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docc

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Posts posted by docc

  1. 9 hours ago, motoguzzikc said:

    I'll have a look this weekend!

    What gauge wire should I use when running the ground wire off the regulator?

    I sourced braided ground strap locally and sleeved it in heat shrink. Technically, I think it is 10 gauge.

    th?id=OIP.kDLF2_3ADJ0Mon3tV44BAgAAAA%26p

    • Like 2
  2. I looked back through the entire thread and have to suggest adding a dedicated ground/earth from the regulator case to the timing chest. Also, to clean/tighten/seal the main ground to the back of the gearbox on the right (behind the seat latch actuator).

    It would be telling if the charging voltage changes after addressing the grounds.

    • Like 2
  3. The low idle voltage could be down to a low idle. These tachs can read 300-500 rpm high. No big deal, perhaps, at cruising speeds, but setting your idle at 1,000 rpm with the tach when that is really 500-700 rpm is not good.

    Use Guzzidiag to confirm the actual idle and the "Decent Tune-up" for the idle procedure.

    Good to keep an eye on the charging voltage. The Odyssey is not to exceed 15.0 volts.

    • Like 1
  4. 1 hour ago, audiomick said:

    I've already seen that. Was it posted here, or on the german forum? I can't remember. :huh2:

     

    It is certainly interesting. :)

    Yes, posted here before. :mg:

    What is new is how much has been added to @OzMatt's website. The man has put forth a fabulous effort to archive rare history and images. With plans for further additions, stay tuned!

    https://mgprotos.com/matt-compton

     

    • Like 1
  5. 4 minutes ago, dirtyrider00 said:

    Still available?

    I'm sorry, I have not asked Mikko's surviving family about any of his property. I think it is still a bit soon after his sudden passing in January . . .

    • Like 3
  6. 3 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

    Nope docc tool not required and re-useable. You can release them with a very small bladed straight screw driver and to secure them you can use a pair of side cutters or pincher pliers even multi grips if you have plenty of room. Thats how I did them for years until one day I was about to throw away an old pair of combo pliers and thought I wonder if I can re purpose these into a Cobra clip tool. Five minutes on the grinder and done.

     

    Phil  

    "Pro Tip!" :luigi:

  7. 19 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

    These are what you use on FI hoses. Norma cobra clips. Compact, easy to install, easy to remove, re useable, stainless steel, bullet proof sealing, colour banded for size identification. They sell a special tool to install them but it's not required in reality although I made up one using an old worn out pair of combination pliers for convenience sake. Purple banded size is what you need on 5/16 FI hose. I've been using them for many years and they work perfectly and look compact, professional and tidy. Worm drive clamps are horrible shit looking things. Bulky and just awful to look at.

    https://www.iq-parts-shop.com/en/norma-cobra-hose-clamp.html

    Phil 

    I always hated these because I did not have the right tool for them. Plus, I did not think they are reusable (?)

    norma-norma-cobra-hose-clamp-in-stainles

  8. 4 hours ago, motoguzzikc said:

    Oh man, egg on my face. After looking at my order confirmation again, I accidentally order the 24v relays🤦

    Egg on my face, too. Another good catch, @Speedfrog!

    The CIT linked in the Best Relay thread answer are the correct 12V CIT. The Pickers Components noted by Speedfrog have slightly better current ratings, especially for the early V11 Sport's #1 Relay/NC contact position:

     

    • Like 1
  9. 2 hours ago, motoguzzikc said:

    @p6x the veglia failed years ago and dad replaced with with an Equus. This Amazon link appears to be the same tach. Equus 8068 3-3/8" Tachometer (DIS), White with Aluminum Bezel https://a.co/d/6TEqrOT

    @docc my new relays from have arrived by digikey but it appears they sent the wrong ones. The last oder I received said 11v CIT RELAY at the bottom where as these say 07v and they are blowing my 10a ignition switch fuse every time I turn the bike on. Looks like I'm going to ha w to let the problem set for a few days while I wait for new relays again. 

    Edit: As noted by @Speedfrog, you had the wrong/24V product listed in your post:

    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cit-relay-and-switch/A11CSQ24VDC1-2D/12502798?s=N4IgTCBcDaIIIEYEGEDKBFMAWAagEWQQDow8ACEAXQF8g

    [Welldone, @Speedfrog!]

    • Like 1
    • Confused 1
  10. 12 minutes ago, motoguzzikc said:

    Thanks GuzziMoto. From what I can tell all my lights/signals/horn work as they should. FedEx is telling my new relays will be here today, and I do go eah and order 10 more of the relays Docc called out above. I plan on using contact cleaner on the FL relays base but other than feeling a slight amount of resistance when replacing the relay, how do I go about tightening how they sit in the base? I'm sorry if this seems like a rudimentary question, I swear I've been ridding Guzzis for 2 decades, it's just that my old Cali Stone has been dead nuts reliable without any of these types of issues. 

    Inspect the connectors in the relay bases for looseness. If they need tightening, @Kiwi_Roy gave us a procedure:

     

    • Like 1
  11. Actually, it is the brake light affected (with the headlight, horn, tach, and charging) by this relay issue. The tail light is on the non-relay circuit with the running/"city" light and the instrument illumination.

    • Like 1
  12. On 4/16/2024 at 6:15 AM, innesa said:

    Thank you for your reply. Any thoughts re the lead issue?

    Cheers

    I think that is "mis-leading." <_<

    When you work through the Decent Tune-up, I suspect you will find the valves off, perhaps one quite tight.

    If Shrödinger's cat set your CO at -90, then I wonder where he thought he set your TPS . . . :nerd:

    • Haha 1
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