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PC545 Odyssey...


VtwinStorm
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So, I rode to work tonight,  and it's going to dip into 36F.

I charged the battery very quickly before I set off a couple of hours ago.

At what temperature does this Odyssey battery make the V11 harder to start?

I think the CCA is 170...sweating a little bit atm with such a big engine and such cold temperatures...I want to avoid a no start/tow in the morning when my shift ends, if possible...

Any wisdom is appreciated. 

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Install a MB regulator connected directly to your battery, my thoughts .
Cheers Tom.

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24 minutes ago, Tomchri said:

Install a MB regulator connected directly to your battery, my thoughts .
Cheers Tom.

?

At what temperature should I start worrying?

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Lots of PC545 and regulator lore logged here.  The PC545 does have some rather specific charging requirements, per the manufacturer. Link to a lengthy thread, below.

Otherwise, turn the ignition/lights on while you finish putting your helmet and gloves on, before starting. The draw will chemically warm the battery and enhance the start discharge current. I found this totally non-intuitive and hard to accept.

Reality can be like that sometimes.  :mellow:

 

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13 minutes ago, docc said:

Lots of PC545 and regulator lore logged here.  The PC545 does have some rather specific charging requirements, per the manufacturer. Link to a lengthy thread, below.

Otherwise, turn the ignition/lights on while you finish putting your helmet and gloves on, before starting. The draw will chemically warm the battery and enhance the start discharge current. I found this totally non-intuitive and hard to accept.

Reality can be like that sometimes.  :mellow:

 

I love you,  Docc. 

 

Will try that @2am before I depart @430am...fingers crossed!

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Uh, so, I mean just turn the lights on for a minute or so before you get on, start up, and take off. Not a couple hours before.

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30 minutes ago, docc said:

Uh, so, I mean just turn the lights on for a minute or so before you get on, start up, and take off. Not a couple hours before.

No problem.  Will give that a try...

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What l meant was, l have installed 3 now, Shindengen 847 regulators, Much Better. Charging now 14.5 to 14.7 idling. Connects directly to the battery, not going thru 30amp fuse. I like it.

Cheers Tom.

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16 hours ago, VtwinStorm said:

It worked.

Thank you, @docc!!!

Battery light started flickering under 2k RPM on the way home, so now I have to figure that out...hmmm.....

First few things to try:

> Loosen the battery terminals and clean the terminal stack and bolt, apply some Vaseline or (better Caig DeOxit) and make sure they are good'n tight.

> Inspect the 30 amp charging fuse for tightness, damage, or signs of excessive heat.

> Make sure there is a ground wire from the regulator case to the timing chest of the engine.

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On 4/23/2022 at 7:37 AM, VtwinStorm said:

So, I rode to work tonight,  and it's going to dip into 36F.

I charged the battery very quickly before I set off a couple of hours ago.

At what temperature does this Odyssey battery make the V11 harder to start?

I think the CCA is 170...sweating a little bit atm with such a big engine and such cold temperatures...I want to avoid a no start/tow in the morning when my shift ends, if possible...

Any wisdom is appreciated. 

Hey VtwinStorm

Move on from AGM. All you’re doing is lugging an anchor around - & imo the old PC545’s are waaay overrated now.

These have proved to be superior in every way in a V11 - even with Mike Rich HC pistons.

Prismatic cells LiFePO4 battery with BMS (battery management system) is best. 

https://www.batterybusiness.com.au/store/product_detail/ssb-high-performance-lithium-battery-lh7l-bs

Listed as suitable for Bimota 1100 SB6 four cylinder & TM 530 thumper engines - so our relatively lower compression twins are a breeze.

So small - so light - in time any initial disbelieving trust issues just eventually evaporate away!

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Just a note of caution on LiFe batteries.

They may be fine in fact I've got one in a Sporti, but be aware these batteries have lower internal resistance and can absorb and discharge higher currents. This could lead to problems with the Reg/Rec on older bikes.

The Ducati forums were full of guys installing them and then having problems, some more serious than others.

I can't remember off the top of my head but their charging regime is slightly different too.

You can charge them with a conventional charger usually, but any de-sulphation cycle on the charger must be disabled.

Some now have balance circuitry and overvoltage protection built in others not.

If the battery doesn't self balance then a balance charge should be conducted ocassionally.

Over the winter they are best stored at 80% charge, this doesn't mean 80% voltage, you need to get the relevant chart off the manufacturer

Although I've had no problems with mine, I'm just pointing out some of the differences.

If I had the Shindengen 847 like @Tomchri I'd have no hesitation in using one.

They can be great, light, small, faster charging, long life and lots of cold cranking power (except in cold conditions) but just be aware that there are differences in the technology

John

 

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Only LiFePO4. Butch :
Lead's dead, baby. Lead's dead.

“LiFePO4 batteries are the safest of the lithium batteries, because they will not catch fire, and won’t even overheat. Even if you puncture the battery it will not catch fire.

This is a massive upgrade over other lithium batteries, which can overheat and catch fire.

LifePO4 batteries have the safest lithium chemistry. They weigh up to 70% lighter than lead acid batteries.

AGM batteries will do plenty of damage to your wallet, and are at high risk for becoming damaged themselves if you drain them past 50% capacity. Maintaining them can be difficult as well. LiFePO4 Ionic lithium batteries can be discharged completely with no risk of damage.

  • Charge efficiency: a LiFePO4 battery will reach full charge in 2 hours or less. 
  • Self-discharge rate when not in use: Only 2% per month. (Compared to 30% for lead acid batteries).
  • Runtime is higher than lead acid batteries/other lithium batteries.
  • Consistent power: same amount of amperage even when below 50% battery life.
  • No maintenance needed.”

https://lithiumhub.com/lifepo4-batteries-what-they-are-and-why-theyre-the-best/

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20 hours ago, ScuRoo said:

Hey VtwinStorm

Move on from AGM. All you’re doing is lugging an anchor around - & imo the old PC545’s are waaay overrated now.

These have proved to be superior in every way in a V11 - even with Mike Rich HC pistons.

Prismatic cells LiFePO4 battery with BMS (battery management system) is best. 

https://www.batterybusiness.com.au/store/product_detail/ssb-high-performance-lithium-battery-lh7l-bs

Listed as suitable for Bimota 1100 SB6 four cylinder & TM 530 thumper engines - so our relatively lower compression twins are a breeze.

So small - so light - in time any initial disbelieving trust issues just eventually evaporate away!

Problem is, I live in the cold, New England.

I don't live in Italy or Florida.

I like to ride when it is chilly outside.

I bought a Lithium Iron battery for my Triumph 1200, and it was a disaster.

I'd get 3-5 cranks from cold, and almost always..."clack clack clack" of the sprag clutch.

Installed a new Yuasa AGM, fires right up, first time, every time.

Until I get cold start capability, I'm not switching.

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1 hour ago, VtwinStorm said:

Problem is, I live in the cold, New England.

I don't live in Italy or Florida.

I like to ride when it is chilly outside.

I bought a Lithium Iron battery for my Triumph 1200, and it was a disaster.

I'd get 3-5 cranks from cold, and almost always..."clack clack clack" of the sprag clutch.

Installed a new Yuasa AGM, fires right up, first time, every time.

Until I get cold start capability, I'm not switching.

With a LiPo battery in cold climes you need to turn the headlight on for a minute or two before you try and crank the big twin to warm the battery up. This is the accepted process.

Ciao

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  • docc changed the title to PC545 Odyssey...

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