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You think? My first thought was "overweight Stelvio", but I expect it is just an unflattering photo.

@fastaussie I'm a little late to this game but a few ideas: 1) If you're swapping plates (I like "pork chops", but others either don't like that or prefer "stilettos"), be aware that there seem to be two different versions of the plates with different size swingarm pins (20 vs. 22mm, by my measurement). If you get new-to-you plates, either confirm the correct size for your setup or get the pins with the plates. See 2) I got a set of plates powder coated. They are beautiful, though not presently installed. I wanted to get a visual sense of depth in the finish, so the powder coater shot them with silver first, then cherry red, followed by clear. As pretty as they are, I don't like them as much as the original Tenni anodized chops, as I discovered that I like the comfortable patina of the originals. I also haven't put them back on Bubbles (the champagne Lemans), feeling that's a little like putting lipstick on a pig (Bubbles is cosmetically-challenged). So Bubbles is wearing a pair of darker silver stilettos of unknown provenience. 3) Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Personally, I like the "pop" of red chops and valve covers. If we agree that the stilettos and the valve covers are roughly equal in exposed-to-view surface area, then what you're proposing to do is essentially just moving the red spot around on the canvas; no new pop, just the same pop somewhere else. Seems like a lot of effort. But, hey: you do you, as my daughter says.

This looks, to me, like the switch "works" (at least it is closed when there is no oil pressure). Did you say the oil light came on when you grounded that wire while the key was on?

-Jumper wire to black wire to regulator: Battery light gradually came on at 3K rpm, and got brighter towards 4K. -Jumper to white wire to reg at idle and revved got no battery light.

Ohms were, at various DMM settings. (I am stupid, ignorant, uneducated about which is the appropriate or meaningful setting): 70 @ 200 7 @ 2000 0 @ 20K

If you look at the original Moto Guzzi sales literature you will see that the valve covers on RM, Rosso Corsa, and Nero Corsa are a lighter shade of red (approaching orange) then the most common red on the frame plates. When I got my Nero, they had both been painted to match the Nero Corsa script on the tail. But I replaced them with a candy-apple red powder coat set, which is close to the original metallic red but give it a bit more depth and character. And to my eye, is a nicer fit with the Nero. Also note, the angle/lighting makes the parts look different colors, but they are the same (so is the alternator cover).

That's the best looking Tenni deal I've seen in recent memory. $6k / 11k mi. and looks well kept. The clutch swap shouldn't matter. If the owner isn't sure then it likely has not been addressed. Buy it - fix it.

Sport-Norge!

Tired of frequently having to tighten the kickstand bolt, I decided to replace it. To do this, I had to remove the left-hand exhaust to make enough space to take out the Allen bolt and replace it with a hex head. It was also the perfect opportunity to remove VroomHilda's skirts, which I had been wanting to do for a while. Not only does this allow me to showcase the engine, but it also gives me easier access to the oil dipstick and several other components, all while streamlining her appearance. I love the new look and have been building up the courage to make this change for years. Remember: measure fifty-seven times and cut once!

2001 Rossa Mandello for sale. 4k miles. $6000. Long Island, NY. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1LH7VCqzmS/

The pipes look like Mistral reverse cone mufflers. I had them on a 02 Lemans..They have a kind of raspy sound. first question I’d be asking is “has the potentially exploding clutch been replaced?”

Kapiti kiwi, Have a look at what Penrite has to offer. 100% shear free and full 100% PAO and Ester in 10W-40, 15W-50 and 20W-50. You can't go wrong here. Rob

Tenni #108 for sale in Tucson, AZ. 11k miles. i'm unfamiliar with the pipes, but looks pretty clean with the exception of the terrible hack job on the rear tail light and fender. seems like an easy fix to get it back looking respectable. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/758961083627712 for those who don't have FB, let me know if you want to get in touch and i will message the guy for you...

i do believe you are right sir. i have not checked with Moto Guzzi to see if i can still order these parts, i am assuming no. but i shall check one of these days. i figured i would ask the question here first... i'll send you a PM @Scud. thanks for the offer, it is very much appreciated. and thanks again to all for the tips...

I've been on glucosamine for about 20 years and Know it's kept a lot of my joint pain settled down. Age is catching up with me so I'm starting to feel some stiffness etc in my fingers but nothing serious as of yet.

Different brands of paint matures differently. Same as w/hair on people's head.

docc , off the top of my head , these switches : oil press. neut. , etc. are n.c. (normally closed) switches. Wiring diagrams should display n.c. or n.o. next to the switch for clarity and understanding of the circuit. MG does things "their way".

last August actually. but i did just take that photo a few days ago...

Closure? In that case, congratulations, @fastaussie!

@Goofman speaks about this stickering business as if there is plausible deniability . . . Happily, the matter met the approval of the cheerful Sp'Honda-Raider . . .

@Sam P, let's try to take the oil pressure light out of the equation. You reported the oil light illuminates when the connector to the switch is grounded. Connect your Ohm meter and measure resistance from the switch post to ground, key off. The switch should be closed/grounded with no oil pressure, resistance: near 0 [oil light on will come on KOEO]. If the switch is open with no oil pressure (engine off)/ resistance = > 1 < [no oil light KOEO], then the oil pressure switch has failed and has nothing to do with the odd behavior of the "battery/charging" light . . .

I reckon the first assumtion was good. Battery cooked = regulator is not doing it's stuff, too many Volts into the battery = dead battery. Been there, done that (more than once... ). In those cases, the battery light didn't come on. I don't know for sure that the battery light never shows overcharging, but I understand it to be that the light generally only comes on when the system is undercharging. In that context, I would question the second assumption. Given that I don't expect the warning light to show overcharging, I wouldn't expect it to come on if the stator is delivering too many volts. Apart from the warning light, the regulator should take care of too many volts. That is, after all, what it is there for. The alternator delivers a voltage that increases with revs. The regulator is supposed to keep that under control and make sure that never more than about 14V gets through to the charging system. Regarding the third point, I've already written that I suspect that there are two problems. From the information that you have provided, it seems that your charging system is currently not working, despite the new regulator and stator. Therefore the charge warning light should be lit up all the time. It isn't, so it is fair to assume that there is also a problem somewhere in the circuit that the warning lamp is in. I'd still like to know what the resistance (Ohm) measurement is between the connector for the warning lamp to the regulator (where the blue wire is connected) to ground. If the regulator is behaving correctly, that should be close to zero with the key on, engine off, "infinite" with the engine running and the charging system working properly, and close to zero if the charging system is not working properly. If that is not the case, the regulator might have a problem, or there might be bad connections somewhere else. If it is the case, the warning light circuit would seem to have a problem that is confusing the issue.

"Weird bollocks ", indeed! I have put mySport on the lift, removed the seat, pulled the regulator connector apart, probing with the DVOM, trying to fathom why @Sam P's Sport won't charge and how the strange warning light behavior might inform a solution . . .

A few words on this... Basically, I'm of the same opinion as @docc here. Regarding batteries: modern Lithium-ion batteries are much better at not getting a "memory", living with lower charge states and what-have-you. As a sound engineer, I've spent the last 40-odd years dealing with things that run on batteries. Experience shows that it is better to regularly make sure they get charged properly, then let them cycle for a while as the manufacurer intended, then make sure they get a good charge, then let them cycle, and so on. The lead-acid variants that we find in our motorcycles belong to the category that this applies to. Cheap trickle chargers don't do the business. Docc has the right approach: proper charger, let it cycle, proper charger. And now, back to the topic in question: why is your charging system doing weird bollocks?