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Starter Relay availability/ CARC


Sempervee1

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  • docc changed the title to Starter Relay availability/ CARC

Easy to agree. Sourcing from DigiKey, Mouser, or onlinecomponents has checked out for me.

Anyone familiar with the Starter Relay @Sempervee1 is looking for?

I was thinking this issue involves a separate relay and a bigger wire to the solenoid (?)

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7 hours ago, gstallons said:

Please understand that Amazon sells cheap , not quality . Make sure about what you are buying

Cheap? well not anymore.

As they have now become the norm, they are no longer providing cheaper goods than the brick and mortar.

Besides they are also taking cost cutting measures, not mentioning twisting the hands of those companies that sell on A.com.

Now they have allowed a lot of third party sellers underneath them, I have had a lot of unpleasant surprises.

Now A.com is my last resort. I make an effort to purchase from other store fronts or local dealers whenever possible. Even if I have to pay for the shipping and wait longer.

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45 minutes ago, p6x said:

Now A.com is my last resort. I make an effort to purchase from other store fronts or local dealers whenever possible. Even if I have to pay for the shipping and wait longer.

Amazon has always been my last resort. To the extent that I honestly believe that I have never bought anything from Amazon. :huh2:

 

anyway, the pertinent question of the moment seems to me to be this one:

1 hour ago, pete roper said:

Yup. What makes you think it's the relay? What is it doing?

 

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I just want a back up Starter L5A  Relay just in case -  as I just lat week had to replace the Auxiliary 4 pin Horn relay & fuse the previous owner installed for both the yellow wire and fused connection to the battery, and the same relay is also using the horn.   Along with the back up L5A relay I believe after spending far too long reading and researching this woe beset upon by most CARC owners, I am going to install an easy to reach Solenoid to automotive button to battery+  bypassing all the spaghetti wiring, ecm, and relays as a defensiveback up emergency starter.    Thanks for leaning in Pete & Docc and everyone else.  Yes I will order from MPH or AF1 for the back up relay just in case.

fuse fix.jpeg

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Another really important thing is to make sure you actually have a 20AH battery in good condition. With the bikes that use a YTX 20-CH BS a common problem is that owners, and shops who should know better, fit a dimensionally identical 16AH battery instead of the 20. This works, for a while, but once the battery begins to deteriorate it can end up causing arcing at both the relay and solenoid contacts and you get the dreaded no-start problem. 
 

I don't believe this is an issue with Norges and Sports as much as they use a different 20AH battery but it would be worth double checking what you have installed.

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15 hours ago, p6x said:

Cheap? well not anymore.

As they have now become the norm, they are no longer providing cheaper goods than the brick and mortar.

Besides they are also taking cost cutting measures, not mentioning twisting the hands of those companies that sell on A.com.

Now they have allowed a lot of third party sellers underneath them, I have had a lot of unpleasant surprises.

Now A.com is my last resort. I make an effort to purchase from other store fronts or local dealers whenever possible. Even if I have to pay for the shipping and wait longer.

For the BEST quality "stuff" , go to places that sell aircraft quality parts . They have to be good quality . You don't need your fixed wing or rotor vehicles on the side of the road because you bought something from Temu because it saved you 10% on the relay or is a counterfeit part. BTW , there are counterfeit Motorcraft and AC Delco parts selling on all kinds of websites.

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Yes Pete I have  a good YTX-20 battery installed less than a year ago and kept on  maint charger.  I know electrons on this bike are unusually finicky.  I have checked with running at idle and high rpm and off voltage.  Although Vroomhilda never shows more than 13.2 running when the digital voltage meter always shows more.  Somewhere in the snaggle of wiring there is a drop in voltage from age I would imagine and other assorted fuckery.

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