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Purloined last won the day on May 4 2021

Purloined had the most liked content!

About Purloined

  • Birthday 11/02/1957

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  • My bikes
    2018 Husqvarna Vitpilen 401 2000 Moto Guzzi V11 Sport 1997 Ducati 900SS CR. Sold: 1980 Moto Guzzi Le Mans. 1984 Honda XL600R. 1980 Kawasaki KDX 250. 1977 BMW R100RS. 1975 BMW R75/6. 1970 Honda CB450.
  • Location
    New Haven, Connecticut

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Guzzisti (2/5)



  1. I heartily endorse what DOCC wrote. Grateful for the generosity and spirit of the folk out and about here.
  2. If I go to sleep with a V11 wiring harness under my pillow, or whatever electrical part imparts the most wisdom, will I wake up as all-knowing as you guys in the morning? Is that what you do? No. I don't think so. I will have awful creases in my cheek and sheets stained from the charcoal-black, burned wires.
  3. I'll do my best, but they usually jam the mimeograph machine. They say I should be more careful with my graham crackers and milk. I think they're just lazy and don't want to crank the thing.
  4. Wow, Kiwi_Roy, exhaustive. I replaced the regulator after navigating through the V11lemans Tutorial Committee's advice and my bike is on the road and only needed human power for propulsion once since, a few days ago, when I ran it out of fuel. It has trained me well in the art pushing it around. I'm beginning to believe it learned a few tricks in an S & M dungeon and I'm its rube. I discovered a fried black wire in the harness under the seat a while back and appealed to the collective wisdom implicit here and ran a more robust wire from the regulator to ground. The electrical system seemed good enough to earn a grade of D, graded on a curve, in a class filled with Moto Guzzi addicts; until the regulator quit, was replaced and here I am still crying into my beer to anyone who'll listen. But it runs, only if I give it a drink of gasoline, but it is running. Almost overwhelming, the well written detail in your post. I do have a battery drain, it would be nice if I could vanquish it. I will cajole a friend who's education exceeds my kindergarten diploma in electrical/electronic summer camp to read over my shoulder and parse what you're recommending. He'll sketch a few illustrations in cartoon form and I'll get it. Thank you.
  5. I'm pretty sure the regulator was last bolted onto this bike in late 1999 in Mandello del Lario. The grinding pain of an undiagnosed, crippling malady festers; so if the price of exiting an exotic, cryptic failure is the cost of a voltage regulator, I will praise that outcome. Maybe it don't fix it, but the fact that I was able to get to here so quickly was because you guys kept coming back with helpful suggestions; and quickly. In the sweltering heat of last Monday night, I was pushing my Chernobyl radiator of motorcycle through the city, back to my garage after it sputtered. I got schooled on Tuesday, Wednesday and today I didn't buy a stator I don't need and somebody in California is putting a box in a box and sending me a voltage regulator. A huge triangle from which to clink glasses and cheers from; but y'all know why. And yeah, I sipped at the trough of too many electrical calamities, tales of woe published on these pages the last few days, and also think that there's an account of someone's new regulator curing their battery drain malady. I'm sometimes in bed at night thinking about the battery blood-sucking going on in yonder garage. it's not calming. Hyar. Hope is by reputation, a balm. I will let you know.
  6. I did visually inspect all the fuses at the onset. All seem to be in order. No sign of any burning etc. Checked the 30amper for continuity and all good. I ordered a new regulator.
  7. The counter guy at the electrical repair shop here in New Haven has no idea the bullet he dodged in not having to endure my babbling incoherence. You guys cannon fodder instead. His gain, your loss.
  8. Help more? You guys have been great and patient and thorough in walking me through this. I can't thank enough. The bike has a one year old battery and since there is a battery drain with the key out of the ignition (I ran some better grounds, all the connections at the battery have been cleaned up. I thought I had it licked, but it is still present.) I keep it on a tender. I will order the regulator from ElectroSport that docc linked to. The website says they have them in stock, so I'll roll off this post and order one before the giant truck backs up to their loading dock to fulfill the giant order from Tennessee. Rumor is that there's a hoarder sitting on heaps of them down there. cheers, Marcus
  9. Hi, kids. They booted me from nursery school early, so I'm back with chapter . . . I haven't kept track, but it's nearing War and Peace level page count. I did as was suggested and checked output with yellow alternator wires isolated from the wiring harness of the bike. 18v AC at idle 45v AC at 3,000rpm 65-ish at higher rpm, prlly about 5,000, I hate spinning a motor at rest high, don't know why. This seems to comport with what is specced for it and indicates the alternator is functional? Would this point to the regulator?
  10. My apologies for wasting the people's time with my confused understandings. As has been suggested, my friend re-tested the output this morning. (he has a decent meter) DC measured at the battery, with the engine running 12.4v regardless of RPM. AC measured from the yellow wires off the alternator, upstream from regulator: 16.3v AC at idle drops to 13.2v AC at 3,000 rpm. The measurements at the battery might suggest a problem with the rectifier, is that correct? The output from the alternator should not drop as rpms increase, also correct? I am going to trek to the electrical shop, but I wondered what you guys might construe from this.
  11. I saw that on the link you provided. It's oddly beautiful, I'd feel bad burying this object inside the little alternator house. I'll print that out and show it to the local guy, sure he's seen a lot of hardware in his day, I'm thinking this one will melt his jaded heart.
  12. Yes, Weegie, def volts were measured, not amps as I earlier stated. As far as I can tell, the yellow connections on the stator are intact, certainly not obviously detached. I spoke with a local shop that rebuilds alternators and took some pix of the unit to show to him, I'm a little confused as to what is possible as regards rebuilding, I think he said he would only need the stator. This will doubtless be contradicted tomorrow and I will be back here tomorrow bellyaching like I do. I looked at the ElectroSport stator that docc linked; which is out of stock since the last one they had is now likely residing in Tennessee.
  13. Yeah, Weegie, I measured the alternator output on the two yellow wires coming off the alternator heading to the regulator. I pried the connection apart just enough to get the probes in. And I spun it at 3,000 rpm. I'm sketchy on the electrical nomenclature, but pretty sure we were measuring amps, as that was what we measured at the battery; engine off/engine idle/@ 3,000 rpm. My friend measured it for me, I'll double check with him on what we measured. Hopefully a severed wire as DOCC suggested might be the cause.
  14. Thank you. I'll go out and scrutinize it. The reading on the meter did change slightly when the I increased idle. I don't know if that was an anomalous fluctuation. Since I'm an obsessive doom-scroller, my manual calls for removal of the alternator after removing the engine. It sure looks like it would clear; the problem is holding the crankshaft from spinning when loosening, 'special tool 12 9118 01'. Is it possible to do this with the engine in the frame?
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