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Heads Up! Happening right now (January 9 thru 12, 2020) at San Jose Convention Center. The bike and the Porsche Speedster are on display along with two cutaway display engines.

Very happy with my Exan Exhaust Amazing build quality, eargasm sound. In the $650 range

Thank you Scud! Springs arrived today. Look very nice. Much appreciation for your efforts. Now if you would ship some summer winds to my garage I’d be able to install one. Bob

I got one with a ball on a stick that jams into the steerer tube, You just pop the cover off, grease up the 'O' rings and slide it in. This stops the GPS from interfering with the fairing and out of the rain!

$4750 A strong running V11, selling because I got a nearly new Stelvio which I use all the time. The Sport sits there and should be used, it’s really a nice driver. I keep the nearly new battery conditioned and tires inflated and take it out once in a while. All of the weak points with these models has been addressed, including the NHTSA recall, and the performance mods have been done. It’s Japanese reliable: add gas, turn the key and go. The bike is currently in Atlanta GA, with GA title and registration (formerly it was registered and titled in CA). All extras are here in GA and go with the bike. I am NOT separating the bike from the extras, or the extras from the bike. Bike is currently configured with handlebars. CA emissions sticker is still on the bike, under the seat. I can assist with shipping, but buyer is responsible. I have used Shipping Masters, including their title escrow service before, and can recommend them. Or you can fly and ride, and ship the extras using UPS or whatever. 3 weeks sitting, cold start video here: https://vimeo.com/406649103 2000BY / 2001MY Bought with 4.5k miles Transmission recall done by Pro Italia, CA, documented Currently 13.6k miles Open-loop ECU (no Lambda) Roper plate installed Front forks rebuilt with Racetech springs and gold emulators Rear shock upgraded to Hyperpro 460 (290mm, +/-5mm) Stucchi crossover Mistral slip ons with DB killers (removable) Re-map by Todd Eagan @ Guzzitech MG Cycle manual petcock Upgraded oil cooler mounts (steel) Motiv Cycle Works transmission brace New Dunlop Road Smart 3’s installed winter 2018, approx 1000 miles on them “Lucky Phil’s” shifter mod installed (still have OEM) “Scud’s re-engineered shift spring” (installed) Upgraded relays and relay base, OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 Casper Electronics breakout harness (to facilitate checking the TPS voltage) Just replaced rocker cover gaskets Just replaced the regulator with new Ducati Energia RR Just replaced the angle drive for the speedo Just replaced the battery (Odyssey 545) EXTRAS: 2x Lower sump gaskets Cortech tank bag 1 x extra “Scud’s re-engineered shift spring” OEM clip-ons (clamps, bars, bar-end weights) OEM shift linkage lever (Lucky Phil's now installed) OEM foot pegs OEM owners manual OEM tool kit 4 liters Eni i-Ride 20-50w + new Hi-Flo filter 2 keys Custom grease gun tip for greasing the upper u-joint without removing rear wheel OTHER INFO: Oil last changed at 11k Transmission fluid last changed at 11k (running Redline Heavy Shockproof) Bevel drive last changed at 11k (running Redline Heavy Shockproof) I have used Bell ethanol gas treatment since I have owned it. Shop stand pictured not included but available for purchase Photos:

The M.G. factory ran a water cooled 1100 at Daytona in 2005 in the Battle of Twins F1 race and beat all of the water cooled Ducati's. It out pulled everything on the track with it's huge torque and power. The radiator was the size of a car's. Sadly the factory did not follow through with a production version. This factory BOT F1 bike did not have the extra strut bracing from the lower engine to the swing arm pivots that we did, so the bike wobbled badly in the East high bank but still won because of the power to pull away. The Bilabio that I bought later (still have) has similar rear bracing, but the Lemans did not. At Daytona we shared the same garage bay with the water cooled MG factory bike. Our Stan Friduss bike with Josef Brenner riding won F2 both days as we did in 2004 when we set a track record in BOT F2.

I am sorry you are selling . Good luck & please hang around the forum !

Correct, all the G&B bikes, not the kit bikes like the Sport Monza, are based on the Sport 1100. AFAIK the G&B frame doesn't take the V11 with 6speed box.

