Had a breakdown today. Caught on camera. Any thoughts folks?

[Molly]

1 hour ago, gstallons said:

Do you own a temp gun ? They're not expensive or find any shop that has one or an infra-red camera to check the temps of things for you .

No. Not presently but any excuse to buy more tools.... :-) 

[Molly]

23 hours ago, pete roper said:

They’re the feed for your Moto Guzzi branded heated penis gourd. Sadly this was not a popular accessory and was only available for a period of a few short weeks in the early 2000’s.
 

Why they were unpopular at the time remains a mystery and now, two decades on, are one of the most prized and sought after accessories, especially among the ‘Cold of Todger’, most noticeably with owners in the higher latitudes. 
 

Unfortunately in recent years there have been a variety of cheap impersonations of the original product but being from shadowy, nameless suppliers from a variety of nations not prized for the quality of their low-volume knock-off products. This has led to unfounded claims of both ‘Chaffing’ and, even more worrying, ‘Scalding’ when wearing these doppelgänger products!

At the end of the day, unless you are able to secure an original, factory, item they are best avoided. As mentioned, they rarely come up for sale but if you post a request for help finding one I would suggest a site like Canadian or Scandinavian Grindr. Do be prepared to have to sieve through the responses carefully for genuine replies.

 

Managed to source an original example. It's a snug fit but keeps things toasty. 

[pete roper]

That is not a ‘Temp Gun’ it is obviously some sort of weak American version of the cover of a ‘Mutton Gun’. It is very much smaller than its Australian counterpart.

It also bares no resemblance to a Penis Gourd. If you think it does there are a number of tribes in the highlands of Papua New Guinea and the depths of the Amazon rain forest who would like to ‘Have a Chat’! With the PNG crew that might also involve a meal. One at which you might be the main course!

[docc]

4 hours ago, Molly said:

Ah. Thanks. I should hook a fan up to them and place it over the fuses. ;-)

Out on my first ride since the breakdown. Just ten or so miles to a cafe in Ramsey (Isle of Man). Put my finger on that 30A fuse upon arrival. Felt quite warm. Could be my paranoia. 

 

 

2 hours ago, gstallons said:

Do you own a temp gun ? They're not expensive or find any shop that has one or an infra-red camera to check the temps of things for you .

Keep an (infrared) eye on that nefarious fuse. And also the relays, especially #5 (the furthest back).

Using the "Best Relay" is well indicated for reliability.

 

[Tomchri]

Or as mentioned Many times, a small unseen build with a direct regulator. 30amp fuse on holiday. Worth it if it’s a keeper.

Cheers Tom.

[Molly]

Decided to add an extra earth to the bike. Removed the connection at the back of the gearbox and gave everything a good clean, wire brush, contact cleaner. Reconnected tighter than two big bags of tight things together with the earth strap shown. Covered the connection with grease. 

The cable was precisely the right length to connect to the frame where the exhaust mounts (no risk of it coming into contact with the UJ). Cleaned all that up and finished as above. Painted the exposed metal with Hammerite Smooth Red (a very good match). Hope I haven't inadvertently connected it in such a way as to disturb the space-time continuum. ;-) 

 

 

[Kiwi_Roy]

the 30 Amp fuse melting is caused by resistance.

heat is caused by resistance x the current squared

sometimes this will weld the fuse in place.

in this case it has melted the plastic, it might have also taken any tension out of the contacts in which case you may have to provide a new fuse holder. I seem to recall this was a common fault when I first started posting on this site years ago and i may have had the problem on my VII Sport

Edited June 23 by Kiwi_Roy

[Kiwi_Roy]

On 5/26/2025 at 6:08 AM, Molly said:

Bearing in mind I've never tested a rectifier before, I watched a YT example and both my yellow wires returned very close readings. Good sign? Thank you, Pete. 

I see here you are testing the diodes (meter switch to the diode position that's about the only testing you can do.

If by chance you find that one of the diodes is open circuit its possible to add a new diode outside the case the circuit just goes Yellow wire through the diode to the regulator case.

You still need the yellow to go to the internal circuit it's part of a bridge rectifier a pair of diodes and a pair of Silicon controlled rectifiers.

I used to have a circuit diagram I drew of the regulator but I have misplaced it.

If you reverse the leads the meter shows Open circuit right?

When it failed I think the battery was flat (no fuel, No spark)

When you put the regulator back on the case has a good connection to chassis?

looking at the male/female connection to the loom where the regulator plugs inwith the key On you see +12V on the female to chassis? it is the power supply and voltage reference tapped off the headlight supply wire under the tank the male plug of the M/F connector gets the voltage it needs to work from there.

Clean the ignition switch, look up from underneath you will see two phillips screws holding the switch block to the lock, take those out and the block will come away in your hand prise it apart and clean out the old grease, replace with new soft Vaseline.

 

Good Luck

Roy

 

Edited July 9 by Kiwi_Roy
Note re open diode

[Kiwi_Roy]

On 5/26/2025 at 6:12 AM, docc said:

For completeness, look carefully at where the two yellow wires are (supposed to be) attached to the windings . . .

This is another weak point, my VII sport failed there as well.

don't try to re-attach the copper will be corroded, just replace both wires back to the regulator.

Note, the bullet connectors at the regulator are not a standard size you would be better off crimping the wires there with a suitable size of crimp link.

Roy

Edited June 27 by Kiwi_Roy
I remembered the wires will be corroded

[Kiwi_Roy]

Molly,

          Many owners have gone before you, the wiring is a weak point on Guzzis, I went through a failed regulator and broken wires inside the alternator also

Roy

[audiomick]

9 hours ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

...you will see two phillips screws holding the switch block to the lock, take those out ....

...measure them, and throw them away. Get some decent replacements with a hex-head or a torx or something. A phillips head in that position is just a pain in the arse. Too hard to get at to be able to put enough pressure on the head with a screw-driver to get it out without stripping out the head. 

Edited June 27 by audiomick