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I thought the same thing, narrow engagement point on my '07 Norge, but bleeding the clutch yearly has kept it nice and crisp even as the next ride takes me over 50,000 Miles!

The difference between the red frame bike charging systems and the black frame charging systems. To SamP and all others. The charging system wiring on the red frame bikes has the red/black wire going from the battery (green/black wire) to the F5 , then (blue) to the start relay to the headlight relay and then to the V regulator. ) The wiring on the black frame bikes goes from the battery to the (red/black) headlight relay and then to the V regulator. This looks like the only difference in the wiring diagrams of the charge circuit. The red/black wire goes to the batter through F3. The blue wire goes to the GEN light in the instrument cluster. The two red wires either join ant the connector of the V regulator or join at F3 in the fuse panel. The last two (yellow) go directly to the stator. Wire colors are a suggestion not an edict ! Trivia . The rotor is the rotating field and this is why it is called the rotor. The stator is stationary and this is why it has the name stator.

SamP , have you done anymore about your alternator charging problem ? It has been a couple of days since I have been on and just checking .

I'm on the Craigslist Airhead finds thread on ADV. That led to me finding an R100 RS close to home for a reasonable cost. For now one Goose will do me.

I've been doing glucosamine with MSM for over 20 years. I recently went to a knee doc for mild joint pain and he said it was bone on bone and I needed a replacement. Take from that what you will, but I'm a believer.

That would be this, I reckon. This "when scying TB" was probably supposed to have been "when synching the throttle bodies", I guess. To the first question: whether the engine is warm or not has absolutely no effect on the TPS Voltage. What is really important, as detailed in the thread linked above, is that there is nothing interfering with the throttle body closing completely. Connecting rod disconnected, high idle mechanism disconnected, throttle stop screw all the way out. All that. What makes it difficult to land exactly on the 157 mV is that the business moves a bit when you tighten up the screws. A couple of attempts will show in which direction and how much (approximately) it will move, allowing a better guess at what it should be before tightening. Also, within 2 or 3 mV is close enough, actually. When synching: the bleed screws are, more or less, only relevant at and just off idle. Based on the procedure outline from page 572 onwards in this workshop manual https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf The procedure there is for using the Guzzi diagnosis tool. We're not, so ignore the bit about 3.8°. Disconnect everything from the throttle bodies, and measure the Voltage with the multimeter. Re-connect all the linkages. Close the bleed screws all the way. Using the tool of your choice (vacuum gauges, or whatever) balance the throttle bodies at about 3,000 r.p.m. . Use the bleed screws and said tool of your choice to set the idle speed and balance the throttle bodies at idle. That's a summary. Read the thread in the link above for the full story.

Well after 23 years I sold my V11. It was sad but it went to a good home. This forum has helped me through a lot of v11 issues. Thanks for everything, its been fun

I don't know if the clutch cylinder is the same internally as the V11, but I've had the internal spring break into pieces a couple times. There was excessive lever play and the engagement range was affected ... The last time I found it like this: First time, along with rebuild kit:

I'm going to make some more oneofthesedays.

@Goofman speaks about this stickering business as if there is plausible deniability . . . Happily, the matter met the approval of the cheerful Sp'Honda-Raider . . .

Coming home from the Spine Raid XXI I like to think of the wife and Susan calling me home. It makes the last 500 miles of the trip easier.