As researched previously here on V11 site for issues with a 3000 RPM spit/cough thru left side intake, I decided this the best avenue to chase this steadily worsening condition. I completed removal of exhaust system, headers back to mufflers. As part of the process. I cleaned all SS with Barkeeper's Friend cleaner/polish, inspected weld joints, Loctite'd fasteners on hangers and reassembled using new "metal-icized" exhaust gaskets from MG Cycle. As you can see in picture I have the crossover in system just in front of the alternator cover. Using care during reassembly to preclude any new leaks, and leaving everything slightly loose to obtain best fit and maintain clearances with the engine and frame, I completed reassembly without any issues. After a test ride of about 45 minutes I was able to confirm that the exhaust leaks were the cause of the 3000 RPM cough/spit I had experienced over the last year or so. Thanks to the various topics posted on this forum, I am glad to report that my red stallion has returned to the road in excellent running condition. (As a side note, after much disappointing experience with speedo/tach service with Seattle Speedo, and being scammed for $587.76, I replaced my speedo with a new KPH unit from LMT and can again track speed and mileage to maintain scheduled maintenance intervals). Image available at https://ibb.co/7yKrMcp

Any model from the T3 through to the T5, all the Tonti framed LeMans and the Cali II all used the 7/33 ratio final drive. If going down the route of seeking a complete bevelbox be aware the the earlier drum rear brake 850T not only uses a different ratio, (8/35 from memory?) but also has a thinner flange on the pinion carrier and uses different pinion bearings meaning if it is going to be used with a later swingarm it will need a spacer making up to fit it. Also fitting any of these bevelboxes to the EV will require the swapping of the axle spacer in the box, (From memory.). It is nowadays getting hard to find a decent 7/33 from an earlier bike. Most of them the pinion splines are munted through age and abuse and often the pinion teeth will be pitted. Caveat emptor. The alternative is to purchase a new 7/33 gear set and build a new box.€416 from TLM but you'll need shims, bearings etc.

No those stats are always without the rider. Too many variations in riders. If you are too far outside the box these days with regard to your physique then you can pretty much forget getting a proper cutting edge sports bike to handle to its full potential. The bike and suspension and the tires are all designed these days for a rider between 5'4" and 5'8" 125 to 145 lbs. As you move outside that box your ability to be competitive diminishes exponentially. You may think that that's only for road racers but if your 6'2" and 190 lbs nothing on a a modern hyper sports bike is designed for that kind of creature. Not suspension, ergonomics or tires. Doesnt mean its unridable on the road but your on a hiding to nothing getting it set up to be really good. Modern sports bikes are designed around modern racers,ie Jockey sized people. Ciao

Update, I've been fabricating the front tank mount which has been a challenge conceptually and in a manufacturing sense mainly because I dont have Chucks skills or equipment. A mill would have been handy and if I was making dozens of them water cutting would have been an option but as it stood it was all old fashion hand work from 4mm steel plate. The objectives were to raise the tank around 40 mm and have the fwd mount be adjustable in the horizontal and the vertical, use the original tank mounts unmolested if possible and control any tendency for the new mount to rock back and forth. The mount here in the images still needs the brass spacers replaced with Titanium ones which I'll machine up from stock which I have. These are just bushes I had around that fit the purpose for mocking up. The vertical plates holding the tank rubbers are tapped to accept 6mm bolts and I'll use some ti nuts as lock nuts, just belt and braces. Originally I was going to use internally threaded Ti rods between the side plates to not only anchor the them together but also to rest on the frame top surface front and rear to prevent the mounts rocking. I have instead tapped the vertical plates the front and rear feet of which contact the top face of the frame to prevent rocking. I'll bond some SS shims onto the frame to prevent chafing. The vertical plates will be joined by some 18mm hex alloy bar necked down (so I can get a spanner on it) in the middle and tapped internally both ends to eliminate the mount rubber nuts seen here and connect the two sides together. So I have around 20 mm for and aft adjustment and 15 mm vertical. I also need to make up the spacers between the mount rubbers and the vertical pieces. All the spacers and fasteners will be Ti with the 4 horizontal side plate ones hex head bolts. I will then Blue the steel stuff. I'd rather passive cad plate them but that's always problematical these finding platers that will do small stuff. The tank outlet and return with the reg will change sides as will the fuel pump to give better clearance to the throttle bodies and the TPS. I have fitted the fuel filter and I need to make an alloy bracket to mount the regulator laying flat on top of the frame backbone in front of the fuel filter using the old fuel filter mounts. Final tank position reg clearance Fuel tap clearance Tank Mount Fuel filter in the background now sharing the the airbox bracket mount. I'll still run the airbox lid but most of the snorkels will go to make room for the fuel filter. The Alt Reg will mount flat in front of the filter using the old filter mount. Not my first choice for a location due to the engine heat but my 1198 unit is in a lot worse location right behind the oil cooler. Ciao

Docc, that says 2.9 rotations of the engine for one at the tyre. We call that a long one. 4.7 at the engine for one at the tyre means a short one. The definition works the other way round. One turn of the crankshaft can move the bike a long distance - or a short one. But the figures above are for the rear drive only. The chain goes from the crankshaft through the gearbox through the rear drive 'through' the tyre radius resp. circumference. Check the manual, it gives overall numbers.

That rates among the most ironic mixes of analog and digital ever.

Get a RAM ball that screws into the mirror mount. I think it's an M10 thread. Then, with some RAM arms and various holders, you can put whatever you want on it. I mostly use a handheld GPS, but here is an iPhone holder converted to a hand-drawn map-window.