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@gstallons Thank you for your suggestion. I'll keep an eye open!

I did not match flow and pressure, since MG Cycle sells the Osias, i ass-u-me 'd the thing pushes gas at some rate comparable to the factory pump... Such thinking might not be terribly logical and unecessarily unwise, but burning up what remaining time i have left orbiting the sun, less now than before i decided to write this entertaining drivel, and unlike the folly of my youth, i don't let stuff like that take up any more space in my brain than i decide i want to give it. The LeMans starts quick, idles evenly and accelerates strong through the all gears from idle to 115, so the pump must give the LeMans what it needs. I just don't like the whine. But, hell, what Guzzi doesn't have a distant cousin who isn't a tractor... And when i want to ride something more like a horse drawn plow, i hop on my '27 Harley i built from parts (: Where can i source a Bosch fuel pump? Or, what's the part number? Thanks for suggesting the Bosch.

@p6x Dont know if it has been mentioned, but that plug might have fallen out two miles from home. I have a hard time believing you could stay upright on a greased tire for 200 miles, let alone have that rear drive keep spinning for that distance. Rear drive fluid has a distinctive odor...I think you could have caught a whiff of it sometime soon after the leak occurred. Maybe backtrack in the car for a short distance to get a visual of where the dump occurred? Might be a possibility, or maybe it's too late now. I hope another biker didn't go through your oil slick. Glad you made it home.

Your speedo works? Lucky

And a sissy bar, at least 3 feet long.

I don't know why anyone would put that much effort in and not go all the way with it. It needs much longer forks, spoke wheels with no unsightly brake rotors, and elongated shark-fin-tipped dual exhaust (preferably straight pipes without any baffles). I would also hose-clamp a couple highway pegs onto the headers.

As long as Mr. Darwin is allowed to have a say in it, that's ok.

Ah, hadn't noticed that. In the plastic bag next to that extraneous triple clamp...

Solutions tend to be evolutionary . . .

Oh dear....

I see at least one "leftover" relay . . . Then, I got a cramp in my leg looking at the 14" saddle height above the footpeg . . .

Yea docc, you don't get damage like that with Petes method. Thats a shop press support "gone wrong" situation. As for the weld it up solution I'd pass on that as well due to distortion issues. Phil

This happened to my V11 reardrive at an independent shop with many years of Guzzi experience and was their "tried and true" method to dismantle the Guzzi reardrive. While I did not witness the act, I got "The Call" that things had not gone well attempting to replace the seals and they were sending the unit "out" (that did not go well, either ) and would weld the crack. I asked if the crack was at 7:00 or 9:00 or what? They said, "Yes." Turns out, the flange split from the top at 11:00 (looking from the right side of the bike), down the back of the flange along the actual housing, to within an inch of the lower edge at 7:00; that close to breaking it off. I have taken V11 rear drives apart since, myself, without this drop-method. Maybe fine for the Quota drive with the narrow flange, but just a "heads-up" on that the larger "bell" flange of the V11 SpineFrames could be vulnerable.

Unless maybe the heat was from something a little more aggressive than the heat gun that Pete suggested?

Were you around to witness this happening docc? I've machined that flange off and if you look at the image above it's like 3mm thick at the box and about 2mm thick at the periphery. I still have the removed piece in the workshop. It would take some sort of 6 inch bench drop to break a section of that thing off even at the periphery. Now a ham fisted set up in a press I wouldn't doubt but a heat and drop on a wooden bench, hmm. Phil

Incidently, I reckon a potential new owner might be scratching his head trying to figure out where this bit fits onto a V11 Sport.

OK. I’ve never had a problem but I’ll take that on caution.

I learned, the hard way (from some guys that tried that on my V11 reardrive), that drop-method has the chance of fracturing the broader V11 flange (mine broke).

And that despite the "or best offer". I would have at least given him two quid for it.

Oh, no need for pullers really. If you just place the box face down on a couple of bits of wood and heat the centre where the bearing is with a heat gun until it’s nice and hot and then lift the box and drop it on the wood the outer race of the inner bearing usually just drops out. Whe one on the plate on the wheel side you just remove the seal and then use a big socket or the like to press the bearing out of the plate supporting the plate on both sides in a press. Once again a bit of zealously applied hot air from a heat gun will ease its removal.

That, and I reckon there is some electrical stuff in between the side plates, more or less where the airbox should be. Maybe the battery? Whatever, he must have put a fair bit of effort into "customising" the poor thing. The question is, why so much effort to get to that result?

You can buy an aluminium mag plug to fit on ebay from China for like $2 Phil

I'm suspecting the battery and all the electrics now live under the fuel tank? How I don't know.

Thanks for sharing your experience, Pete (again...). I wasn't aware that this could happen.