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the 30 Amp fuse melting is caused by resistance. heat is caused by resistance x the current squared sometimes this will weld the fuse in place. in this case it has melted the plastic, it might have also taken any tension out of the contacts in which case you may have to provide a new fuse holder. I seem to recall this was a common fault when I first started posting on this site years ago and i may have had the problem on my VII Sport

Isn’t that a personal question?

@swooshdave, what is the length of your tang (relative to the wire "lever")?

Yes, I agree... that sounds completely impractical. Your yoga instructor must be very proud. But the wire tang will probably last longer if you deploy by hand and not by foot.

So interesting to watch this development, @swooshdave! Having replaced a couple of the factory wire "levers", I settled on using the broken safety retention washer that failed to retain my gearbox input hub. I'm not sure if that is way-cool or sad&pathetic, but "it is" . . .

Thanks everybody. Sorry, for not explaining everything. Bike 100% original when l bought it. She was running ok, just the 3000rpm hesitation. Went thru EVERYTHING, installed complete new exhaust with Titanium mufflers and ECU, valves 0.2+, just one mouse in my house. Today l took out the TPS, checked again, no glitch, set it to 157mv. Start’s perfect and runs perfect. Me thinks Phil had a point with the regulator. Boy was she running RICH, like an old Volvo with full choke. Fuel fumes for hours upstairs. Mini test ride because of the weather, but no problems compared to the same test ride yesterday. Oh well, always something to learn. Thanks again guys. Cheers Tom.

Fuel pressure regulator stuck closed. I've had the bike sitting for a extended period of time and turned the ignition on and heard the pump prime and labour then a sudden distinctive "pop" as the regulator unsticks itself. You will get away with a rich mixture due to a jammed reg with a cold engine but not when it's warmed up. Phil

https://flic.kr/p/2rcj9ud