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Posted
8 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

I had it matched perfectly at the local automotive paint supplier. The guy there did it by eye, no fancy spectrometer. Re painted pork chop against original seat and main frame. The colour match is perfect but the lovely depth and gloss of the 2K paint is way better than the original paint/powder coat. 

Phil

DSC00961.JPG

 

Every time I touch this thing it comes further apart and costs more lol

Well, the frame's off the motor now, as it was the  front engine mount that needs the paint...I do get the brother-in-law deal at the painter but I was more thinking 'automotive engine enamel fire engine red'. 
<sigh> I was waiting to decide on the bodywork until it was mechanically sound, but maybe I'll just pack it up and take it all tomorrow. 

  • Like 4
Posted (edited)
On 8/22/2025 at 12:43 AM, Pressureangle said:

Double check me, if anyone has documentation;

Steering head bearings; 30205

I found the packet of the steering head bearings I put in recently. Also SKF, the number on the packet is

30205 J2/Q

Haven't ridden it with them yet, as there are other issues pending, but they went in and bolted up perfectly.

I think I bought them from Wendel in Berlin, but it might also have been Stein-Dinse. Either way, I didn't make a guess; they are from a reknowned supplier and were sold as a legitimate replacement part. :)

Edited by audiomick
  • Like 2
Posted

Wheel bearings today. Rears were original, spacer was a bit short to make me happy with the new bearings, so tossed in a .75mm valve spring shim. Can move spacer slightly with fingers, pushing in on bearing races tightens spacer. Nice.

Pic shown is an easy compare between spacer length and hub shoulder; the washer, when slid around on the spacer, just whisks the bearing shoulder. Needs a bit of clearance not to be tight when assembled. To measure, Phil's way, the spacer is about .005"-.010" short. About +.010" long with shim.

The inside of the rear hub was just as nasty as the inside of the drive box, so the hub and spacer got a nice rubdown and again, cosmoline is your best friend.

Front bearings, one had been replaced; buggers were TIGHT coming out so much I wondered if I misunderstood what was going on with the spacer. A little cleanup in the bores and a touch of cosmoline and the new ones went in... less tight. Much tighter than the rears. 
 

cleanhub.jpg

spacercheck.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

Before I found the stock bar mounts in a box labelled "SV Parts" I bought the Ballabio mounts from the bike with forks discussed above. Looks like the Ballabio mounts go above the top tree, rather than under it? Can anyone say if the top tree is the same, and how much difference in height between the two setups? 

I think I have the bars stuck in backward but it's reversible. I promise to get it right.

 

barmounts.jpg

Posted

I reckon you'll find the Ballabio fork stanchions enough longer to mount the clip-ons above the triple clamp.

As to the top tree, @Lucky Phil did some thorough investigation of how they changed over the range. Seems I recall he verified that the bore angle changed. I hope he chimes in, otherwise I will try to find that thread . . . :nerd:

  • Like 2
Posted

Investigation shows the bars are the same height, with the Ballabio mounts being about a handlebar width closer to the fork tube. Cleaner look, though. Probably won't want to drop the front enough to fit them. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Cameras. Huh. 

The pics really don't show what the eye sees here, but.
The stock porkchops have turned a shade of purple south of red, noticeably darker than the frame. I bought a set of porkchops from TLM to get the swingarm pivot pins, and they were nicer overall so I cleaned them up and painted them to swap on. I found red caliper paint, much more durable than regular enamel, to be a pretty good match; again the camera doesn't really show the shade well, given the stock trans mount has the sheen off due to age and cleaning, the porkchops not yet dry. I think they'll end up very close, perhaps a half tone brighter and certainly shinier than the frame- though I did paint the front engine mount so most of what you can see will be the same.



 

CaliperRed.jpg

porkchopcolor.jpg

Redcompare.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted
1 hour ago, Pressureangle said:

... the Ballabio mounts ...

 

barmounts.jpg

I don't think either of those belong to a Ballabio. A look at some parts lists just now indicates that the Ballabio had a handlebar, not clip-ons.

Looks like this:

01600382_s.jpg

https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/moto-guzzi-lenker-grau-v11-caf-sport-ballabio-coppa/item-2-1021515-01600382-.html

 

The ones in the picture look to be one from the various Le Mans iterations at the top

https://wendelmotorraeder.de/halblenker-kpl-links_gu01600761-p-1035365.html?ref=expl

and the earlier Sport variations below that

https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/moto-guzzi-stummellenker-links-v11-sport-1999-2001/item-2-1021524-01600731-.html

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
14 minutes ago, audiomick said:

I don't think either of those belong to a Ballabio. A look at some parts lists just now indicates that the Ballabio had a handlebar, not clip-ons.

Looks like this:

01600382_s.jpg

https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/moto-guzzi-lenker-grau-v11-caf-sport-ballabio-coppa/item-2-1021515-01600382-.html

 

The ones in the picture look to be one from the various Le Mans iterations at the top

https://wendelmotorraeder.de/halblenker-kpl-links_gu01600761-p-1035365.html?ref=expl

and the earlier Sport variations below that

https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/moto-guzzi-stummellenker-links-v11-sport-1999-2001/item-2-1021524-01600731-.html

 

 

Yes you're right, someone above pointed out the bike in question on eBay appears to be a later Sport, not a Ballabio at all. 

  • Like 2
Posted

@Pressureangle If you don’t end up using the top mounted clip-ons and would like to offload them, please let me know, I’ve been looking for a good used set of those for a while. :bike:

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
28 minutes ago, Speedfrog said:

@Pressureangle If you don’t end up using the top mounted clip-ons and would like to offload them, please let me know, I’ve been looking for a good used set of those for a while. :bike:

PM me. These seem to be in perfect shape.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Pressureangle said:

...someone above pointed out the bike in question on eBay appears to be a later Sport, not a Ballabio at all. 

I think that was me. :whistle:

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Yes not Ballabio. Ballabio had handlebars and later canted triples but with the the top triple not having 6mm holes for the over the clamp clip ons locating bolts. The over the clamp clip on are around 1 inch higher and don't vibrate as much as the under clamp swan neck clip ons. Forks were 43mm hollow axle with nut on the left which are longer than the original 40mm forks for under the clamp clipons..

Phil

Edited by Lucky Phil
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 8/22/2025 at 6:22 PM, Pressureangle said:

...but it ain't. 

So, that little roller bearing on the swingarm end of the rear drive, that gets rusty if you pay it no mind?
Well, behind that is a steel spacer which also gets rusty, and plenty of space for water to collect with no exit. 
This bearing looked *fine* from the spline side. But I could'nt rotate it with a finger, and you can't get it out without taking the crown gear out. Lo and behold. So this should probably be added to the 'every so often'/'x miles'/'x years' maintenance check. 

 

rustyside.jpg

rustyside.jpg

You will want to be certain that internal corrosion has not damaged the "nose" of the crown wheel lest the deep seal cannot (seal) . . .

IMG_4845.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
36 minutes ago, docc said:

 

You will want to be certain that internal corrosion has not damaged the "nose" of the crown wheel lest the deep seal cannot (seal) . . .

IMG_4845.jpg

Yup, nope, mine is good. Just the tip, nothing on the seal area and even then buffed off well. 

  • Like 2

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