Neutral Switch alternatives

[docc]

I realize, now, when I referred to the contact I was thinking of the external connection for the wire rather than inside where the real action is.

Thanks for all the replies, so far.  I'm still hoping someone recognizes this switch from their Fiat or Lancia . . .

[gstallons]

docc , you know this was not made for MG but they outsourced it .  Some source like an import psrts warehouse should be able to fix us up.

[audiomick]

15 hours ago, docc said:

I thought someone had an alternative, but the connection was a male spade, instead of that "T" disc . . .

 

Yes, I can remember reading a discussion about that, but not who wrote it. 

[gstallons]

Yeah , it was one here but IDK how to find it.

[leroysch]

On 7/3/2025 at 7:46 PM, docc said:

What was your outcome, @leroysch?

My switch reliably functioned when removed, powered, and plunger-fingered. I was surprised by how little the plunger needed to move before opening the circuit, though. Just about one step beyond "looking at it the wrong way" for it to change state.

[docc]

On 7/4/2025 at 7:52 PM, leroysch said:

My switch reliably functioned when removed, powered, and plunger-fingered. I was surprised by how little the plunger needed to move before opening the circuit, though. Just about one step beyond "looking at it the wrong way" for it to change state.

I couldn't measure how little the plunger moves to close the switch, but is has to be less than 0.004" (maybe as little as 0.002").  "A skosh " . . . 

So, my circuit tested good (light on when wire-end connector grounded, off when open), and the switch tested good (considering the wee skosh of movement to actuate). So, I am happy, yet surprised, to report a new crush washer was the solution. For now. Some things don't stay fixed.

I also found my shift lever striking the lower hook of the Frame Side Plate/ "Stiletto " on the downstroke. Lengthened the connector rod one full turn of the rear rose/Heim joint. As noted, "Some things don't stay fixed. "

 

[leroysch]

Glad that you avoided that switch $!

[docc]

18 minutes ago, leroysch said:

Glad that you avoided that switch $!

I think we should be sourcing a "compatible part" instead of the Gu$$i part. 
 

I feel certain someone posted this switch with a male spade connector (instead of the "T-disc"). Yet, I cannot find it . . .

[gstallons]

Yeah , when you realize what is / is not in this switch then you conclude they are charging about $90 too much. It is literally a door jamb switch.  That reminds me , I will look through my Standard Ignition Buyer's Guide and see what I can find.

[docc]

No alternative sources for this simple switch?  I know someone posted one here before with a connection variation ( cannot find that post . . . )

After shimming my switch with a new (on hand) crush washer, the switch function was restored.

One more amazing, honorable shout-out to this forum and its contributors!  

My wire connection, female spade connector, to the switch is really weak, and the rubber boot has hardened. The other day, I saw the neutral light flickering at idle and thought about the middle /#3/ "Sidestand"/ Neutral Switch Relay.

This is the least stressed relay in our five relay stack. I consider it the "back up relay" if you need to swap one into a more demanding position (#1, #2, #5).

My #3 is my oldest, 2021, and only remaining OMRON G8HE. Yes, I paint-pen the installation date on each relay.

I was all staged to replace the middle/#3/ "sidestand"/ Neutral Switch Relay with a fresh OMRON and remembered:

The Neutral Light illuminates from the Neutral Switch/connection (not the #3 relay). 

The Neutral Light can come on, yet the #3 relay has failed and the bike will not start and run with the sidestand down (failed relay).

Or the Neutral Light can get flinky and it's the switch or the connection to the switch, but not the relay.

A work in progress . . .