl. Turn the piston top down in the bowl and pour in some un-diluted simple green just up to the rings. Let it sit overnight. The carbon will brush off with a toothbrush in the morning. Flush thoroughly around and under the rings. Re-install. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 Good idea. It's soaking in diesel fuel while I have dinner. The diesel cleaned the combustion chambers (along with a toothbrush) in about 1/2 hour. I hope we don't need the rectangle dishes tonight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Italian sushi, California style! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 After you get through & ready to reassemble , make sure you index the piston ring end gap correctly ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 What does "index the piston ring end gap" mean? Is that where I make sure the gaps are not aligned? I noticed that the gaps were at the 6 o'clock, 9 and 3 positions when I removed it. I assume I should keep the rings in the same positions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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