docc
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Posts posted by docc
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On 4/12/2024 at 10:36 AM, PJPR01 said:
I’ll take two!
I added you to the list, but it is not hard: just fill in your name, quantity, and location on the list in the Original Post, and refresh the page. No need to even "Sign In." P6x has made this so easy!
@FreyZI's "1+" quantity seems vague . . .
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A V11Lemans.com theme song?
"I get by with a little help from my friends " . . .
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Hoping to learn more about the origins of the Moto Guzzi SpineFrame, this publication does not disappoint!
All this time, I thought the original Spine Frame was a "Daytona" 8V Hi-cam. Not so! The first SpineFrame Guzzi, the V11 Sport prototype so-to-speak, was this 1987 2V. Also, the first SpineFrame: "Made in America!"
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On 3/20/2024 at 9:11 PM, Daveguzzi1 said:
I have a 2003 v11 Lemans. I have an off idle cough/backfire through the intake that is consistent to 3000 rpms. It is worse when the bike is fully warmed up. When rolling on the throttle and going thru the gears it doesn't occur but holding the throttle steady at 3500 or below it hiccups and coughs. New plugs properly set valves clean air filter. Plugs look good when pulled after running. The exhaust crossover has the special seals so it doesn't leak and headers are tight and not leaking. 23k on odo. She's done this for a while but getting worse. We have a dealer in our town but I have a factory service manual and would prefer to fix myself. Thoughts????? DaveG
No mention of CO setting, TPS setting, or throttle body balance. Highly recommended baseline procedure:
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As of august, 2004, @Paul Minnaert had reported four of these failures. Bad production run? Unknowable. Yet it seems that if the problem affected all of the V11 aluminum flywheels, we would have seen about two failures every year for the last twenty years.
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5 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:
Perhaps, but it also highlights the danger of a disc spinning as fast as the flywheel is spinning. It isn't just a question of how much damage it can do to your Guzzi if your aluminum flywheel lets go, it can do damage to you. There is a reason why drag racers have to use SFI rated bell housings.
Anyway, feel free to delete the post.
No way would I delete your posts.
Reminds me of why Don Garlits built the rear engine dragster.
edit:
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Seems like that sort of thing deserves a topic of its own off in Banter . . .
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As hard as I try to learn the playing, sometimes it's more about the dancing . . .
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27 minutes ago, Guzzi 1947 said:
In discusssion on the bike.
Many thanks for the lead.
At some point, @Guzzi 1947, a dedicated thread with this Tenni joining your alluring stable (with pics!) would be most welcome . . .
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Watching for new member @motoguzzikc to post his concern, probably in Technical Topics, so we can dive into helping him and getting his V11 Sport alive and well . . .
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There have long been concerns, and reports, of cracking or failures of the aluminum flywheel mated to the single plate clutch on the 2002 Scura, 2002 Tenni, and (perhaps) the 2001 Rosso Mandello.
To clarify: it is not a clutch failure, but cracking of the flywheel around its mounting to the crankshaft potentially progressing to separation and extensive damage. Many have preemptively converted their "single plate clutch"/ aluminum flywheel to the V11 double plate/steel flywheel or installed an aftermarket RAM clutch/flywheel unit. Those solutions are detailed elsewhere and may be linked here.
This topic is meant to chronicle reports of actual failures.
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Discussion about flywheel failure concerns archived in this pinned topic:
https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/31018-aluminum-flywheel-failure/
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For full disclosure, this is what I was after with the increased air gap: my (limited) understanding is that less air compresses less and tends to increase compression at the end of the stroke effectively shortening the travel (a sort of "harshness" toward the depth of the fork travel). Increasing the air gap can contribute to a more linear damping through the travel range. This is likely way oversimplified, but gives the idea.
I would add that it is the last parameter to address after correct springs and preload ("sags"/ride heights), oil selection, and damping settings.
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10 hours ago, Gmc28 said:
Hi Docc-
Goldie has Bosch, and early on i confirmed #5 was “clicking”, and then swapped 4 & 5 anyway just to see if anything would change.
The nefarious #1 and 2….. not really. Checked #2, the 30a, and the fuse and receptacle looks good/clean and unaltered in any obvious way by heat. I suppose i need to pull the bus and check underneath?
Easy to check by carefully prying the fuse block up from the isolator blocks (no need to fiddle with the fasteners) and be certain those four hidden spade connectors are clean and tight (Caig DeOxit® is our friend!). They supply power from the Ignition Switch to the fuses for the fuel/ignition and ECU relays.
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Remind me what relays you have installed? True, High Current varieties (especially in Position#5)?
You have inspected and secured the nefarious, hidden spade connectors beneath the fuse block to fuse #1 and #2?
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3 minutes ago, audiomick said:
Perhaps more relevant from that source, "Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain !"
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I derived this air gap for my riding preferences, combined with all of the other details of my suspension set-up.
The fluid volume is derived from the air gap, not vice-versa. But only if you want to use the air gap as an additional tuning parameter. Many would say it is "splitting hairs" for the street.
Yet, "the street" is all I gots.
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Isn't there a replacement available, new, from Mg Cylce?
edit:
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=135&products_id=141
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4 hours ago, LaGrasta said:
For 40mm Marzocchi forks, with Andreani cartridges, X is 350mm (110mm airgap). Stock cartridges is 400mm.
@docc For 100mm air gap, you mentioned 330mm, for Traxxion cartridges, correct?
Factory cartridges.
(I'm using Taxxion springs, but that does not affect the air gap.)
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No pressure on The Wizard !
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2 hours ago, Gmc28 said:
Thanks Docc. I probably used too many words on my post, confusing the issue….
I have been using a manual 10a charger for the old battery, doing the discharge and charge cycles, and so far with some apparent success, but question is about the other charger: Whether anyone has heard of the BatteryMinder branded 8A charger, one of the ones approved by Odyssey, ever doing what its doing to me, where it kicks off from the AGM & 8A mode after about 10 mins, when it then shows “weak battery”, and reverts on its own to Flooded & 2A mode.
Yes, my EnerSys OptiMate will change to the lower amperage as well. Probably fine for a "healthy" PC545, but I prefer the manual method, with voltage monitoring, for rescues.
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Rather than relying on the chargers' (unknown) algorithms, try using a manual setting and monitor with a volt meter. Terminate the charge at 15.0 volts, discharge and repeat until stable (battery stays above 12.65v for days to weeks and cranks reliably when engaged).
Seepage between cylinder head and head; both sides. Common? what gasket do you recommend?
in Technical Topics
Posted
As gstallons said, #16 in the diagram, O RING (#90706203):