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A few words on this... Basically, I'm of the same opinion as @docc here. Regarding batteries: modern Lithium-ion batteries are much better at not getting a "memory", living with lower charge states and what-have-you. As a sound engineer, I've spent the last 40-odd years dealing with things that run on batteries. Experience shows that it is better to regularly make sure they get charged properly, then let them cycle for a while as the manufacurer intended, then make sure they get a good charge, then let them cycle, and so on. The lead-acid variants that we find in our motorcycles belong to the category that this applies to. Cheap trickle chargers don't do the business. Docc has the right approach: proper charger, let it cycle, proper charger. And now, back to the topic in question: why is your charging system doing weird bollocks?

My memory is unfortunately foggy one the chain of events, but I will try to reconstruct them here. After the first Odyssey showed signs of bubbling and bloating - with no alert from the charging lamp - I assumed to regulator was bad, and that the reg was overcharging the battery, hence the bloating. So I replaced the reg, along with my current "new" Odyssey battery. Next, I took the bike for a ride and the battery light lit up again, so I suspected the stator - sending too many AC volts to the regulator - which I then replaced. Installed the new stator, rode for 100 miles and the charging light never lit up. Like an idiot, I thought all my problems were solved, lol. The next ride, the lamp started to activate at 3-4K rpm, which is where we are now. (This was the title of this post, remember? Is the stator defective?' My memory is foggy on this, but I never recall the battery light OR the oil light EVER activating with key on, engine off.

The derived protocol takes more attention and involvement, but improves the outcome. Is it worth it? I can say, with certainty, mySport's performance (and reliability) is significantly better with optimal charging and battery strength. YMMV

Good news. Just got an email from batterystuff.com with a UPS tracking # and the charger is scheduled for delivery this Friday. Not to derail my own thread on my charging issue, but it sounds like going forward I should stop using the Battery Tender and use your protocol quoted here, amirite?

If I am reading this correctly, the odd charging light behavior started after the battery got cooked. And did not change with the new stator and regulator? Makes me think something also got cooked in the harness/connectors - seemingly in the circuit involving the instrument panel . . .

Exactly. Over time, that low float voltage (below Odyssey's 13.2 minimum threshold) will "shorten battery life". How much? Unknown. But undesirable. Your new charger is likely configured to address this. Rather than the "tender" approach, I have grown fond of charging the Odyssey with at least 6 amps up to 15.0 volts, then float charge at 13.56v (what my EnerSys charger will float) for maybe 24 hours, then terminate charge and let the battery gradually discharge. Repeat when the static charge reaches 12.65v. _____________________________________________________________________________________ > LESS voltage on trickle/float is NOT okay. Odyssey states that floating under 13.2 damages the battery: "Note, however, that the charge voltage should not be dropped below 13.2V as that will cause the battery grids to corrode faster, thereby shortening the battery life."

Just went out to the garage - the DMM reads 13.12v with the Battery Tender attached. Close but no cigar?

Thanks Phil...very good and educational explanation...I'll try experimenting at the next oil changes on the Norge/Griso/Scura with a viscosity spread of 30...if I can perceive any improvement in performance, "feeling" and / or mileage that would be a bonus.

My Ducati 1000ss DS, 1000cc air cooled fuel injected engine with about the same specific output of a Norge, recommended oil 10W-40. My Guzzi 1100 2 valve same as Norge engine basically ran for 10 years on M1 0W-40. Not many road engines are going to "blow up" because of the oil you use or the grade. But when you pull it down for a rebuild it can make the difference between whether or not you have a simple and cost effective re ring and new big end shells and valve guides or the total every wear part needs to be replaced and it's a part out job now expense wise. Then there is giving away performance and fuel economy aspect. Me, I just like to run what I know myself is the best oil for my specific needs and eliminate the corporate "less than ideal but cover all bases" approach no matter how obscure and ridiculous. Phil

Pretty sure @Sam P posted the answer to this on page 8 . . .

The red/green wire that had a wire nut at the end , did you connect it to anything ?

Ha, that makes a lot of sense! Phil

The bulb is in this circuit. IDK what r value is for the bulb , BUT i am happy.

With the trickle charger connected to the battery, test the voltage across the battery terminals (charge voltage). Most common "trickle chargers" will be below Odyssey's 13.2v minimum threshold.

I get 15.9Ω with this same test.

Did not start it up. I will do this tomorrow morning and report back. Need to get some better terminal connections for the jumper wire if I am going to fire up the motor.

12v/1.25 Amp

Did you start it to see if it charges with the jumper wire to the black wire of the regulator? Next, I would jumper the other side of the connector (battery voltage to the white wire and the connector rotated to connect the black --> red/black. I don't think the light will come on at all in that configuration. Looking for the charging voltage to come up while running above idle. . .

Good call on getting the approved charger. Odyssey states that float voltage below 13.2v will shorten battery life. What is your trickle charger's voltage?

I've always noticed that the RM's valve covers turn a little more orange over time. Is it the heat that affects the paint, UV rays or both? I don’t think that happens with powder coating, but the sheen might be different.

I replaced the blistered and bloated Odyssey last month with a new one, just before I started this thread. I've skimmed through your Odyssey Battery Conditioning thread (20+ pages!) and have ordered what I believe is an appropriate charger.(Battery Minder 128CEC2, which I believe replaces the older 12248 model). Will condition my battery asap, but I assume I can continue to troubleshoot my charging issues in the meantime. I am still keeping the battery on my trickle charger, which keeps the volts at 13-13.4, and I hope this isn't hurting the battery.

No battery light with a jumper wire from battery + attached, key on engine off......

How about running a jumper wire from the battery positive to the black wire into the regulator (turn the connector 90 degrees to leave the white->blue connected). KOEO: battery light on? Start up and normal charging at some rpm with no 4000 rpm light?

Haven't bread each response, on the road- but *any* wire circuit should show very near zero ohms. If the lamps are in this circuit, maybe ok. If not, a serious fault.