GuzziMoto Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 The wife's V11 tank has a small amount of bubbling in the paint, mainly under the harness for her tank bag. It is like little pimples in the paint. The tank is now coated, and so far seems to be stable. The pimples are there from before the tank was coated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtucker Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 4 hours ago, GuzziMoto said: The wife's V11 tank has a small amount of bubbling in the paint, mainly under the harness for her tank bag. It is like little pimples in the paint. The tank is now coated, and so far seems to be stable. The pimples are there from before the tank was coated. Which coating did you use? __Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 30 minutes ago, jtucker said: Which coating did you use? __Jason Caswell https://caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html It now comes in colors. I don''t recall that being an option back then. I used clear. But Dragons Blood sounds cool. I left the tank empty for a few months, it shrank back to about original size, and I coated the inside with the Caswell gas tank coating. No issues since. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan M Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 Caswell's Dragon Blood was their latest product at the time, maybe still is. The bright red color helps to see coverage when you apply it. I had no bubbles on either tank. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 Eureka ! After removing the tank on the black frame to repair the low fuel level sensor leak . I had a monster of a time getting it back on . NEVER again . The next time I am going to get two new pucks (just in case something goes wrong) and mill the diameter (on the old ones) down 1/4" at a time until the tank slips on easily . This should fix everything . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunbeamtim Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 Took a small crescent out of each of mine with a Stanley knife til tank fitted snugly. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 Sounds good . Was the rubber soft ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
po18guy Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 Spring-loaded pucks would be nice, but I'm dreaming. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 3 hours ago, gstallons said: Eureka ! After removing the tank on the black frame to repair the low fuel level sensor leak . I had a monster of a time getting it back on . NEVER again . The next time I am going to get two new pucks (just in case something goes wrong) and mill the diameter (on the old ones) down 1/4" at a time until the tank slips on easily . This should fix everything . Now you know why when I designed my new front tank mount for the V11/V10 project I made the mount adjustable up/dn and fwd/back. You cant remove any material off the dia or the tank will be loose up and down. Only off the rear of the puck. Ciao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 On a LongFrame/short tank (2002/ and carry-over 2003) before the internal pump/filter long tank, this looks like a great solution: shift the tank further forward on the frame mounts (forward "pucks"). Lots of room because the frame is extended and the tank is still the short one. On my ShortFrame with the short tank (external pump/filter), that would likely cause fork/tank interference at full lock. I have a little contact already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 10 minutes ago, docc said: On a LongFrame/short tank (2002/ and carry-over 2003) before the internal pump/filter long tank, this looks like a great solution: shift the tank further forward on the frame mounts (forward "pucks"). Lots of room because the frame is extended and the tank is still the short one. On my ShortFrame with the short tank (external pump/filter), that would likely cause fork/tank interference at full lock. I have a little contact already. The only genuine solution docc is an alloy tank. You could of course have a spare tank and periodically rotate them on the bike so the one not in use is dedicated to drying out. Then swap them around and dry out the other, or coat the tank. Ciao 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 8 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: The only genuine solution docc is an alloy tank. You could of course have a spare tank and periodically rotate them on the bike so the one not in use is dedicated to drying out. Then swap them around and dry out the other, or coat the tank. Ciao I remove my tank about every three years (about the same interval as my swingarm removal). I only hope my tank does not, one day, split at the rear mount as I am "coaxing it" back on. While moving the tank forward does not look like a good option for the ShortFrame/ShortTank (1999-2001), I also am reluctant to lift the front of the tank. Sure, that might relieve the stress to the rear mounting bolt, but I don't think I would like the look . . . Here again, though, those with LongFrames and short tanks (2002 and early '03 "carry-overs with chin-pad tanks), grooming the forward mounting pucks to shift the tank forward is brilliant! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KINDOY2 Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said: The only genuine solution docc is an alloy tank. You could of course have a spare tank and periodically rotate them on the bike so the one not in use is dedicated to drying out. Then swap them around and dry out the other, or coat the tank. Ciao I think 2 tanks is the most economic. for example, the Ducati's suffer the same problem..I spent $3,600 to have an aluminum tank made in Japan for my Ducati by" Beaters" Arguably the best quality there is ,A small family owned Company for over 100 years that formally made Samurai armour, The tank is awesome, a work of Art..., but a second stock tank would have been much cheaper..it depends if you want to be "one and done", or swap every winter, I plan on keeping the bike for the duration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 You guys talk like Nylon is such a bad thing! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 3 hours ago, KINDOY2 said: I think 2 tanks is the most economic. for example, the Ducati's suffer the same problem..I spent $3,600 to have an aluminum tank made in Japan for my Ducati by" Beaters" Arguably the best quality there is ,A small family owned Company for over 100 years that formally made Samurai armour, The tank is awesome, a work of Art..., but a second stock tank would have been much cheaper..it depends if you want to be "one and done", or swap every winter, I plan on keeping the bike for the duration. What Ducati? I bought a factory alloy tank for my 1198. Ciao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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