p6x Posted May 24 Author Posted May 24 On 5/15/2025 at 11:40 PM, pete roper said: I can’t stress strongly enough. If you did ride 200 miles without oil there will be serious damage and you are taking a great risk riding it further. It will not of escaped unscathed. Point taken. 1
p6x Posted May 24 Author Posted May 24 On 5/15/2025 at 11:40 PM, pete roper said: Look, as I keep saying. If you want confirmation? Just pull the bevelbox and pull out the pinion carrier and pinion. You wouldn’t hesitate to pull the back wheel if you had a flat tire would you? Well it’s the same deal and then four more nuts that hold the bevelbox on. It's the plan! 2
audiomick Posted May 24 Posted May 24 2 hours ago, p6x said: ... I do not think the rear wheel would lock up because of a drive pinion worn down prematurely.... Neither do I. However, @pete roper did mention the possibility that maybe a tooth could break off due to heat damage caused by the lack of oil. That made me re-think the whole situation. 1
p6x Posted May 25 Author Posted May 25 On 5/15/2025 at 11:40 PM, pete roper said: Once it’s on the bench all that is required to pull out the pinion carrier is to separate the flange from the casing. Sometimes it will simply pull out with a tug on the pinion. Sometimes you need to give the flange a couple of biffs with a hammer and drift to get it to separate a bit and then you can pry it forward until it comes loose and you can pull it out. Once it’s out the head of the pinion is staring you in the face. I have removed the bevelled box from the shaft. The pinion carrier does not come out. I don't have a bench. I hold the box by the spine, and with a soft hammer I have tried giving a few knocks on the carter to get it moving; so far, without luck. It is not the best set up, since I am holding it by hand. I think I am going to remove the flange. It may help to look at it from the inside. 1
p6x Posted May 25 Author Posted May 25 2 hours ago, p6x said: I have removed the bevelled box from the shaft. The pinion carrier does not come out. I don't have a bench. I hold the box by the spine, and with a soft hammer I have tried giving a few knocks on the carter to get it moving; so far, without luck. It is not the best set up, since I am holding it by hand. I think I am going to remove the flange. It may help to look at it from the inside. No luck removing that pinion assembly from the carter. The drain plug is again full of burrs, which makes me think there is much more than what the magnet can capture. I have reinstalled the bevelled box on the bike, the rear wheel, so I can move the bike out of the way. My next move will be to bring that bevelled box to a workshop so they can remove the pinion assy. I removed all the screws of the flange, all were stopped with loctite, it was fun. I don't have a power driver, I only use hand tools... The flange did not budge either. 1 1
pete roper Posted May 25 Posted May 25 Removing the plate will drop the ring gear and it’s carrier out but it can be quite difficult because of the sealant used on the shim and gasket. Persevere with the pinion carrier. Turn it ro the wheel side is uppermost and then use an old screwdriver to get in behind the pinion carrier flange. A couple of lust blows with a hammer will move it a couple of mm and it can then be levered out using two flat bladed drivers. If you persist in pulling the flange you will likely need an expanding puller to fit under the splines in the crownwheel carrier and can either push on the spacer or pull on it using a bridge. 2
p6x Posted May 25 Author Posted May 25 39 minutes ago, pete roper said: Removing the plate will drop the ring gear and it’s carrier out but it can be quite difficult because of the sealant used on the shim and gasket. I realized it immediately after I found each screw had some sealant or Loctite on them. It was fastidious to remove them, and once they were all out, the flange did not move at all. It was worth trying. 40 minutes ago, pete roper said: Persevere with the pinion carrier. Turn it ro the wheel side is uppermost and then use an old screwdriver to get in behind the pinion carrier flange. A couple of lust blows with a hammer will move it a couple of mm and it can then be levered out using two flat bladed drivers. I am afraid to break the casing or damage the flange. If I could hold the pinion carrier spline in a vice, with protection to not damage it, I would probably be able to do a better job. Tuesday, I will go to one of the motorcycle dealers I know, and I will ask them if they let me use one of their vice. 1
p6x Posted May 27 Author Posted May 27 Something came to mind last night, while we were under heavy thunderstorms in Houston.... Why don't I use the oil level port, to chase the pinion out, using a bronze rod.... this would work better, since I would act directly on the pinion head... Now I need to find a bronze rod that can go through the oil lever port. Also, once I get the pinion carrier out, what can I use to clean the inside of the box from any burrs, without damaging the o'ring and seal?
gstallons Posted May 27 Posted May 27 Brake-Kleen and compressed air. Replace all seals and o-rings when you do this .
pete roper Posted May 27 Posted May 27 5 hours ago, p6x said: Something came to mind last night, while we were under heavy thunderstorms in Houston.... Why don't I use the oil level port, to chase the pinion out, using a bronze rod.... this would work better, since I would act directly on the pinion head... Now I need to find a bronze rod that can go through the oil lever port. Also, once I get the pinion carrier out, what can I use to clean the inside of the box from any burrs, without damaging the o'ring and seal? You’re making this way more complicated than it has to be. Really, your gears will be way beyond buggered. A second hand box is a far easier and cheaper proposition. I’d also be very surprised if you could poke at the pinion head from behind through the level port. There’s just too much stuff in the way. The axle of the crownwheel carrier for starters. 3
p6x Posted May 27 Author Posted May 27 2 hours ago, pete roper said: You’re making this way more complicated than it has to be. Really, your gears will be way beyond buggered. A second hand box is a far easier and cheaper proposition. I’d also be very surprised if you could poke at the pinion head from behind through the level port. There’s just too much stuff in the way. The axle of the crownwheel carrier for starters. I want to have a look to see what 220 miles of riding without oil did. I have the oil fill port to check what is in the way. If I can't get it out this way, I will go back to finding a vise. 1
p6x Posted May 27 Author Posted May 27 @pete roper I see what you mean. No access from the oil level port. 1
p6x Posted May 28 Author Posted May 28 @audiomick I found a tutorial of what you need to do to adjust the flange and the pinion. The Guzzi manual shows what you should achieve, and what to do in case the wear is not as in example #1. He explains that the one he is showing has done 200,000 km. And the pinion ate the spline. 1
pete roper Posted May 28 Posted May 28 Looking in the shed for something else entirely I found all my bevelbox shims today! I thought I’d given them away. If you understand how to set up bevel gears it isn’t terribly difficult, although it can be time consuming. It isn’t something most novices would undertake, at least without close supervision by someone experienced because the results of getting it wrong tend to be very expensive. 4
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