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Purloined

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Purloined last won the day on July 23 2019

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About Purloined

  • Rank
    Guzzisti
  • Birthday 11/02/1957

Previous Fields

  • My bikes
    2018 Husqvarna Vitpilen 401 2000 Moto Guzzi V11 Sport. Sold: 1980 Moto Guzzi Le Mans. 1984 Honda XL600R. 1980 Kawasaki KDX 250. 1977 BMW R100RS. 1975 BMW R75/6. 1970 Honda CB450.
  • Location
    New Haven, Connecticut

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  1. I can't tell if the exhaust is stainless or aluminum. The veneer of the 'carbon fiber' was a thin, plastic, adhesive. It peeled off pretty easily. There were two holes under the cf skin that I assume were for a riveted logo of some sort. I threaded them and plugged them with stainless steel button head fasteners. I like them much better with the cf stripped off. It wasn't aging well.
  2. Makes sense, docc. They are 'straight through' pipes. Like telescopes without lenses. I can see from one end to the other (sans magnification). They're throaty, but not obnoxious. My brother in California says that the type of pipe is not legal in his state. My 2000 V11 had these pipes on it when I bought it. I didn't know if they were stock or aftermarket. From what you're describing, they're obviously add-ons. They sound better than the exhaust I bought from 4Corsa. And half the weight as well. The cf is def a veneer. I peeled it off the old pipes; tapped and plugged the two holes that must have been meant for attaching a logo with ss screws. More better.
  3. Hi, 4Corsa. I bought your old exhaust. I weighed them. They were 10.2 pounds each. I don't know what the exhaust on my 2000 'Greenie' is called, cylindrical cans wrapped in 'carbon fiber' adhesive, but they are 5.2 pounds each.
  4. Yeah, yeah. Tons of wisdom about tectonics. Of course I got in line and learned a lot. And I of course bookmarked in order to later educate myself when ignored problems have their inevitable tantrum. Your Flickr page? Great photos, great photo album. A lesson in anatomy. the skeletal system, (the digestive tract), and a lens for once welcomed beneath a skirt. A good gallery of images; a lot of work to document and post and a hearty hurrah that you did.
  5. A well written obituary printed in The New York Times; It describes a body pummeled in numerous crashes over the course of his career and the spirit and humility and sense of humor he embodied. The concluding paragraphs: Moss, the ultimate pro, once observed that there are no professionals at dying — although he had practiced. He was sure he was “a goner” after his steering column snapped at over 160 m.p.h. in a race in Monza, Italy, in 1958. As he staggered away from the wreckage, he thought, “Well, if this is hell, it’s not very hot, or if it’s heaven, why is it so dusty?” https://www.nytimes.com/2020/04/12/obituaries/stirling-moss-dead.html
  6. Oy. Thanks for all the ink spilled here on my behalf. I swapped relays and the bike started without protest. And the weather here in New Haven is sufficiently obliging at the beginning of February (thank you ExxonMobil) that I managed to take it for a ride around town dressed in a long sleeve tee shirt. This forum has helped shepherd me through numerous problems and I'm grateful for the time and interest on everyone's part.
  7. I had previously determined that the plugs were firing. I adjusted the valves a few hundred miles before this problem had begun. The fuel pump comes on as it should when I switch on the ignition. To be clear, the pic is the sensor in question? Fotoguzzi says it is a camshaft sensor, not a crank (assume 'crank' refers to crankshaft) sensor, which would make sense given its location. Testing for signal would involve removing it from the engine and accessing electrical signal from where it fastens to the block? Or the signal would be tested upstream? In the case of this sensor: 'air gap'? Does it need adjustment when installed as opposed to being fastened in its socket? I may have to defer to someone more versed in this diagnosis. It is a 550 pound dead weight at this point and will be difficult to transport the hour and a half to Hamlin's in Bethel. It would be cool if I could blunder onto the source of the problem without resorting to the age-old trick of tossing a bowl of pesto&pasta into the back of the van for a trip to the doctor's office and hoping if falls for it Thanks all. .
  8. A cohort of brains cells on a Saturday night are on holiday, they send me greetings from the festive, secret location where they're on hiatus; it's a disappointing abrogation of responsibility. And they will be scolded on their return. But meanwhile, I'm relegated to fractional cognitive skills in their absence. Are there two components which might be culprits? I see a device on the left side of the engine block, a sending unit scrutinizing the position of the crankshaft from what I've read. I assume in dialog with the spark and injection services. The symptoms of a failed unit which are described seem consistent with my bike's malady. But a bad relay also potentially malfunctioning? Or did I misunderstand? This place is a damned encyclopedia; with way better humor. Pretty good for a Saturday night's entertainment. The brain cells will be pouting about all they missed when they return. As far as I'm concerned, they can be pouty from inside the doghouse where they'll be quarantined until they apologize for their jail break. There are rules in this funhouse.
