thelonewonderer Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Hey everyone, I've recenlty rebuilt the engine of my 2003 V11 Sport and reinstalled it back in the frame. It wouldn't start, and I realized that the fuel pump wasn't priming. I replaced the pump, and the new one primes just fine. I've also replaced the battery. The starter motor is working, as the engine is turning over. The bike has spark and seems to be getting fuel. The valves are also in spec. I've gotten it to sputter a little, but not start, and now it's not even sputtering anymore. Before I rebuilt the engine, the bike would start and run fine; I just had to get the crankshaft and conrods machined and replace the conrod bearings. I also had the timing and the engine checked out by a reputable Guzzi shop in my area, and it was greenlit to be put back in the frame. Anyone have ideas on what I can check and troubleshoot to get it running again? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabernet Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 As it spluttered anf now doesn't has the fuel run out. Is the manual tank isolation valve open? Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 "seems to be getting fuel" that's where I'd start. squirt something into the intake and see what happens. the smallest amount of starting fluid should fire it. If not then timing would be my next look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 How's your timing sensor look? Nice and square to the case? Otherwise might be time to research the "Go-Winkie" light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelonewonderer Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 How's your timing sensor look? Nice and square to the case? Otherwise might be time to research the "Go-Winkie" light. The timing sensor is square to the case. I used the same spacers that were on it before, as I didn't replace any of the timing components. What is the "Go-Winkie" light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelonewonderer Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 As it spluttered anf now doesn't has the fuel run out. Is the manual tank isolation valve open? Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk Yes, the valve is open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Valve timing? Fresh fuel? New plugs? Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelonewonderer Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 "seems to be getting fuel" that's where I'd start. squirt something into the intake and see what happens. the smallest amount of starting fluid should fire it. If not then timing would be my next look I'll try a little starting fluid to see what happens. The timing should be alright, as it was checked by a professional Guzzi mech...at least I'm hoping that it is. I'd hate to have to remove the engine again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 "seems to be getting fuel" that's where I'd start. squirt something into the intake and see what happens. the smallest amount of starting fluid should fire it. If not then timing would be my next look I'll try a little starting fluid to see what happens. The timing should be alright, as it was checked by a professional Guzzi mech...at least I'm hoping that it is. I'd hate to have to remove the engine again. Forget the starting fluid, if you need to use that stuff at this point you really do have an issue. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coreytrevor Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Starting fluid or carb spray in the intake is a good way to diagnose whether fuel supply is the issue. If it starts for a second and dies you know you are not getting fuel. Probably the easiest way to test that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 I personally don't like starting fluid. Pull a plug. Is it wet? Yes/No. Pretty easy. Sounds to me that it's not getting fuel for whatever reason. How about the injection relay? It's the last one in the stack. (farthest aft) Replace it with a known good relay. Just switch it with another except the one next to it. That's the ECU relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 It's possible to swap the low voltage leads to the coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelonewonderer Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 I personally don't like starting fluid. Pull a plug. Is it wet? Yes/No. Pretty easy. Sounds to me that it's not getting fuel for whatever reason. How about the injection relay? It's the last one in the stack. (farthest aft) Replace it with a known good relay. Just switch it with another except the one next to it. That's the ECU relay. Both plugs are slightly wet, but it turns out that I'm only getting spark in cylinder 1. Not even a faint spark for the plug in cylinder 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 With a quality voltmeter, check the battery voltage (I know it's new, but check). Check that there is battery voltage to both Fuse#1 and Fuse#2 (outboard terminal). As Chuck says, swap the center relay into the 5th (last position. Always use a High Current relay in Position #5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelonewonderer Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 With a quality voltmeter, check the battery voltage (I know it's new, but check). Check that there is battery voltage to both Fuse#1 and Fuse#2 (outboard terminal). As Chuck says, swap the center relay into the 5th (last position. Always use a High Current relay in Position #5. I swapped the relays but nothing changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now