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Possible bad rectifier?


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I have recently inherited my father's 01 V11 sport and it seems to be having a bit of an electrical issue. The battery was shot when I got it. I live in Kansas City so I picked up a new Odesy out at Harper's. When I put the battery in it was reading between 13.4-14 when running. Took the bike out yesterday and after about a 25 min ride the tach started to sweep as if the bike was just being turned on and would then return to the RPMs the engine was running at. This would occure about every 30 seconds -2 mins. I turned around right away to get the bike home and aside from the tach it was running like a top. Got home and the battery was sitting at 12.65v while off and only 12.85 - 13.2 volts when running. I would have to have it between 3-4k rpm to get over 13 volts. I put the bike on the tender over night. This morning it was at 12.96v when sitting but when I started the bike up it was hovering around 12.5v at idle.  Electrical issues are in no way my forte and I'm probably just going to take the bike out to Harper's and have them go through the whole charging system but figured I would post here for any tipes between now and a few days when I can get it there. Does this sound like the problems could be caused by a bad rectifier?

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6 minutes ago, LaGrasta said:

That is much less than I have seen on Guzzi specific sites. Has anyone on here used this Amazon product before and can vouch for it?

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Before you do that, make sure the headlight is working. In the headlight there are two bulbs, one standard low beam / high beam headlight bulb and one running light bulb. It is easy to mistake the running light bulb being on for the headlight working. If the headlight bulb isn't working the regulator won't properly charge the battery. Because it uses the voltage on the headlight circuit after the headlight bulb to measure battery voltage. The bulb can be burnt out or the circuit might be off (blown fuse or faulty relay).

You may need a new regulator, but make sure before going that way.

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54 minutes ago, GuzziMoto said:

Before you do that, make sure the headlight is working. In the headlight there are two bulbs, one standard low beam / high beam headlight bulb and one running light bulb. It is easy to mistake the running light bulb being on for the headlight working. If the headlight bulb isn't working the regulator won't properly charge the battery. Because it uses the voltage on the headlight circuit after the headlight bulb to measure battery voltage. The bulb can be burnt out or the circuit might be off (blown fuse or faulty relay).

You may need a new regulator, but make sure before going that way.

Thanks for the tips GuzziMoto. Just checked and I do have high/low beams. I know all my fuses are good as I have checked those over. I have a new set of relays arriving today or tomorrow and will be swapping them out just to cross that off my list before taking it to the shop. 

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1 hour ago, motoguzzikc said:

That is much less than I have seen on Guzzi specific sites. Has anyone on here used this Amazon product before and can vouch for it?

I have not used this rectifier, however https://4into1.com/ is a reputable site, of which I've ordered from in the past.

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Cheaper, check connections from alternator. Bulletconnectors and all kind of horrible connections. Mine started  to flip the tach, then misfiring and dead. Melted connectors. 

Cheers Tom.

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10 minutes ago, Tomchri said:

Cheaper, check connections from alternator. Bulletconnectors and all kind of horrible connections. Mine started  to flip the tach, then misfiring and dead. Melted connectors. 

Cheers Tom.

Thanks Tom, I'll take a look at them. 

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From a broad perspective, it’s arguably the most common issue with any old Italian motorcycle, the electrical system.  Years ago I just determined that I’d go through the electrics and do the handful of usually affordable and not-to-tricky upgrades on the front end, and life has been easier ever since, with all my beloved Italians.

I’ve not done much with fuse blocks, though docc and many others have a lot of insight there.  Mine have always looked great, so I haven’t messed with that.

But  checking for good grounding (can be a “free” fix for a lot of issues), the mosfet VR retrofit, new & good relays, and at least checking if not also just pro-actively upgrading the wire connectors is time/money well spent for longer term peace of mind. 
 

I’ve purchased a number of mosfet upgrades from roadstercycle, which were quite a bit more expensive, but he specs out some good (or great) quality connectors and wiring, which is handy. 

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Yeah, I try to buy quality whenever possible. I would rather only buy it once.

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6 hours ago, motoguzzikc said:

I have recently inherited my father's 01 V11 sport and it seems to be having a bit of an electrical issue. The battery was shot when I got it. I live in Kansas City so I picked up a new Odesy out at Harper's. When I put the battery in it was reading between 13.4-14 when running. Took the bike out yesterday and after about a 25 min ride the tach started to sweep as if the bike was just being turned on and would then return to the RPMs the engine was running at. This would occure about every 30 seconds -2 mins. I turned around right away to get the bike home and aside from the tach it was running like a top. Got home and the battery was sitting at 12.65v while off and only 12.85 - 13.2 volts when running. I would have to have it between 3-4k rpm to get over 13 volts. I put the bike on the tender over night. This morning it was at 12.96v when sitting but when I started the bike up it was hovering around 12.5v at idle.  Electrical issues are in no way my forte and I'm probably just going to take the bike out to Harper's and have them go through the whole charging system but figured I would post here for any tipes between now and a few days when I can get it there. Does this sound like the problems could be caused by a bad rectifier?

This is classic Relay#2 (complicated by Relay#1) failure. This compromises the tach and the charging reference.What variety of relays are under the seat, @motoguzzikc?

Replace all your relays with the currently available High Current 5-pin referenced in this thread answer:

 

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Docc- based off pass posts I read on here concerning relays I ordered a 10 pack of CIT A11CSQ24VDC1.2D from digikey and they are supposed to arrive tomorrow. I had replaced them all before however this was when the bad battery was still in the bike. I had assumed that running new relays on the battery that didn't hold a charge had damaged them and since they are pretty inexpensive I just went ahead and ordered new relays last week. 

EDIT/correction: correct relay:            CIT A11CSQ12VDC1.5R

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If its rectifier check your connections and make sure you purchase one that has matching connections and will plug and play.   Saves a lot of hassle. 

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14 hours ago, motoguzzikc said:

Docc- based off pass posts I read on here concerning relays I ordered a 10 pack of CIT A11CSQ24VDC1.2D from digikey and they are supposed to arrive tomorrow. I had replaced them all before however this was when the bad battery was still in the bike. I had assumed that running new relays on the battery that didn't hold a charge had damaged them and since they are pretty inexpensive I just went ahead and orderd new relays last week. 

New quality relays is always a good idea. Also, make sure the bases where they plug into are clean and tight. A quality relay with a bad connect doesn't work any better then a cheap relay with a good connection.

Back when we would travel on motorcycles we would always carry a spare set of relays for the wife's V11. We only needed them a couple times,  but when you need them you need them, and you aren't going to find them in the middle of Pennsyltucky.

A classic sign that the relay was not working was also the lack of a tail light as I recall. We did run into situations were the relay would stick and only work some of the time. The clues that the relay was not working were a weak headlight (because the real headlight would not work, only the running light worked), the tach would act up, and the taillight would not work.

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