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You know you live in Norway when the winter project starts in July!

Runs strong with 94500km. Paoli handle bars, Roper plate, Jefferies ECU, Omron relays, comes with new clutch, hub,sentering tool, 5th gear repair set, V11 forks, titanium GPR exhaust +++. I better buy a lottery ticket, parts alone easy 20000kr+, everything 35000kr [emoji3]. Yes another IPA. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

I run my Greenie full soft on the front, have rebuilt the rear and stiffer. This combo handles fine for me and minimizes weave when riding around big trucks on the interstate highways 75+ mph, particularly with big HB Jr bags. This bike has wide handlebar conversion, that likely has bearing on it's tendency to weave. The trade off is quick steering in the twisties. I've ridden the bikes on several long distance trips, like from Okla to NC Spineframe deal. Several back and forth to Austin for COTA and Springfield IL Flat Track. I'm considering retiring the Greenie for roadster duty and taking the bag mounts off. I've been riding a lot lately and enjoy it as change from the Ducati.

Quite a collection you've got now Tom! Enjoy mate, but hope you've got enough left in the kitty for the IPA... Cheers Guzzler

Yes I bought a mill. No point going small and limiting yourself. I want to be able to get a set of crankcases on there. Plenty of projects await. I also upgraded my lathe with a European style QC tool post and have a 2 axis DRO awaiting fitment. I have plenty to learn about using both but it's nice to have the ability to do a lot of things I previously had to put on the back burner. It's difficult to find people to machine stuff these days let alone do it right so this gives me some independence. I have a Centauro crank here that's had the pin reground to the first undersize. The pin has been ground tapered and with the wrong radius so the bearing shells rubs on the radius! Phil

From Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans Riders Facebook: Q: So have my bike a day, done 300 km, ive noticed a little bit of oil on top of engine. Under the airbox. Drops down on the right side of the block above the gearbox. I figured it was the crankcase vent piping but although it needs changing doesn't seem to be the cause. The return to the airbox is on the other side of the airbox in relation to where the little puddle of oil is. What can it be from? A1: Look at the hose from the top of gearbox to the spine breather which I replaced and also I flushed the breather thru the frame by taking the big return pipe off at the banjo return to sump EDIT I pushed the kero thru the frame via the banjo near steering head Then i flushed thru with kerosene gun under air pressure to flush all the mayonnaise etc out of frame breather. I caught the old mayonnaise and oil as it came out of frame. Then pushed compressed air thru to blow all kero out etc. New crush washers on the banjo and then I did an oil change A lot of yucky mayonnaise and oil came out of frame. Once clear havent had any issues since Hope this makes sense. It clears out the breathing path from crankcase etc so bike breathes better when vapours circulated A2: when i first got the bike, none of the hoses were attached to the airbox, there was oil leaking all over the left cylinder, from the look of the pictures yours might just be from poor seals or cracked hoses. https://www.facebook.com/groups/129462630430089/permalink/6511112688931686/

Phil, I'm surprised not a single person commented about your vertical mill. I remember you mentioned on a post that you wanted one, but you defiantly went large. That doesn't look like some hobbyist mill. Three phase? Nice and shiny, not used and abused. That precision vise and rotary table your in deep. I can't wait to hear of all the great things that come from that.

Cheers Tom.

The kit arrived but I decided to give it one more shot before the M/C rebuild. I bought a cheap Harbor Freight brake bleeder vacuum. Success in about 6 minutes! I Guess I needed to spend unnecessary money and waste a bunch of time like usual. With the benefit of hindsight, I'm glad I didn't burn the garage down. Thanks Doc

Probably make for some interesting stoppies.....

Just as an update, we're evaluating the costs of restocking these plates; We had them cut at a local laser shop last time, which requires a minimum order (if the material comes in 4x8 sheets like many, that's ~36 pieces) vs. buying cut squares and machining them on our own equipment (much less up-front costs) as we can set up and run one or a hundred as required with only the raw material as overhead. It took 3 years to find homes for 50 pieces, I don't expect demand to increase so unless cost or quantity discount go down, we'll probably take route 2. That comes with a different set of problems, primarily edge finish as Stainless doesn't cut as cleanly as normal steel. Truly, sharp edges don't much matter once installed, but there can be no burrs or bits to interfere with sealing or become loose debris.

As doccs image shows the steps are normal. Makes it easier to remove and install the axle. The steps are only .5mm on the dia where there is no interface with bearings. Phil.

Here is an image of the "slight steps/ridges" of my original rear axle (left) and the same appearance of the new axle (right):

-6C the other day up north, 12C outside now, tomorrow 22C, perfeckt for riding. Cheers Tom.