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docc

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Posts posted by docc

  1. 3 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

    I'm certain I'm going to raise someone's blood pressure with this one.

     

    angledrive.jpg

    Don't let the metal blanking plate/ disc jump out of your angle drives. Perhaps made more likely by adding viscous lubricant to the housing . . .

    IMG_0324.JPG

     

    • Like 1
  2. I cannot find an image of the earlier bolt, but pretty sure the only change was the finish from the earlier, black phosphate-looking bolts to the later, silver "Geomet corrosion resistant finish " . . .

    Certainly, this is group of fasteners that would be unfortunate not to be torqued correctly a.k.a. "tight " . . .

    • Like 2
  3. The only torque spec in the Workshop Manual for 10mm is 1.5 thread pitch in the English and Dutch translations, but 1.25 in the German translation. Guess we'll go with the two-out-of-three consensus. :rolleyes:

    The part number does change between the early Sports (GU98623530) and the LeMans (GU98683530 )

    Here is a listing for the later number:

    https://www.hargloperformance.com/genuine-moto-guzzi-hex-socket-cap-screw-10x30mm-fine-thread-geomet-gu98683530-10313-p.asp

    I don't see a size change across the V11 range, @phalford. For sure your caliper mount bolts measure 8mm?

     

  4. 6 minutes ago, Scud said:

    I believe torque specs are based on thread size to avoid confusion with various bolt head types (eg. hex-head vs socket cap). So you would need a thread gauge tool, not a caliper.

    True. Torque spec based on both fastener diameter and thread pitch, yes?

    I don't think I have a loose caliper bolt lying around to measure. Anyone?

  5. Perhaps it could be valuable to specify that the reference voltage comes from Relay #2. Sure, that supplies the headlight but also the brake light, horns, tachometer, power to the "warning lights" (including the battery light), as well as the reference voltage to the regulator.

     

    • Like 1
  6. 7 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

    I remember that BMW's use the charging indicator light as part of the charging regulation system. If the charge light bulb burns out then you get nothing out of the alternator. Left me stranded on the side of the road in the Isle of Mann in 1984. Not sure if it's applicable to the V11 system though.

    Phil

    I don't think so (for our V11).

    Yet, issues with this connector (indicator light and reference voltage) or its course of wiring/ connections might involve both the light behavior and the actual charging fault . . .

    IMG_6124.jpg

    I had to seal mine at some point . . .

    IMG_6125.jpg

    • Like 2
  7. 56 minutes ago, Sam P said:

    AC volts coming from the alternator just now are 24v at idle and 60v revved at 3K rpm. So, it would appear that the regulator is getting power from the alternator, perhaps too much power (see my OP.) 

    Not sure if the the 12.3v DC at the battery with the engine running is what it is supposed to be. Waiting to hear from @docc on this from a few posts ago.

    Maybe there is an issue with the butt connectors from the yellow stator wires (output) to the yellow (input) regulator wires? Not sure how to troubleshoot that....

    Ah, yes, that system is not charging at the battery at all. It should be 13.8-14.2vDC at some rpm, idle somewhat lower, but not that low. 
     

    Those yellow alternator connectors do benefit from a clean, tighten, and seal. Some folks eliminate the connectors and hard wire there to eliminate that potential trouble spot.

     

    Still a mystery why there is no battery light KOEO. I am still suspecting an open connection somewhere: across the 30 fuse or an errant ring terminal that got left off either the positive or negative battery terminal.

     

    Also, cannot rule out a faulty new part (R/R). There's a name for that . . .

    • Like 3
  8. 48 minutes ago, footgoose said:

     

    Proper hydration cures a lot of ailments, as does beer.

     

     

      :thumbsup:    :bier:

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1
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  9. Back to the basics:

    What is the DC voltage, across the battery terminals:

    1) Key off , after a few hours

    2) Key on, engine off (KOEO)

    3) Engine running, at "idle" (idle rpm can vary widely between our selections: 600 rpm to 1500 rpm)

    4) at "some rpm" - in this case: what happens to charging voltage as the rpm rises from, say, 2500 to 4000 . . .

  10. Let's specify the alternator output voltage is AC. Not sure it makes any difference to the discussion, but the voltmeter must be set AC for the alternator output and DC for the Regulator/Rectifier output.

    Also, isn't the V11 alternator some kind of induction device (no brushes) with the crank spinning coils of wire within a permanent magnet? :huh2:

    • Like 2
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