  9. My 2000 V11 stopped running at the beginning of the winter and I wondered if anyone might offer an opinion. There have been times when it would just quit at idle, when fully warmed up and I was riding it. Don't know if this is related to the current problem or not. It became erratic at some point, stuttering on throttle, then it would be fine. Quickly got worse to the point where it was difficult to restart. Step three: it would idle, but if I gave it any throttle it would start to stumble, and this behavior was abrupt, i.e. it was not as though I could gently induce the rpms higher, it would just cut out when I opened the throttle. Step four: would not start at all. The plugs are sparking (plugs and wires and air filter are new.) I don't smell fuel in the exhaust at all. I was describing this to an auto mechanic friend who's not familiar with the the bike, but to him the symptoms were similar to a bad ignition module in automobiles. I know this is a pretty sketchy description, but the on/off nature sounds to me like a failure of a gizmo about which I know nothing. And please forgive me for the pain anyone experiences from eye-rolling after reading this. Any advice is appreciated
  10. I installed several new grounds, including one from the rectifier where I abandoned the old ground that was fastened to it and cleaned up stuff as best I could and reassembled everything. The bike seems to start more easily and run much better and more smoothly. I put a meter on the battery and all seems normal, so no drain. Hopefully a new normal of normal Moto Guzzi electrical bliss rules from now on. Just kidding, but thanks to all who had the patience to sift through my many onerous descriptions without throwing up your hands. The advice was invaluable.
  11. I've been sifting through the accumulated details that are cited in these posts in order to try to understand the arcane circulatory system (if in fact a 'system'? Maybe 'battle' is a better descriptor.) that sparks and rumbles in the wires of these bikes. Akin to certain subjects in school where I was terrified of being called on to mainline my thorough ignorance into the ears of my classmates. Never mind the teacher. I do know that electricity hurts when your cross two poles. I learned that at age seven when I joined the two sides of an outlet in our ancient house. I'll bet the scorch mark is still there. Beyond that, I give my deficiencies a wide berth as I'm sure no good will come from it. But I've gleaned a lot from the anecdotes everyone here has shared about their experiences with similar problems and I'm grateful for the time devoted; advice offered. I have a couple of patient, electrically inclined friends who've offered to be chaperones in order to ward off the mushroom cloud I know I can generate in the dark recesses of a Moto Guzzi's electrical labyrinth. And I think I can rectify, or a least examine, a lot of the innate problems that have been described in bits and pieces with all your help. And after all this fatuous hubris-building, I think I should get me a Tesla, a few tweaks and I know it will be a screaming fast monster. What is the secret code? Plus and minus are cantankerous bedfellows. Off I go. Thanks again, all, Marcus
  12. Marty NZ, are you thinking that it is possible for the voltage regulator itself to be draining the battery while the key is out of the ignition? I don't believe there is an innate problem with the charging system of the motorcycle. All things being said, it runs/charges fine. But if left unridden, the battery has been draining. I have been reading on this forum posts about the importance of a proper wire to ground for the regulator. The bad wire that came out of the ECU harness under the seat is still in the harness going to ??. Some have suggested it might be from the regulator to ECU fastening bolt/ground. I should make sure the regualtor has a good and proper ground. And maybe add one. Still, battery drain while the bike is off is the problem.
  13. Y'all are in luck, back to me and the subject of my Moto. Ahem. . . I cleaned up the wires from the harness that plugs into the ECU, cleaned all the terminals on both battery poles including the ground connection on the back of the transmission case. I abandoned the crisp wire that came from the ECU harness and attached a new ground wire from the mounting bolt on the ECU to a second fastener on the back of the transmission. There are two other ground wires re-attached to the ECU bolt coming from the ECU harness as before. Bike starts up, runs fine, but it has a battery drain that started when I had the battery replaced a few months ago. I took the battery out and had it tested and the shop said it was okay. It had been sitting for two days at this point, I don't remember how long it took to run flat before, I think it may have taken longer than two days. Before starting it I disconnected the negative leads and, key out, put a meter between the negative terminal and the leads and there was a draw of 22.XX ma on the meter. When I removed the 30 amp fuse the draw dropped substantially. This seems to indicate there is a draw on that circuit? Does anyone have any advice about a possible cause? The 'abandoned' crisp wire that came out of the ECU harness goes back to wherever it originated, some here have suggested it goes to the voltage regulator, I did not trace it. This battery was not draining when on the old battery. Manufacture date of my bike is January 2000. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  14. Yeah, the drawing was elucidating, far better than what I have. But I was referring to your lucid explanation.
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